Ben1098

Buzzing sound is probably from the starter solenoid.....kicking in and out. It needs a full 12 Vdc on the coil connections to pull in and hold. Best guess....a bad connection close to the battery heavy cables. Places to check are the battery connections. The ground wire to engine/frame. The heavy battery cables could have a weak connection between the physical copper wires and the end connectors. Use a BULB style 12 V tester probe and stab these points to see where the 12 Vdc is good and then drops out with the start function. What is going on is the bad connection will support enough current for the solenoid at the initial Start sequence. The bad connection limits the current flow when the starter's current draw is greater and the solenoid coil voltage drops out. The example of a weak or discharged battery.......the dash light are OK and light. The headlights may or may NOT be full bright but when you try the starter....they all will cycle with the solenoid buzz.

Go to the front diff. 2 connectors......Key Off......pull both connectors......Key ON....light go out or stay on? Goes out, the front diff switch encoder is in 4WD position. Light stays on, chase a ground in the harness. You need to determine what selection position the front diff RACK slide gear selector in in.......You might possibly be in 4WD all the time. Problems seen were a corn stalk tearing the harness, trash in the switch encoder, busted nubbin o. the rack, Critter eating the wires (insulation). You just have to look see. Info is to help guide in the search for the reason. Raise ALL 4 wheels off the ground on jack stands. N for shift lever position/2WD for diff lock buttons/lever. Turn rear wheels one side at a time....turn together but nothing on the fronts. Repeat on the front wheels for the 2WD position.......fronts turn freely. 3 and 4WD positions.....each front will lock to rear AND with the 4WD locking the fronts together along with the rear. Go underneath Key ON but Motor not running and listen (at the front diff) for the little gear motor's short running time to change for the 2,3,4 selected. If the rack and pinion RACK NUBBIN is busted....it gets tricky to replace and resync the rack position and motor stopped positions. Remove the plastic gear changer housing and look at the rack that slides back and forth (L-Middle-R-) and selects 2,3,4WD functions. Slide the rack with a finger and have someone turn the front wheels to determine if working. Reassy......Easiest to "sorta center the rack position" in the diff. Actually, slightly off center is what you want but I forgot which side to move it about a tooth distance R or L to work the best. Diff oil and O-ring to seal on the housing nose normal care in reassy.

Work backwards from the TB air intake boot. Suspect the critters made a home in the air box or the air filter got wet. If you find an air restriction...great. IF not, you need to give more information as to the running conditions with the air intake reinstalled......running rich?, will it rev up with throttle?, lost the MAP sensor?, etc.

Hate to tell you the "excess loctite" you find is actually sealant. The new installed seal stops oil on the OD of the cupped spline coupler. The inside spline(s) ALSO needs to be sealed. Clean BOTH spline(s) surfaces of ALL crumbs and oil. Goop it up good.....as in using a wooden tooth pick to "wet" the splines. The washer needs a good bead also on BOTH sides and the shaft and cup spline area. Last, it is best to use a new nut as the nut is a "locking thread" that cuts away some of the output shaft threads (and some of the NUT threads). Be generous with the waterproof grease to lube the new cup spline and the driveshaft ball spline.

2012 should be carb. First T/S check is a restricted air intake. Remove the intake tube off the carb. If you have a critter "squatter" in the air box, the restriction of the mouse house will be removed and should clear up. The exhaust will smell rich and be sooty UNTIL the excess fuel in the muffler burns off........will take some run time to "clear". Next is a choke (fuel enrichment) problem and float level. Remove fuel line to carb and seal off. Run until the bowl runs low on fuel and a rich condition will clear up....run good for a short time and decline into the lean spit/pop/ reduced RPM and die. You need to post a image of the carb for which type choke you have. Honda OEM fuel enrichment cables were too short and resulted in a mall amount of excess fuel and kill the plug over several hours.

