Ben1098

Buzzing sound is probably from the starter solenoid.....kicking in and out. It needs a full 12 Vdc on the coil connections to pull in and hold. Best guess....a bad connection close to the battery heavy cables. Places to check are the battery connections. The ground wire to engine/frame. The heavy battery cables could have a weak connection between the physical copper wires and the end connectors. Use a BULB style 12 V tester probe and stab these points to see where the 12 Vdc is good and then drops out with the start function. What is going on is the bad connection will support enough current for the solenoid at the initial Start sequence. The bad connection limits the current flow when the starter's current draw is greater and the solenoid coil voltage drops out. The example of a weak or discharged battery.......the dash light are OK and light. The headlights may or may NOT be full bright but when you try the starter....they all will cycle with the solenoid buzz.

Go to the front diff. 2 connectors......Key Off......pull both connectors......Key ON....light go out or stay on? Goes out, the front diff switch encoder is in 4WD position. Light stays on, chase a ground in the harness. You need to determine what selection position the front diff RACK slide gear selector in in.......You might possibly be in 4WD all the time. Problems seen were a corn stalk tearing the harness, trash in the switch encoder, busted nubbin o. the rack, Critter eating the wires (insulation). You just have to look see. Info is to help guide in the search for the reason. Raise ALL 4 wheels off the ground on jack stands. N for shift lever position/2WD for diff lock buttons/lever. Turn rear wheels one side at a time....turn together but nothing on the fronts. Repeat on the front wheels for the 2WD position.......fronts turn freely. 3 and 4WD positions.....each front will lock to rear AND with the 4WD locking the fronts together along with the rear. Go underneath Key ON but Motor not running and listen (at the front diff) for the little gear motor's short running time to change for the 2,3,4 selected. If the rack and pinion RACK NUBBIN is busted....it gets tricky to replace and resync the rack position and motor stopped positions. Remove the plastic gear changer housing and look at the rack that slides back and forth (L-Middle-R-) and selects 2,3,4WD functions. Slide the rack with a finger and have someone turn the front wheels to determine if working. Reassy......Easiest to "sorta center the rack position" in the diff. Actually, slightly off center is what you want but I forgot which side to move it about a tooth distance R or L to work the best. Diff oil and O-ring to seal on the housing nose normal care in reassy.

Work backwards from the TB air intake boot. Suspect the critters made a home in the air box or the air filter got wet. If you find an air restriction...great. IF not, you need to give more information as to the running conditions with the air intake reinstalled......running rich?, will it rev up with throttle?, lost the MAP sensor?, etc.

Hate to tell you the "excess loctite" you find is actually sealant. The new installed seal stops oil on the OD of the cupped spline coupler. The inside spline(s) ALSO needs to be sealed. Clean BOTH spline(s) surfaces of ALL crumbs and oil. Goop it up good.....as in using a wooden tooth pick to "wet" the splines. The washer needs a good bead also on BOTH sides and the shaft and cup spline area. Last, it is best to use a new nut as the nut is a "locking thread" that cuts away some of the output shaft threads (and some of the NUT threads). Be generous with the waterproof grease to lube the new cup spline and the driveshaft ball spline.

2012 should be carb. First T/S check is a restricted air intake. Remove the intake tube off the carb. If you have a critter "squatter" in the air box, the restriction of the mouse house will be removed and should clear up. The exhaust will smell rich and be sooty UNTIL the excess fuel in the muffler burns off........will take some run time to "clear". Next is a choke (fuel enrichment) problem and float level. Remove fuel line to carb and seal off. Run until the bowl runs low on fuel and a rich condition will clear up....run good for a short time and decline into the lean spit/pop/ reduced RPM and die. You need to post a image of the carb for which type choke you have. Honda OEM fuel enrichment cables were too short and resulted in a mall amount of excess fuel and kill the plug over several hours.

Been there before. Installed a power steering unit on one. Boss reached thru the steering wheel and about broke his arm on turn on. I opened the unit and scoped the bias circuit....OEM circuit board insertion build error. Replacement had same problem. Info turned over to HiSun. Given a unit by Massimo off of a working SXS and customer happy. That was 4 years ago. Should be a non problem with a new Power steering controller.

Look up some of my old posts on shift issues. The throw from the shifter end is "less than" the required travel to get F N and R. Adjustment of the shift linkage will give F and N....or.....N and R. Look for the post on how to shorted by 1/8" by cuttiing the "bell crank" plate and rewelding to make it shorter.

