hfrick

have mounted heater assemblys under the drivers/and or pasengers seat so the heat blows forward onto the feet and legs (doesnt work that well here in Canadas winter,as turns snow to slush and water) dont think you should often have that as an issue..lol... I havent put forced air heat in my own,but did do driver and passenger upper and lower seat portions heated with low and high options...my wife loves it...I am also really starting to appreciate it even on a cool rainy day/or on the way home after playing in the mud....Hardy

hey Gary...always glad to hear about good customer service..hope you enjoy your new ride...would you mind letting us know what the initial problems were,and what it took to solve them...thanks Hardy

Charlie...what about lowering your diffs in the frame to cut down the angle ...the shaft still only has a certain amount of angle,but you should be able to lift it a couple of inches and still keep axles in thier safe zone..(so far Ive only relocated my rear diff ) primarily to allow for the additional travel with my fox air shocks...Hardy

myself.I think with the miles you are making,once a year is perfect..unless I was driving in extreme cold I dont think I would bother with the synthetic,as at a couple hundred miles regular dino oil should never break down on you...however synthetic wont hurt...I also lube cables in the fall as any waterin there will freeze over winter here...the other thing I do every ride is I carry and spray chain wax on front and rear suspension ,hiem joints steering joints and shock pivot points...really keeps the squeeking down and coats parts from water etc...just my 3 cents...Hardy

the fuel controllers dont always work well right out of the box..they are designed to add fuel ..thats why I like to set them up with an o2 sensor...if you disconnect power to the controller then start it will run the joyner factory fuel map untill you power fuel controller back up

very rare that we need to change plugs in them...not to say never...I would put fresh fuel,then check your fuel pressure ,if that doesnt help,disconnect the ground (or power) to your fuel controller to put back to stock...thats where I would start...Hardy

have had many that need "just a touch" of throttle on start up...as long as it idles well after that,I wouldnt worry...if idles poorly/stalls as well..look at replacing the IAC (idle air control)

Charlie..we drill and tap ours to put in a grease zerk...Hardy

Charlie..I have put some in with "green" bearing retainer loctite..also sometimes can get a "shim" under the snap ring to tighten them up..have also tack welded in place,just make sure the welds go where you can get at them to grind off next ball joint change...oh yea..and put weight on while loctite sets,or while welding...just my 3cents...Hardy

ok,so using that theory..your fuel pump has 2 terminals you can get to with test/alligators clips you should be able to check there for the missing power or ground signal (will only run for a few seconds when you first cycle key)..or ground the terminal at the pump to confirm it is correctly grounded..I will have to think for a bit..but altho it sounds wierd..I think the ignition key signals the computer,the computer then signals the fan relay to cycle,and the fan relay signals the fuel pump..the joyner relays are triggered with 12v pos,,and those relays are dependant on each other

my guess is its a broken horn button on the dash..bigdan..2008 master switches where normally behind the seat,...in mid? 2009 they moved most of them to the dash..the computer case does not have an external ground running to it,but cant hurt to try grounding it..if your ecu was bad,I wouldnt expect it to run at all..but stranger things have happened..the solenoid next to Im guessing rear fuse box? maybe winch control solenoid?

not to sound simple...but did you check that you have power at the key switch and that when turned on is putting 12v (or so) out on I believe its the blue wire...also there should be a master battery switch behind the drivers seat..Ive had them "miss behave" or have broken wires/rings there

the first 2 places I would check,is as Kinarfi and trackguy mentioned....grounds..there is one/couple by the horn up front,and a group of them behind the drivers seat on a transmission/starter bolt..bad grounds can give you all kinds of wierd problems,altho I havent had your exact one...yet...Hardy

I wouldnt try to use the stock relay,or stock light sender...when the light comes on is kinda too late for fan..there are senders that sense off your rad,your coolant hose,or at cylinder head...or install a sender in a T at head or rad..I would use that to trigger new a relay not tied to factory fuse panel ...Hardy

where are you located? once you fill out your profile,or let us know,there is likely someone that can steer you the right way...example..myself Im in Alberta Canada...Hardy

the reason behind shimming/reshimming valves is that with poor air filters ,the dirt and dust grinds away at the valve and seat sometimes causing it to wear and "stay open" with the stock shims,symtoms are normally rough running at idle,blowby and poor compression...often checking clearences and installing thinner shims will allow valve to close...I would have checked more before disassembly ,but,if oil pressure was good and there are no damaged pistons (check ringlands also) and no cylinder damage,myself I would re ring,reassemble and check/adjust valves...Hardy

agreed with always on,you could put in a manual over ride switch and turn on as you feel/monitor is needed (forget and ...) install a temp switch and have it turn on/off thru a new relay automatically...or once you are driving it hard,you will be so busy you will barely notice it is on...Hardy

myself,I would count on pulling the engine out...its not that bad once you get at it..then you can do a proper job of checking,cleaning,sealing etc...Hardy

agreed with Bigdan ...also Quite often you will find loose shock bolts at one or both ends of very stiff sprung shocks..also having stiff front shocks tends to "jarr" or bang the suspension back to the top..there are lots of bolts and joints to bang up there...pay particular attention to the upper and lower balljoint ( the joint itself ,where the joint fits the a arm..and where the pinch bolt joint is) for movement/loose parts...hate to see something come apart ...Hardy

I wouldnt be worried about using chery parts...the engine in the trooper is very well put together..most common problems arise from not changing poor original air filters...or force feeding them with excessive boost with poor fuel control...Hardy

looks like the ones on the current troopers...I would think they will be less prone to bending/breaking

did you happen to take pictures of the modified ones?

dmdc...how did you make out...agreed with Kinarfi as to unbolting fuse block and looking/testing inside as have also found corroded and melted wires and connections on the back side...once repairs are made, recommend try to seal up (weatherproof) fuse box best you can ...Hardy

Kinarfi...same kind of sound when I launched mine in 4 wheel diff lock,and landed hard on the throttle (WHOOOPS) how many miles/kms are you now up to (I thot you where getting up there) how many diffs have you had to repair? thanks Hardy

you wont know for sure untill you pull it out and apart...but it does sound like the unfortunate all to common problem with the earlier troopers,where the the bolts loosened of (or were never tight) and broke teeth off the ring...there is an upgrade to those diffs if done before blowing up...good news is the new replacement diff does have some minor updates including better bolts...also I run my rig in 4x4 all the time in an attempt to share the stresses on both front and rear drivetrain and lock/unlock diffs when I need more ..I am in Canada and Im pretty sure Trevor at Mudslinger.ca can supply your diff...but I imagine you can find one closer to you ...Hardy