hfrick

if its ring and pinion damage I dont believe there is anyone rebuilding...bearings and seals are available..new is currently available,if you fill out the rest of your profile (where are you?) myself or another can likely point you in the closest direction...Hardy ...as a side note just curious how many miles/km on your machine?,when was the last time diffs where serviced? and what happened /lead up to "blowing the diff" ??

compared to electrical connection problems,ecu rarely has/is the problem burnt or melted wires ..corrosion (inside fuse box and/or in wiring harness plug connections) wiring harness damage,and bad grounds..all quite common as most machines typically were not gone over and well sealed from new...these problems are much more common than a failed component on the trooper..not to say that nothing ever fails,generally if fan and pump are not receiving power to cycle on start up,means ecu is not getting power...just my 3 cents...Hardy

was everything working prior to removing starter? is the starter cranking it properly now that you ve changed it? all wires were correctly hooked back up to starter? ..Im not sure what you mean by "fuel switch" ?? maybe main power shutoff??? if the fuel pump and fan are not cycling when you first turn the key to start/run position..and the starter cranks properly..I would start with there being a power/wiring connection problem in the fuse panel behind the drivers seat ..also check ground connections normally found on transmission housing bolt below starter...Hardy

glad to be of help...happy riding...Hardy

jaybird...let us know how you make out...you said fuel pump was/is running...is it showing 50ish # on the gauge?...Hardy

agreed with bigdan..check crank sensor plug in...also double check correct wires are plugged into coil,if I remember correctly the crank sensor plug will reach and plug into the coil and vice versa.. if coil was functioning correctly prior to pulling engine,I would look really good at wiring,grounds etc before changing coils just my 3 cents Hardy

hey Tinman...not sure how much I can help,Ive never run into your situation (yet) I cant think of anything yet that would cause a power "hiccup" only in 1 gear..I would definitely check/change transmission oil and see what that tells you...have had a couple of 3-4 shift forks fail,(not in mine) but that normally would mean a no shift situation (maybe yours bent/cracked???..altho have never seen it)..as for the new joyner output shafts..I dont believe anyones claimed they are "better" however if you choose to install new ones...at least you know they've have 20,000 less miles of stress on them...I too recommend that people run in 4wd most/all of the time..I believe it lessens the amount of stress on the machine(output shafts,u joints,axles etc) ...just my 3 cents...Hardy

depends alot on the terrain you wheel in...for all round riding here,have had really good reviews on the 28" itp blackwaters...just my 3 cents...Hardy

can you post a pic of the broken swingarm...curious as to where/why it broke...and maybe a couple of the new modified ones...thanks...Hardy

got my rad relocate done in the fall,also shortened cage and bed to match...moved lights to where I really have to try to break them off...this spring plan to finally get rear fox shocks in for testing...I will like them,or I will have to order the elkas from mudslinger..thinking about some tunes for while parked,maybe different gauges...and the turbo is always on my mind...Hardy

lets get riding and fixing and modifying...Ill tell you the truth...the Joyner utv forum gets pretty quiet alot of the time...maybe we should post when we have fun,or ideas...not just when we have problems...just my 3 cents...Hardy

Im playing with fox air shocks in the front of mine,have but have not tested fox airs for the rear also...while not cheap,so far the Elka stage 4s on Trevors demo trooper at mudslingers alberta are the nicest Ive driven...and they are bolt in and user/ride style adjustable

so much depends on the use/abuse,maintenance..and initial build/pdi ..we have a customer that has 3 machines in sask.canada that they use for work...meaning they take them into places they do not want to drive their 4x4 pick ups...they have 2 2008s,with I believe,1 with aprox 20,000km (12,500miles) and the other with 43,000km or aprox 26,000 plus miles (as of spring 2014) they also purchased a 2014 to add to their fleet...they work the trooper,give them maintenance and have had to do minor repairs...just saying...myself,airborne in 4wd with both diff locks engaged...I had to put a rear diff in (mines a 2008)

I believe Trevor at Mudslinger Motorsports in Alberta Canada has been and still is selling, servicing ,modifying and stocking/selling parts for joyner products since aprox 2007

I understand,one can adapt anything...any particular reason for the Sante Fe ? gearing matches? input,or output shafts same splines?

not sure what shipping would be like,but check with Mudslinger in Alberta Canada www.mudslinger.ca

where are you located?

also...guess I should have said master cylinders...Hardy

Charlie,its awkward...but if you look where the brake "push rod" goes into the master cylinder,you can see the end of the piston...when the brake pedal is released,the piston should come all the way towards you untill it stops right against the snap ring if it doesnt come all the way back it wont allow fluid into your master from the resevior ...sometimes all it takes is to blow the dirt etc out from the end and work back and forth a little to get piston to come all the way back...just my 3cents...Hardy

sounds like you already know the problem...the input to the heater is the "almost" 5/8 line,not exactly sure where you returned,but sounds right...that circuit kinda bypasses the rad and themostat...the air lock can be a bit#% to get rid of...can you get your core lower (below head /rad upper hose) at least to bleed out air?...even loosen clamp(s) at heater core while running (carefully) to allow air to escape?...just my 3cents...Hardy

t2lizzard ...Trevor at Mudslinger has them on his own/demo turbo trooper..they really work well !!! Ive been playing with fox air shocks on my own trooper and like them much better than the worn out stock ones I had,but so far no comparison to the Elkas...just my 3cents...Hardy

Charlie...your brakes should be 1 master supplys 1 front,and the opposite side rear brake..the other the opposite front/rear combination...kinda like an X ..makes them fun to bleed,normally have to remove 1 of the "push rods",bleed,then switch sides. A common problem is when the master cylinder piston does not return all the way back (up against the circlip) sometimes just cleaning out the "gunk" in the end of the master will allow it to return...bigdan,have done a number of heaters,where did you plumb in and out ? what are you using for a heater ? Hardy

3wheeler...you are looking for a ring and pinion...correct?? 2 scoops I believe is dealing with a broken output shaft in the transmission...have done a few output shafts,but not that many...usually under power airborn,then sudden grip when landing... replaced with stock (agree with Lenny,I leave mine in 4wd except when traveling down the road for an extended period) we also tell our turbo customers to "always" leave in 4wd...as for diffs,priced a front diff for an arctic cat prowler awhile ago...$2040...the trooper ones dont seem so out of line in comparison...just my 3cents...Hardy

not to confuse ...commando pump,low pressure/carburated...trooper and renegades,high pressure/fuel injected...Hardy

I dont see any real benefit to hooking up a scan tool.however wide band fuel ratio can help with tuning your programmer...every machine is a little different,particularly if you ve changed your intake,exaust,snokled etc...getting your trooper enough fuel,without over fueling it can really make a difference from the "1 size fits all" standard setting on the controller,or just guessing/tuning with the seat of the pants performance meter... once you ve tested/adjusted your fuel controller I would normally remove the air fuel gauge and o2 (put a plug in the bung for later)...and keep for tuning if you do other changes down the road...just my 3cents...Hardy