ICE requires 3 things fuel/air mix, Compression, and Spark. ECM is doing its thing (+12 at both inputs and dual GND(s) AND pick up coil timing pulse) and fuel injector pulsing fuel.......wet plugs. CORRECT fuel/air mixture. Some of the Hisun engines have a "spit" fuel injector which I believe to have been the 2 hole......find new 3 holers to get fuel/air mix to the magic 14:1 ratio. DO a compression test....low compression can be due to: !. Rings worn and scoured (fuel wash down of oil) cylinder wall. Some oil squirt in the spark plug hole will help seal rings and raise compression. 2. Old engine (sitter???) carbon flake gets under and/or between the valve and valve seat....usually the Exhaust....will have excessive valve clearance if not adjusted after carbon capture. Low compression but no real danger to valve. Multi-cyl engine, the running cyl(s) will drag along the dead cyl and then do a hot gas jet cut to the valve face. V cut notch. 3. Worn chain/weak tensioner....gives valve timing JUMPED. Pull lid and TDC the crank and check timing marks. Off a few teeth, poor run or not at all. Way off and the piston has a late night date with one of the valves.....bent valve cannot close....no compression...no run. T/S as follows: Do the above checks. 1, Remove the air filter to TB plumbing......free unrestricted air flow and no possibility of gas fumes from air filter and air filter box. 2. Disconnect the fuel pump connector under pass seat.......no more injector dump fuel. 3. Dry plugs or better yet new spark plugs. Can always use old as spares. 4. Blow shop air into plug hole to dry the cylinder out........drop in the new plug. 5. Starter fluid is now the only source of fuel......carefully give a squirt while cranking over engine......IF lights off, give several semi-auto squirts for a longer run. 6. Engine is OK. Reconnect the air box plumbing. Remove air box lid and be sure air filter is clean and not slop oil soaked. 7. Feed the air filter a 1 sec squirt on the filter body. Restarts and with say a now 5 sec. run and die. 8. Reconnect the fuel pump connector. Back to stock. should start and run if fuel system is OK. If it goes back to it's old ways, injector is a spitter OR 9. Other inputs to ECM is making a rich mixture: IAT-----open and the ECM thinks the air temperature is at the South Pole. MAP combo sensor.......engine load "signal" located in the intake plumbing at the throttle body. It also determined the actual fuel delivery above the internal ECM map and dumps extra fuel....just lick the IAT functions as a "CHOKE". May the T/S Genie be with you BEN

