Ben1098

you don't mention the outside air temp humidity dew points. Your Kohler engine model wants to ice up the throttle body in cold weather and even has an adjustable air intake scoop for cold air summer and heated (muffler) air winter. Thermal (temperature changes the operation characteristics) problems have the "delay" your describe. Old tractors and trucks/cars would have the outside carb body all frosted up with the correct cold wet snowy conditions. Look at the throttle body and see if you can find a FROSTY correlation to the problem. Try some straight gasoline (no Ethanol). Nothing runs good on that E85 in cold weather. We have had stations add water to the ethanol blended gas and then have the phase separation catch them with a slop unburnable bottom at the fuel pick up level. Runs fine, get a fill up and your are dead on road or barely keep it running.

above steps are right on BUT to make the job easier AND QUICKER...beat the book------------bleed the air from the overflow line (hose) to the puke jug. 1. Fill the puke jug above the cold line by about an inch with straight antifreeze......no mix.....with the hose connected between the puke jug and radiator neck 2. fill the radiator fill neck one last time to the top. Will try to drain back into the puke jug........normal 3. seal the tank lid along with an added air hose with a shop towel and blow air (lung power is just fine---you don't want a fountain for the neighborhood cats to lap up---- into the puke jug........forces the coolant up into the radiator filler neck. 4. When the bubbles stop and the concentrated antifreeze swirls into the filler neck.....maintain pressure and then install the radiator cap. no drain down of antifreeze. 5. release air pressure and remove the sealing shop rag and hose tubing....... install the puke tank lid. This saves the time wasted on having to heat cycle multiple times to purge the line to the puke jug. chow.

Don't know your machine BUT you described the broken off exhaust pipe tip "with the sensor still attached and connected". This have 4 wires and looks like an O2 sensor? If so, your ECM doesn't know the fuel air ratio (amount of O2 in the exhaust) with it reading open air O2 content and mapping to the wrong injection pulse width (amount of fuel). That said.....reattach the tip and seal good enough so that no free air (O2) enters downstream before the O2? sensor. Might want to undo the fuel pressure bump up and check again. Some of the different O2 sensor vendors for the HiSun variants had problems......e.g. 2 hole vs 3 hole and had erratic runability problems with everything else working AOK. Even had some new junkers right out of the bag.

First, you need to confirm that the fuel level in the carb is low and/or the gas has "cooked off" the good stuff and won't start on what dead fuel is left. Simple test: Fuel bleed down problem OR having to look at possible carb issues. Disconnect the fuel line at the carb and cap (you don't want a pumped fuel leak here if it fires off and starts running). Your machine "should" have the mini fuel tank that is mounted on the heat shield behind the seat. If the tank has indeed bled down, no fuel will run out. There is a post from "DOC" that had the hose diagram hook up connections. Buy or make a hanging test tank to now supply the good/new fuel to the the carb. Let bowl fill for say 10 sec. Crank over engine. If the engine fires right up, you have a drain down problem. Also, while running, check if the fuel pump is indeed pulsing fuel to the mini tank and has refilled it. From your description, it is working AFTER it gets running. Fuel will flow out when un-capped if it is working AOK. Catch can and rag use here for safety. FIX OPTIONS: BE SURE THERE IS NO WATER OR PHASE SEPARATED OH FUEL IN TANK BOTTOM. Cheapest (but not the best) is to buy a "foot valve" type intake fuel pick up "gumdrop" with a screen and install on the bottom of the in-tank pick up line. Check the NEW dip tube length because you DO NOT want the gum drop rubbing a hole in the bottom of the plastic fuel tank. Found a major mower OEM had this condition from the factory.....BAD. Your machine may have already been fitted with a fuel tank bottom dip tube intake filter.....they sometimes get choked off. The foot valve gumdrop pick up filter includes a spring loaded check valve ball to make it a one-way valve (check or foot using the water well plumbing term). Fuel cannot now bleed down back into the fuel tank with gravity.....only evaporate from the carb bowl. MY FAVORITE FIX: Electric fuel pump.....low pressure version NOT FI. WHY???? Many reasons!!!! 1. Ultimate fix for gas golf carts,...gas pedal to start cranking. Grasshopper (Kubota 3 banger w\ mechanical fuel pump---COST to replace OEM, and other machines with the cheaper pulse type fuel pump (run one dry and then you have to puff up the fuel tank and fuel lines to get fuel back up to the stock cheaper pulse pump again-----THEY DON'T PUMP AIR. Example...My neighbor was mowing and run out of gas on his mega buck GREEN mower.....even filling the fender fuel tank was not enough to prime...portable air tank/detach fuel line to pump/ to the rescue. 2. Switch off the electric fuel pump when finished mowing/riding and "run down" carb bowl fuel level to a "fast idle up"---lean mix---the carb bowl fuel now is almost empty. When used the next time, turn on the IGN and the added fuel pump switch.....wait for the pump hum/thump to change sound and by golly, the carb bowl is full of new fuel (not cooked off crap) and ready to run. 3. This dates me some, but 50's GM 6 banger/1 bbl Rochester had a flooding problem in the Spring time. Cold fuel in gas tank from overnight. Drive to town (couple miles). Load some feed. Come back out to go back home and the winter blended gas cooked off and expanded and overflowed into the intake manifold. Reason was the cold carb from fuel tank and it's normal damp cold icing problem....fuel now warms up because it is also sitting above the adjacent HOT exhaust manifold runners. You would have to lift off the carb and soak up the liquid gas with a rag inside the intake manifold. Drain the carb by dumping over and out the atmospheric vent. Reinstall and cap the fuel filter inlet and do a WOT and pray the plugs weren't TOO WET for your 6 Volt system.......Oh! the good old days. I have had "enclosed motor" mowers do the same thing by wetting down a less than clean burning plug. Not good when there is only one plug. AS for the mini fuel tank mounted behind the seat, it has problems supplying fuel to the carb IF you are climbing a steep bank or long hill. Not enough head pressure for the increased fuel demand for the hard pull. Electric fuel pump helps here also as the "over pressure" is vented back to the intake side and the mini tank is no longer required.