Been there before. Installed a power steering unit on one. Boss reached thru the steering wheel and about broke his arm on turn on. I opened the unit and scoped the bias circuit....OEM circuit board insertion build error. Replacement had same problem. Info turned over to HiSun. Given a unit by Massimo off of a working SXS and customer happy. That was 4 years ago. Should be a non problem with a new Power steering controller.

Look up some of my old posts on shift issues. The throw from the shifter end is "less than" the required travel to get F N and R. Adjustment of the shift linkage will give F and N....or.....N and R. Look for the post on how to shorted by 1/8" by cuttiing the "bell crank" plate and rewelding to make it shorter.

ICE requires 3 things fuel/air mix, Compression, and Spark. ECM is doing its thing (+12 at both inputs and dual GND(s) AND pick up coil timing pulse) and fuel injector pulsing fuel.......wet plugs. CORRECT fuel/air mixture. Some of the Hisun engines have a "spit" fuel injector which I believe to have been the 2 hole......find new 3 holers to get fuel/air mix to the magic 14:1 ratio. DO a compression test....low compression can be due to: !. Rings worn and scoured (fuel wash down of oil) cylinder wall. Some oil squirt in the spark plug hole will help seal rings and raise compression. 2. Old engine (sitter???) carbon flake gets under and/or between the valve and valve seat....usually the Exhaust....will have excessive valve clearance if not adjusted after carbon capture. Low compression but no real danger to valve. Multi-cyl engine, the running cyl(s) will drag along the dead cyl and then do a hot gas jet cut to the valve face. V cut notch. 3. Worn chain/weak tensioner....gives valve timing JUMPED. Pull lid and TDC the crank and check timing marks. Off a few teeth, poor run or not at all. Way off and the piston has a late night date with one of the valves.....bent valve cannot close....no compression...no run. T/S as follows: Do the above checks. 1, Remove the air filter to TB plumbing......free unrestricted air flow and no possibility of gas fumes from air filter and air filter box. 2. Disconnect the fuel pump connector under pass seat.......no more injector dump fuel. 3. Dry plugs or better yet new spark plugs. Can always use old as spares. 4. Blow shop air into plug hole to dry the cylinder out........drop in the new plug. 5. Starter fluid is now the only source of fuel......carefully give a squirt while cranking over engine......IF lights off, give several semi-auto squirts for a longer run. 6. Engine is OK. Reconnect the air box plumbing. Remove air box lid and be sure air filter is clean and not slop oil soaked. 7. Feed the air filter a 1 sec squirt on the filter body. Restarts and with say a now 5 sec. run and die. 8. Reconnect the fuel pump connector. Back to stock. should start and run if fuel system is OK. If it goes back to it's old ways, injector is a spitter OR 9. Other inputs to ECM is making a rich mixture: IAT-----open and the ECM thinks the air temperature is at the South Pole. MAP combo sensor.......engine load "signal" located in the intake plumbing at the throttle body. It also determined the actual fuel delivery above the internal ECM map and dumps extra fuel....just lick the IAT functions as a "CHOKE". May the T/S Genie be with you BEN