GENERAL ELECTRICAL TEST INFORMATION FOR TESTING POWER AND GROUND CIRCUITS. GEM FOR ALL ELECTRICAL MYSTERY T/S. SAVE AND print out. 6Vdc 12Vdc 24Vdc 36V and 48Vdc (golf carts) 120/120/240Vac 125/208/208/208Vac 125/208/125Vac/240/240/240Vac Added to this problem because his real problem was a high resistance +12Vdc feed to the DELPHI ECM. There are two (2) =12V feeds and two (2) ground feeds. +12V feeds are the ALWAYS HOT and the KEY ON. The fella used one of the them thar new fangled DIGITAL VOM. He could have saved him T/S time if (maybe) if he would have used an ANALOG VOM------- those relics from the past that had a needle meter and scales. The KEY difference is the Digital "sips" power from the circuit under test. The Analog meter requires some electrical power from the circuit under test A LOAD. EXAMPLE of testing load current. WEAK or DISCHARGED BATTERY. You drive an OLDER car that does NOT have the AUTO headlight function. You go to a party and it is raining. Wipers=Headlights. You exit the car and forget the low beam headlights draining your battery. Party over and your car is easy to spot because your's is the only one with YELLOW headligths shining. CRAP! Gonna need a jump. You have to try though. Turn off headlights....dash and dome light are back and bright....small load.....head lights were YELLOW.....bigger load. Now for the real test.....crank over that BIG BLOCK under the hood. You have the solenoid click, Die. Click. Die.l You got the death rattle. GO LOOK FOR A JUMP. The reason for the above story IS an easy to understand electrical T/S problem. It could have just as well been an lightning damaged Phase A MAIN BREAKER in your home. You use your trusty HF $5 Digital meter and have a good solid 120/120/240Vac on the down feed up top. You check breaker buss for A and B and find good 120V if the nothing is running on the circuit. The electric dryer spins the drum (motor is Phase B side) but the clothes won't dry...heating element is a load across A & B......BUT all the house lights that went out and cycled with the wash cycles AND then you started the dryer and the lights are back on to stay. Digital meter says your are GOOD. You have the haunted house. This is based on true stories....Worst was a farmer required 2 visits from Power Company and 3 visits from "electrical repair companies". Called and I drive 90 miles to T/S. Their problem was a water well dead and 300 dairy cows. Running a tandem axle water tanker 24/7 for a week from Mt Vernon. Elapsed time 15 minutes (outside panel by the 7 grain bins were water proof). Used a Digital meter first then my trusty WIGGY. WIGGY is a selenoid movement AC/DC voltage tester.......HUNGRY voltage tester. It presents a load to circuit under test......SPARKS on Disconnect. The problem with the house circuit is dependent on the load presented thru the resistive connection (kink in the water hose) of Phase A. THE TESTING GEM......GO BACK TO THE 70's AND DIG OUT YOUR OLD SNAP-ON OR MAC TOOL TEST LIGHT. The one that had a full sized screw driver handle and stabber probe and the long chord clip for Gnd (and for +12v when chasing Gnd problems). The light bulb doesn't "sip" circuit power like a Digital VOM. FEED ME !!!!!. I had 2 of the probes....one with the stock say 100ma draw on 12v.....AND a second that had the mid 60"s dome light bulb. FEED me BIG TIME. In the above +7v on the purple wire BEFORE the KEY ON (ECM not drawing power to run its output drivers) was +12V....... AFTER the ECU was turned ON (ECM now alive and drawing more than the standby power) he dropped to +7v. Kudos to the fella for catching the change on a ALWAYS HOT full power circuit. The ECM was too much of a load and dropped the supply by half. WITH THE ABOVE LIGHT BULB TEST LIGHTS.................ONE tester WOULD HAVE HAD A DIM GLOW......THE OTHER (DOME LIGHT DRAW WOULD HAVE BEEN DARK. BEN

Make sure you have a IGN PICK UP COIL PULSE SIGNAL AT THE ECM. This pickup coil is located on the stator assembly. The 3 heavy white wires are for the CHARGING SYSTEM feeding the VOLTAGE REGULATOR. The PICK UP COIL comes out as 2 wires going into SHIELDED CABLE. A broken wire (either one) will Kill the IGN PULSE signal. A short of the cable foil (GND) will KILL the pulse. The PICK UP COIL is a heat sensitive part and has thermal die problems. A resistance check back from the ECM should have the spec'd value. Open is a harness problem or OPEN PICK UP COIL. Short is harness or shorted coil. Check at the engine case wire exit for your situation. I have had 2 situations where the starter hot wire was wrapped into the harness TOO CLOSE to the PICK UP SHIELDED CABLE and overwhelmed the WEAK IGN pulse which in turn screwed up the ECM for the TIMING PULSE INPUT. Physical separation is required. In this situation, sometimes the the engine would start IF......the operator released the KEY from START position to RUN position WHICH IN TURN STOPPED ALL THE STARTER CURRENT SPIKES BEING INDUCED INTO THE PICK UP INPUT.......GOOD pulses now and it starts and runs. NOW THE WHY? The machine has run for several years BUT then starts the intermittent NO START problem. The ANSWER.......the starter BRUSHES and ARMATURE COPPER BARS ARE WORN------GENERATES MORE RF NOISE IN THE HARNESS.. REBUILD THE STARTER or best BUY A NEW ONE.

Also check the second GND on BLK Conn P. 9. The ECU is missing an input yet. My guess is the Pick-up Coil (timing pulse) which tells the ECU the motor is turning over. The wire for this signal comes out with the stator charging 3 Phase wires and is a shielded cable. Disconnect at the engine and do a pick-up coil resistance check. OPEN circuit means DEAD. These have a nasty habit of a mystery failure and then "heal" after a short cool down. Since the signal is a thin pulse, you need a Snap-on adapter or a lab scope from an auto shop. The metal tab on the flywheel tickles the pick-up coil....pulse + and then pulse - as the metal tab goes past the central pole of the coil. The signal and "gnd" are fed to the ECU by a shielded cable. These can short down (together) if there is cable damage (smashed) and kill the signal. Also make sure the Al foil wrapped does not short out the signal at the ends at the connectors. You can tape the ends to help...used to standard fare but seems to be lacking on the Chino units. Now for the fuel pump. Do you get the 5 second KEY ON fuel pump run and then shut off? THE ECU will start the fuel pump again when cranked over. Happy hunting.