All Balls CV Boot Kit......sold by MOTOSPORTS on line. Need model and year for the correct boot kit. I don't know if the 6 finger spreader tool is still available. Seen some cone type spreaders also (manual). You also need a banding tool to tighten the 2 ribbon band on both ends of the boot. CONTACT 866-667-6288

Just by the looks, notice the clean and corrosion areas of the tube. Suggests that the bolt was used with a rubber bushing mount......like a shock of possibly a suspension rubber cushioned A-arm. My guess is there are more of them......look for their sisters under there. If any found, check their torque also so you don't find more down the road.

Buzzing sound is probably from the starter solenoid.....kicking in and out. It needs a full 12 Vdc on the coil connections to pull in and hold. Best guess....a bad connection close to the battery heavy cables. Places to check are the battery connections. The ground wire to engine/frame. The heavy battery cables could have a weak connection between the physical copper wires and the end connectors. Use a BULB style 12 V tester probe and stab these points to see where the 12 Vdc is good and then drops out with the start function. What is going on is the bad connection will support enough current for the solenoid at the initial Start sequence. The bad connection limits the current flow when the starter's current draw is greater and the solenoid coil voltage drops out. The example of a weak or discharged battery.......the dash light are OK and light. The headlights may or may NOT be full bright but when you try the starter....they all will cycle with the solenoid buzz.

Go to the front diff. 2 connectors......Key Off......pull both connectors......Key ON....light go out or stay on? Goes out, the front diff switch encoder is in 4WD position. Light stays on, chase a ground in the harness. You need to determine what selection position the front diff RACK slide gear selector in in.......You might possibly be in 4WD all the time. Problems seen were a corn stalk tearing the harness, trash in the switch encoder, busted nubbin o. the rack, Critter eating the wires (insulation). You just have to look see. Info is to help guide in the search for the reason. Raise ALL 4 wheels off the ground on jack stands. N for shift lever position/2WD for diff lock buttons/lever. Turn rear wheels one side at a time....turn together but nothing on the fronts. Repeat on the front wheels for the 2WD position.......fronts turn freely. 3 and 4WD positions.....each front will lock to rear AND with the 4WD locking the fronts together along with the rear. Go underneath Key ON but Motor not running and listen (at the front diff) for the little gear motor's short running time to change for the 2,3,4 selected. If the rack and pinion RACK NUBBIN is busted....it gets tricky to replace and resync the rack position and motor stopped positions. Remove the plastic gear changer housing and look at the rack that slides back and forth (L-Middle-R-) and selects 2,3,4WD functions. Slide the rack with a finger and have someone turn the front wheels to determine if working. Reassy......Easiest to "sorta center the rack position" in the diff. Actually, slightly off center is what you want but I forgot which side to move it about a tooth distance R or L to work the best. Diff oil and O-ring to seal on the housing nose normal care in reassy.