GENERAL ELECTRICAL TEST INFORMATION FOR TESTING POWER AND GROUND CIRCUITS. GEM FOR ALL ELECTRICAL MYSTERY T/S. SAVE AND print out. 6Vdc 12Vdc 24Vdc 36V and 48Vdc (golf carts) 120/120/240Vac 125/208/208/208Vac 125/208/125Vac/240/240/240Vac Added to this problem because his real problem was a high resistance +12Vdc feed to the DELPHI ECM. There are two (2) =12V feeds and two (2) ground feeds. +12V feeds are the ALWAYS HOT and the KEY ON. The fella used one of the them thar new fangled DIGITAL VOM. He could have saved him T/S time if (maybe) if he would have used an ANALOG VOM------- those relics from the past that had a needle meter and scales. The KEY difference is the Digital "sips" power from the circuit under test. The Analog meter requires some electrical power from the circuit under test A LOAD. EXAMPLE of testing load current. WEAK or DISCHARGED BATTERY. You drive an OLDER car that does NOT have the AUTO headlight function. You go to a party and it is raining. Wipers=Headlights. You exit the car and forget the low beam headlights draining your battery. Party over and your car is easy to spot because your's is the only one with YELLOW headligths shining. CRAP! Gonna need a jump. You have to try though. Turn off headlights....dash and dome light are back and bright....small load.....head lights were YELLOW.....bigger load. Now for the real test.....crank over that BIG BLOCK under the hood. You have the solenoid click, Die. Click. Die.l You got the death rattle. GO LOOK FOR A JUMP. The reason for the above story IS an easy to understand electrical T/S problem. It could have just as well been an lightning damaged Phase A MAIN BREAKER in your home. You use your trusty HF $5 Digital meter and have a good solid 120/120/240Vac on the down feed up top. You check breaker buss for A and B and find good 120V if the nothing is running on the circuit. The electric dryer spins the drum (motor is Phase B side) but the clothes won't dry...heating element is a load across A & B......BUT all the house lights that went out and cycled with the wash cycles AND then you started the dryer and the lights are back on to stay. Digital meter says your are GOOD. You have the haunted house. This is based on true stories....Worst was a farmer required 2 visits from Power Company and 3 visits from "electrical repair companies". Called and I drive 90 miles to T/S. Their problem was a water well dead and 300 dairy cows. Running a tandem axle water tanker 24/7 for a week from Mt Vernon. Elapsed time 15 minutes (outside panel by the 7 grain bins were water proof). Used a Digital meter first then my trusty WIGGY. WIGGY is a selenoid movement AC/DC voltage tester.......HUNGRY voltage tester. It presents a load to circuit under test......SPARKS on Disconnect. The problem with the house circuit is dependent on the load presented thru the resistive connection (kink in the water hose) of Phase A. THE TESTING GEM......GO BACK TO THE 70's AND DIG OUT YOUR OLD SNAP-ON OR MAC TOOL TEST LIGHT. The one that had a full sized screw driver handle and stabber probe and the long chord clip for Gnd (and for +12v when chasing Gnd problems). The light bulb doesn't "sip" circuit power like a Digital VOM. FEED ME !!!!!. I had 2 of the probes....one with the stock say 100ma draw on 12v.....AND a second that had the mid 60"s dome light bulb. FEED me BIG TIME. In the above +7v on the purple wire BEFORE the KEY ON (ECM not drawing power to run its output drivers) was +12V....... AFTER the ECU was turned ON (ECM now alive and drawing more than the standby power) he dropped to +7v. Kudos to the fella for catching the change on a ALWAYS HOT full power circuit. The ECM was too much of a load and dropped the supply by half. WITH THE ABOVE LIGHT BULB TEST LIGHTS.................ONE tester WOULD HAVE HAD A DIM GLOW......THE OTHER (DOME LIGHT DRAW WOULD HAVE BEEN DARK. BEN

Make sure you have a IGN PICK UP COIL PULSE SIGNAL AT THE ECM. This pickup coil is located on the stator assembly. The 3 heavy white wires are for the CHARGING SYSTEM feeding the VOLTAGE REGULATOR. The PICK UP COIL comes out as 2 wires going into SHIELDED CABLE. A broken wire (either one) will Kill the IGN PULSE signal. A short of the cable foil (GND) will KILL the pulse. The PICK UP COIL is a heat sensitive part and has thermal die problems. A resistance check back from the ECM should have the spec'd value. Open is a harness problem or OPEN PICK UP COIL. Short is harness or shorted coil. Check at the engine case wire exit for your situation. I have had 2 situations where the starter hot wire was wrapped into the harness TOO CLOSE to the PICK UP SHIELDED CABLE and overwhelmed the WEAK IGN pulse which in turn screwed up the ECM for the TIMING PULSE INPUT. Physical separation is required. In this situation, sometimes the the engine would start IF......the operator released the KEY from START position to RUN position WHICH IN TURN STOPPED ALL THE STARTER CURRENT SPIKES BEING INDUCED INTO THE PICK UP INPUT.......GOOD pulses now and it starts and runs. NOW THE WHY? The machine has run for several years BUT then starts the intermittent NO START problem. The ANSWER.......the starter BRUSHES and ARMATURE COPPER BARS ARE WORN------GENERATES MORE RF NOISE IN THE HARNESS.. REBUILD THE STARTER or best BUY A NEW ONE.