Best NOT to have in 4WD on pavement. Hard on drive train. OK if on loose dirt or snow. Use rear wheel drive on hard surfaces.

Nothing....weep hole for coolant to escape if the water pump seal fails.....don't end up in the engine oil. Some brands use a small J hose that bugs nest and block off or mud will seal over....which is not good.

The main trick is tilting the front end up. Block the rear wheels and jack up the front end at least a foot. A convenient ditch works well also.....rear wheels in a shallow ditch. The head bleeder screw should be opened. With the engine NOT running, almost fill the radiator (leave some air to avoid a mess) and burp (squeeze the lower hose line before the metal tube at the engine base passenger side floor area). Watch the radiator and the the bleeder. With the radiator "higher" than the head bleeder, the air should be bled and coolant dribble out. Close the bleeder and refill radiator (your clue you displaced the air with coolant) and start the engine. Burp more while running and if you get the circulation going the hoses will warm up. More bubbles should surface at the radiator filler neck. Shut off engine. Open bleeder and release any air in the head. The puke jug needs to be filled about an inch above the full cold line. Use a shop towel as a "seal"and use an air nozzle to SLIGHTLY pressurize the puke tank removing the air from the tubing line to the radiator neck. Then the radiator starts to overflow, a third hand can install the radiator cap. Run the engine and determine the head and hoses are at the close to the same temperature (as in warming up) through out the system. IR temp gun....fairly cheap now....can get real numbers. Scan the radiator, hoses, cylinder and head.....if all close you are done. Recheck fluids when done riding. Recheck the bleeder and top off the puke jug as required.

I was under the impression the machine was tore down and you were installing the cams. I start with the completely assembled engine and how to check the cam timing. Determine the direction of rotation of the crank. The crank pin is NOT offset. Both rods are on the single crank pin. Rocker cover is off. Spark plugs OUT. Use a copper wire about a foot long and insert into the FRONT cylinder spark plug hole. Rotate the crank in the forward direction. Observe the copper wire as to IF going UP or DN. If going Dn keep rotating until it is going UP (heading back up) is the piston coming up toward TDC. When close to TDC, the wire will stop moving....STALL.....and then head back down. Rotate backwards to TDC. The exact TDC is in the middle of the STALL. Rotate the crank back and forth and note first movement points where the copper wire starts to go DN on both sides.....go to the center of these two points is TDC..................Could be Compression or OVERLAP. HOW TO DETERMINE IF THE CAM IS IN THE OVERLAP OR COMPRESSION TDC position. Look at the rocker arms.......If on Compression, the cam lobes will be DOWN and if cool, some looseness (spec'd Valve clearance). If on OVERLAP, the lobes will be UP (EX valve just closing and the IN valve just opening) AND with the rockers TIGHT and NO valve clearance. Look for the timing marks on the crank and case.......clean and put a paint dot to indicate TDC for the front cylinder. If having a problem, I have used the drive pulley to make and mark some timing marks. Position the crank to the marked TDC timing marks and in the CAM timing mark in the desired Compression position. Pull the copper wire and go to the REAR cylinder. Rotate the crank in the same forward direction. The TDC and Compression should be in about 270 deg. I looked at the engine and it is a 90 deg V-Twin. Check the cam lobes and rocker as before like the Front cylinder. The cam phasing has to have the greatest CRANK angle between the pair of their TDC between Front and Rear COMPRESSION positions......this is the smoothest power stroke configuration. When doing the reasssembly, set the Front cylinder TDC/Compression and rotate the crank forward to check for the 270 deg. between FT to RR. If not, it will be 90 deg....not wanted and the cam will loaded with rocker contact on the lobes. To fix, rotate the crank another 360 deg with the cam doing 180 deg and into the OVERLAP position. Unhook the cam chain and rotate the crank again 360 deg and reattach the cam chain....tensioner reinstall. Check again for the timing FT to RR for 270 deg rotation between the the OVERLAP positions of the cams.