Work backwards from the TB air intake boot. Suspect the critters made a home in the air box or the air filter got wet. If you find an air restriction...great. IF not, you need to give more information as to the running conditions with the air intake reinstalled......running rich?, will it rev up with throttle?, lost the MAP sensor?, etc.

Hate to tell you the "excess loctite" you find is actually sealant. The new installed seal stops oil on the OD of the cupped spline coupler. The inside spline(s) ALSO needs to be sealed. Clean BOTH spline(s) surfaces of ALL crumbs and oil. Goop it up good.....as in using a wooden tooth pick to "wet" the splines. The washer needs a good bead also on BOTH sides and the shaft and cup spline area. Last, it is best to use a new nut as the nut is a "locking thread" that cuts away some of the output shaft threads (and some of the NUT threads). Be generous with the waterproof grease to lube the new cup spline and the driveshaft ball spline.

2012 should be carb. First T/S check is a restricted air intake. Remove the intake tube off the carb. If you have a critter "squatter" in the air box, the restriction of the mouse house will be removed and should clear up. The exhaust will smell rich and be sooty UNTIL the excess fuel in the muffler burns off........will take some run time to "clear". Next is a choke (fuel enrichment) problem and float level. Remove fuel line to carb and seal off. Run until the bowl runs low on fuel and a rich condition will clear up....run good for a short time and decline into the lean spit/pop/ reduced RPM and die. You need to post a image of the carb for which type choke you have. Honda OEM fuel enrichment cables were too short and resulted in a mall amount of excess fuel and kill the plug over several hours.

Been there before. Installed a power steering unit on one. Boss reached thru the steering wheel and about broke his arm on turn on. I opened the unit and scoped the bias circuit....OEM circuit board insertion build error. Replacement had same problem. Info turned over to HiSun. Given a unit by Massimo off of a working SXS and customer happy. That was 4 years ago. Should be a non problem with a new Power steering controller.

Look up some of my old posts on shift issues. The throw from the shifter end is "less than" the required travel to get F N and R. Adjustment of the shift linkage will give F and N....or.....N and R. Look for the post on how to shorted by 1/8" by cuttiing the "bell crank" plate and rewelding to make it shorter.

ICE requires 3 things fuel/air mix, Compression, and Spark. ECM is doing its thing (+12 at both inputs and dual GND(s) AND pick up coil timing pulse) and fuel injector pulsing fuel.......wet plugs. CORRECT fuel/air mixture. Some of the Hisun engines have a "spit" fuel injector which I believe to have been the 2 hole......find new 3 holers to get fuel/air mix to the magic 14:1 ratio. DO a compression test....low compression can be due to: !. Rings worn and scoured (fuel wash down of oil) cylinder wall. Some oil squirt in the spark plug hole will help seal rings and raise compression. 2. Old engine (sitter???) carbon flake gets under and/or between the valve and valve seat....usually the Exhaust....will have excessive valve clearance if not adjusted after carbon capture. Low compression but no real danger to valve. Multi-cyl engine, the running cyl(s) will drag along the dead cyl and then do a hot gas jet cut to the valve face. V cut notch. 3. Worn chain/weak tensioner....gives valve timing JUMPED. Pull lid and TDC the crank and check timing marks. Off a few teeth, poor run or not at all. Way off and the piston has a late night date with one of the valves.....bent valve cannot close....no compression...no run. T/S as follows: Do the above checks. 1, Remove the air filter to TB plumbing......free unrestricted air flow and no possibility of gas fumes from air filter and air filter box. 2. Disconnect the fuel pump connector under pass seat.......no more injector dump fuel. 3. Dry plugs or better yet new spark plugs. Can always use old as spares. 4. Blow shop air into plug hole to dry the cylinder out........drop in the new plug. 5. Starter fluid is now the only source of fuel......carefully give a squirt while cranking over engine......IF lights off, give several semi-auto squirts for a longer run. 6. Engine is OK. Reconnect the air box plumbing. Remove air box lid and be sure air filter is clean and not slop oil soaked. 7. Feed the air filter a 1 sec squirt on the filter body. Restarts and with say a now 5 sec. run and die. 8. Reconnect the fuel pump connector. Back to stock. should start and run if fuel system is OK. If it goes back to it's old ways, injector is a spitter OR 9. Other inputs to ECM is making a rich mixture: IAT-----open and the ECM thinks the air temperature is at the South Pole. MAP combo sensor.......engine load "signal" located in the intake plumbing at the throttle body. It also determined the actual fuel delivery above the internal ECM map and dumps extra fuel....just lick the IAT functions as a "CHOKE". May the T/S Genie be with you BEN