Also check the second GND on BLK Conn P. 9. The ECU is missing an input yet. My guess is the Pick-up Coil (timing pulse) which tells the ECU the motor is turning over. The wire for this signal comes out with the stator charging 3 Phase wires and is a shielded cable. Disconnect at the engine and do a pick-up coil resistance check. OPEN circuit means DEAD. These have a nasty habit of a mystery failure and then "heal" after a short cool down. Since the signal is a thin pulse, you need a Snap-on adapter or a lab scope from an auto shop. The metal tab on the flywheel tickles the pick-up coil....pulse + and then pulse - as the metal tab goes past the central pole of the coil. The signal and "gnd" are fed to the ECU by a shielded cable. These can short down (together) if there is cable damage (smashed) and kill the signal. Also make sure the Al foil wrapped does not short out the signal at the ends at the connectors. You can tape the ends to help...used to standard fare but seems to be lacking on the Chino units. Now for the fuel pump. Do you get the 5 second KEY ON fuel pump run and then shut off? THE ECU will start the fuel pump again when cranked over. Happy hunting.

Best NOT to have in 4WD on pavement. Hard on drive train. OK if on loose dirt or snow. Use rear wheel drive on hard surfaces.

Nothing....weep hole for coolant to escape if the water pump seal fails.....don't end up in the engine oil. Some brands use a small J hose that bugs nest and block off or mud will seal over....which is not good.

The main trick is tilting the front end up. Block the rear wheels and jack up the front end at least a foot. A convenient ditch works well also.....rear wheels in a shallow ditch. The head bleeder screw should be opened. With the engine NOT running, almost fill the radiator (leave some air to avoid a mess) and burp (squeeze the lower hose line before the metal tube at the engine base passenger side floor area). Watch the radiator and the the bleeder. With the radiator "higher" than the head bleeder, the air should be bled and coolant dribble out. Close the bleeder and refill radiator (your clue you displaced the air with coolant) and start the engine. Burp more while running and if you get the circulation going the hoses will warm up. More bubbles should surface at the radiator filler neck. Shut off engine. Open bleeder and release any air in the head. The puke jug needs to be filled about an inch above the full cold line. Use a shop towel as a "seal"and use an air nozzle to SLIGHTLY pressurize the puke tank removing the air from the tubing line to the radiator neck. Then the radiator starts to overflow, a third hand can install the radiator cap. Run the engine and determine the head and hoses are at the close to the same temperature (as in warming up) through out the system. IR temp gun....fairly cheap now....can get real numbers. Scan the radiator, hoses, cylinder and head.....if all close you are done. Recheck fluids when done riding. Recheck the bleeder and top off the puke jug as required.

I was under the impression the machine was tore down and you were installing the cams. I start with the completely assembled engine and how to check the cam timing. Determine the direction of rotation of the crank. The crank pin is NOT offset. Both rods are on the single crank pin. Rocker cover is off. Spark plugs OUT. Use a copper wire about a foot long and insert into the FRONT cylinder spark plug hole. Rotate the crank in the forward direction. Observe the copper wire as to IF going UP or DN. If going Dn keep rotating until it is going UP (heading back up) is the piston coming up toward TDC. When close to TDC, the wire will stop moving....STALL.....and then head back down. Rotate backwards to TDC. The exact TDC is in the middle of the STALL. Rotate the crank back and forth and note first movement points where the copper wire starts to go DN on both sides.....go to the center of these two points is TDC..................Could be Compression or OVERLAP. HOW TO DETERMINE IF THE CAM IS IN THE OVERLAP OR COMPRESSION TDC position. Look at the rocker arms.......If on Compression, the cam lobes will be DOWN and if cool, some looseness (spec'd Valve clearance). If on OVERLAP, the lobes will be UP (EX valve just closing and the IN valve just opening) AND with the rockers TIGHT and NO valve clearance. Look for the timing marks on the crank and case.......clean and put a paint dot to indicate TDC for the front cylinder. If having a problem, I have used the drive pulley to make and mark some timing marks. Position the crank to the marked TDC timing marks and in the CAM timing mark in the desired Compression position. Pull the copper wire and go to the REAR cylinder. Rotate the crank in the same forward direction. The TDC and Compression should be in about 270 deg. I looked at the engine and it is a 90 deg V-Twin. Check the cam lobes and rocker as before like the Front cylinder. The cam phasing has to have the greatest CRANK angle between the pair of their TDC between Front and Rear COMPRESSION positions......this is the smoothest power stroke configuration. When doing the reasssembly, set the Front cylinder TDC/Compression and rotate the crank forward to check for the 270 deg. between FT to RR. If not, it will be 90 deg....not wanted and the cam will loaded with rocker contact on the lobes. To fix, rotate the crank another 360 deg with the cam doing 180 deg and into the OVERLAP position. Unhook the cam chain and rotate the crank again 360 deg and reattach the cam chain....tensioner reinstall. Check again for the timing FT to RR for 270 deg rotation between the the OVERLAP positions of the cams.