GENERAL ELECTRICAL TEST INFORMATION FOR TESTING POWER AND GROUND CIRCUITS. GEM FOR ALL ELECTRICAL MYSTERY T/S. SAVE AND print out. 6Vdc 12Vdc 24Vdc 36V and 48Vdc (golf carts) 120/120/240Vac 125/208/208/208Vac 125/208/125Vac/240/240/240Vac Added to this problem because his real problem was a high resistance +12Vdc feed to the DELPHI ECM. There are two (2) =12V feeds and two (2) ground feeds. +12V feeds are the ALWAYS HOT and the KEY ON. The fella used one of the them thar new fangled DIGITAL VOM. He could have saved him T/S time if (maybe) if he would have used an ANALOG VOM------- those relics from the past that had a needle meter and scales. The KEY difference is the Digital "sips" power from the circuit under test. The Analog meter requires some electrical power from the circuit under test A LOAD. EXAMPLE of testing load current. WEAK or DISCHARGED BATTERY. You drive an OLDER car that does NOT have the AUTO headlight function. You go to a party and it is raining. Wipers=Headlights. You exit the car and forget the low beam headlights draining your battery. Party over and your car is easy to spot because your's is the only one with YELLOW headligths shining. CRAP! Gonna need a jump. You have to try though. Turn off headlights....dash and dome light are back and bright....small load.....head lights were YELLOW.....bigger load. Now for the real test.....crank over that BIG BLOCK under the hood. You have the solenoid click, Die. Click. Die.l You got the death rattle. GO LOOK FOR A JUMP. The reason for the above story IS an easy to understand electrical T/S problem. It could have just as well been an lightning damaged Phase A MAIN BREAKER in your home. You use your trusty HF $5 Digital meter and have a good solid 120/120/240Vac on the down feed up top. You check breaker buss for A and B and find good 120V if the nothing is running on the circuit. The electric dryer spins the drum (motor is Phase B side) but the clothes won't dry...heating element is a load across A & B......BUT all the house lights that went out and cycled with the wash cycles AND then you started the dryer and the lights are back on to stay. Digital meter says your are GOOD. You have the haunted house. This is based on true stories....Worst was a farmer required 2 visits from Power Company and 3 visits from "electrical repair companies". Called and I drive 90 miles to T/S. Their problem was a water well dead and 300 dairy cows. Running a tandem axle water tanker 24/7 for a week from Mt Vernon. Elapsed time 15 minutes (outside panel by the 7 grain bins were water proof). Used a Digital meter first then my trusty WIGGY. WIGGY is a selenoid movement AC/DC voltage tester.......HUNGRY voltage tester. It presents a load to circuit under test......SPARKS on Disconnect. The problem with the house circuit is dependent on the load presented thru the resistive connection (kink in the water hose) of Phase A. THE TESTING GEM......GO BACK TO THE 70's AND DIG OUT YOUR OLD SNAP-ON OR MAC TOOL TEST LIGHT. The one that had a full sized screw driver handle and stabber probe and the long chord clip for Gnd (and for +12v when chasing Gnd problems). The light bulb doesn't "sip" circuit power like a Digital VOM. FEED ME !!!!!. I had 2 of the probes....one with the stock say 100ma draw on 12v.....AND a second that had the mid 60"s dome light bulb. FEED me BIG TIME. In the above +7v on the purple wire BEFORE the KEY ON (ECM not drawing power to run its output drivers) was +12V....... AFTER the ECU was turned ON (ECM now alive and drawing more than the standby power) he dropped to +7v. Kudos to the fella for catching the change on a ALWAYS HOT full power circuit. The ECM was too much of a load and dropped the supply by half. WITH THE ABOVE LIGHT BULB TEST LIGHTS.................ONE tester WOULD HAVE HAD A DIM GLOW......THE OTHER (DOME LIGHT DRAW WOULD HAVE BEEN DARK. BEN