You have ONLY a "hash line" to mark the TDC for the V-Twin engine cylinders. Just like the service manual error for the early 750/920 CC Yamaha Virago (motorcycle) you can time the cams and thus the valves to be closed at TDC---ON COMPRESSION STROKE----- BUT be phased wrong.......meaning it will run but have "rough" power strokes. The IGN timing is triggered off the crank and will fire a few degrees BEFORE TDC every time. With a 4 stroke engine, the crank turns at 2X speed as the cam. There are TWO times the T comes up WITH THE VALVES CLOSED as required so the piston doesn't bend the valve faces.......COMPRESSION and OVERLAP (Exhaust CLOSES and the Intake starts to OPEN). This is called the Wasted Spark IGN setup. The cylinder can ONLY fire on the Compression stroke ....turning into the POWER stroke BUT the fuel air mixture is "dead" burnt gasses (being pushed out (Exhaust) and not Compressed before a new fuel air charge is sucked into the cylinder (Intake)). Back to the phase of the 2 individual Power strokes. The phase angle of the IGN spark pulses (timed off the crank) is determined by the V bank angle. BMW and Wings have a Boxer type engine where the "twin" cylinder is 180 deg apart on the crankshaft rotation.....shared coil pack......one cylinder is on Compression (fire spark) while the "twin" is at Overlap (waste spark) and vice versa. British VERTICAL twins had the both pistons on the same throw (both pistons rise and fall at the same time) and as a result the single cam lobes (push rod engine) are 180 deg apart using a separate gear reduction and dual points. This makes the firing 180 deg apart (cam) or 360 deg (crank) and the distinctive smooth sounding exhaust note-----BUT a horrible vibration that sheds tank chrome, gauges, fenders. etc. H-D, Yamaha, SOME Honda Shadows (2 versions of their V-twin) (like your motor) have the cylinders spaced around 45 to 60 deg of separation. I'll use 45 deg in this instruction set on how it works. Cam markings are for BOTH the respective TDC of the crank, BUT at 1/2 the rotation speed, they determine the Compression and Overlap cycle......Lobes both down is obviously the Compression.......Lobed spaced around 90 deg is the overlap (Exhaust valve is CLOSING) and the Intake valve is OPENING). You have to pick the correct cam position for the each of the TDC cylinder marks on the crank. You have 2 cylinders, 2 cams, 2 cam chains, 2 cam chain tensiioners. Timing has to be in the correct sequence or degree of separation between spark firing on the Compression TDC of the Front and Rear cylinders for a smooth run. You CAN have the cylinders fire at only 45 deg apart as the crank turns in normal rotation. You will have 2 power strokes 45 deg apart and then "coast thru an additional 675 deg of DEAD TIME of the 720 deg (2 x 360) 4 stroke cycle. Exhaust note will be pop--pop (0--45 deg)----------------------------OVERLAPx2------------------------------pop--pop (720--765 deg)---------------------------------OVERLAPx2)-----------------------------------------pop--pop etc. This will "run" but is not an "even power output" the flywheel can smooth out. To prevent this assembly build error, most of the engine suppliers have the crank marked T1 and T2 for cylinders 1 and 2 and not need a manual to decode their marks. The smoothest power strokes are 180 deg apart....ALMOST impossible with a V-Twin. So go with the next best thing...........time the cams at the greatest angle of separation. For 60 deg V, the fire points you want are 0 and 300 deg.......NOT 0 and 60 deg. For 45 deg V, the fire points you want are 0 and 315 deg. That said using this rule of thumb, you can time any V-Twin cams without service manual information. USE CARE TO KEEP THE CAM CHAINS TIGHT ENOUGH TO PREVENT JUMPING OFF THE LOWER CRANK GEAR. NO CAMS AT THIS TIME. STEP 1: Determine the direction of rotation (CW or CCW facing the crank) of the crank. Usually have a circle arrow.....BUT if none, rotate the crank and feel for and listen for the starter rotation. Turning the crank in the forward direction (normal after starting) will be "free" and rotating backwards will engage the one-way starter sprag bearing and turn the starter thru the reduction gears (harder to turn). Your 2nd picture looks like an "half arrow" pointing to the direction of rotation??????Maybe???? STEP 2: Rotate the crank in the same direction and bring up any timing mark "T" in the window. Use a copper wire to determine and select which piston is UP and TDC. IF REAR cylinder is TDC (up) continue another 45 deg of rotation until the FRONT cylinder is TDC (up) and the "T" in the window. I like to use a 3/8" breaker bar and 12 point socket (with spark plugs out there is no load) and align the handle with the cylinder that the piston is UP at TDC. NO guess as to which cylinder I am working on. Personal preference is to start with the FRONT cylinder. I usually add a paint mark to the FRONT "T". STEP 3: Rotate (IN THE SAME DIRECTION) toward the REAR cylinder "T".....should almost be a complete rotation of the crank.......315 deg.........the desired smooth firing order. STEP 4: Rotate (same direction) the crank the 45 deg to the "T" (with now a paint mark). Here it is hard to Install the FRONT cam with both lobes just touching the cam rockers. Install the cam with the lobes down and valves closed. Double check the alignment of the index marks on crank and cam. STEP 5: Install the tensioner (wind up and hold to load). Tighten the 2 bolts to hold the chain tensioner. Release the wind up. DONE. The cam and chain are now held in position to the crank "T" mark. STEP 6: Rotate the crank thru the 315 deg to the next "T" REAR cylinder at IT'S TDC. STEP 7: Install the REAR cam with both lobes down (compression) and the valves closed and align the index marks like before. STEP 8: Install the cam chain tensioner like before. STEP 9: Double check the REAR alignment marks like before. STEP 10: Slowly hand rotate the crank thru 2 complete cycles (4 rotations). From where you left the crank in Step 6, rotate 45 deg to the Front Cylinder OVERLAP TDC. The Exhaust valve should just be closing and the Intake valve just opening. Rotate 315 deg to the OVERLAP of the rear cylinder. Rotate until the FIRE position of TDC Front cylinder comes up in the next 45 deg. Check the timing marks alignment. REPEAT AGAIN to be sure. This is to check valve timing AND for NO binding with valve/piston INTERFERENCE. That's it!!!! Install spark plugs in their boots and lay on engine.....watching for the spark. If you turn on the IGN SW (KEY ON) only------NOT START------and rotate the engine over by hand, you will see a spark for every T but only one is usable at the Compression TDC. The OVERLAP spark is wasted on the burnt exhaust gas AND no compression. My final check is to use the crank with the starter and put a finger over the open spark plug holes. You should have a "semi-suck" on finger tip spark (overlap) and a nice compression blow off POP when the plug fires for the Power stroke.....................for each cylinder.

In case you cannot find the chain trick: Tie a nylon string (I like braided) to the top of the chain loop. Position the bottom of the chain on the crank gear and they pull up on the string.....tie off onto the SxS roll cage or a storage shelf above if working on a bench assy. The string tension keeps the the chain on the lower crank gear. Next, you slide the cam gear onto the cam (no bolts yet as it can rotate BUT get it close to the timing mark. "Stretch" the string and use a pick to milk on the chain onto the cam gear. Use an extension to push and mimic the tensioner and check timing marks. If off a tooth, milk it to the correct position. The extra 3rd hand.......Rotate the engine slightly and check for the cam gear to follow......still on the lower gear.

The shift linkage rod is located under the center cover. The rod is about 12mm in diameter with jam nuts (LH and RH threads like a turnbuckle) on the ends to lock the adjustment down. The hand gear shift arm lever rotation (INPUT) moves the rod back and forth. The shift cam (motor end) is on the receiving end and it's bell crank turns the linear motion into a rotation of the shift cam......gear selection. The length of the shift cam tab arm (the bend...dog leg offset metal secured by a bolt to the shift cam).... was too long. The "swing movement----total rotation in degrees" of the shift arm is not enough to push the shift cam end (rotation) to get all 3 gear positions. Typically you can get REV and NEUTRAL OR NEUTRAL and FWD. Follow the motion of the rod/rotation of the shift cam to see which way to adjust the total shift rod length. Since you usually cannot get the FULL rotation (F-N-R) of the shift cam you have 2 of the 3 noted above. Fine line on the adjustment that "drifts out of adjustment". The adjustment is made by loosening both nuts while holding the rod tight (flats stamped into the rod----no vice grips req'd). What is needed is MORE rotation. The increased angle of rotation (in degrees) can be fixed by making the shift lever bottom longer OR the cam end shorter. The length of the shift lever push-pull is not feasible to lengthen. Making the shift cam end lever SHORTER is the trick. The real fix is to cut a section (1/8" min) out of the shift cam tab/arm and reweld the ends back together.......creating a shorter lever arm length WHICH results in MORE degrees of rotation to fully engage the gears. A post I made some time ago gives the detailed instructions how to MARK both ends and then CUT into 2 pieces (taking out some material) and then weld the cut ends back together and NOT flipping parts in the process. It has to look the same just be shorter when modified. Quick adjust to NEU....should be now able to get FWD and REV.

Remove the spark plug. Rotate the engine until the piston is at the top of travel by using a copper wire (soft 10 AWG with rounded end down) and watch the travel up and down. When very close to TDC, the piston will stop going up and "stall" for a bit and then start to fall back down. Rotate "between these two positions" and you have TDC. Easier said than done. A dial indicator can also be used if you have the set up. Getting into the fan side is a pain with the cover.....bolt screw nut inserts usually "spin". Easiest is to take off the belt cover exposing the drive clutch pulley. On the rim of the pulley you can make an narrow ink mark (or tape with a ink pen line). Do the rock back and forth to find the "going up" and the "going down" location on the case. Mark the two locations. In the middle is TDC. Also, try to see if you can find the timing marks noted in the service manual and mark both with paint for future use. I had a simple trick (POSTED) to hold the chain in place and keep it from falling off the crank sprocket when installing the cam gear.....string pulled for a 3rd hand. I like to do a double check after timing the cam and then rotate to the OVERLAP (EXHAUST VALVE closing and INTAKE VALVE just opening) at the other TDC than Compression. Always rotate slowly by hand to check for valve interference. If something is wrong, you don't bend any valves. Rotate the decompression flyweights against the spring return to avoid being fooled by the cam's AUTO decompression mini-cam/button hitting the cam follower.

Pull spark plug and check the tip color. If it is lean, it will be WHITE after a run. Correct F/A mix will be a light rusty tan color. Too rich F/A mixture will be fuzzy black (Wet fuzzy if real bad and fouls easily). Too lean will be a blistered white tip....bad for engine. Start here...read the plug. Do a compression check. Compression gauge is nice but a simple finger covering the spark plug hole while cranking (WOT) tells the tale. Your finger will "blow off" with a nice pop (might even get an air flow burn-heat up fingertip) with good enough compression. A shot of starter fluid will "help" overcome a lean burn starvation problem. Pull airbox lid and give a short burst to the air intake (filter). If lean, engine should recover with the extra fuel source. You have the hanging fuel box that is just a gravity feed fuel supply. People forever hook them up wrong with the 2 fuel and single crankcase pulse lines. There is an excellent post (color) on this forum that shows the diagram for the tubing connections. The fuel pump has the pulse line that moves the diaphragm that pumps the fuel thru the internal check valve flaps. The other 2 ports are IN (from fuel tank) and OUT (to the hanging fuel box). The hanging fuel box has an IN (from fuel pump), and 2 OUT ports. The excess fuel is returned to the unit's under seat fuel tank and holds the fuel level in the hanging tank to about HALF FULL. The other OUT is the fuel line to the carb. The height of the fuel level ABOVE the carb bowl is what creates, by gravity, the pressure required to fill the carb bowl. I never liked this system as it worked fine on level ground but climbing out of a wash, the tank "height above the carb=pressure" is reduced as the machine is tilted to the sky on climb out......exactly when your fuel demand is the highest......fuel in the carb bowl drops resulting in a lean powerless hard climb out of the wash or steep up hill grades. I would sub a low pressure electric fuel pump on units and golf carts and have the added BONUS of having a "filled" carb at startup.......none of this crank.crank.crank.crank to finally get fresh fuel after a heat soak or sitting for a day or 3. Procure (bike shop sale item) or make a "test tank". It is just a plastic bottle/ shut off valve/fuel line hose that is hung above the carb and looks like an drip (medical) IV......without the infusion pump. Gets around any fuel delivery problems from diesel "mix", water slop from phase separation in OH fuel, all the way to the carb fuel nipple. Another problem is fuel line/tubing "crumbs" that break off on pulling and reinstalling old hose can clog or "restrict" the flow also. Blockage being between the carb fuel IN nipple and the float assy internals. EXAMPLE: A person bought a new plastic gas can....did NOT look inside before using. Ford 2000 could run all day BUT only last 3 minutes with a little 5' Bushhog. He let it "cool down" and it would restart only to repeat the death throes. He had $$$$$$$$$$$ in fixing the electrical system only to find out it fixed nothing with using the Bushhog. Plastic drill pigtails from the drilling of the gas can's vent hole (old style can) was poured in to the Ford's fuel tank (gravity feed system) and restricted the fuel flow at the water bowl filter. OUCH!!!!!!!! Happy Hunting.

Just a idea about an senior and good aftermarket charging system company that has salvaged some new sales failures for a friend. Charging system puked in a few hours after purchase. That takes the shine off of a new unit. Rick's to the rescue. Design wise, the stator is made "light" on the windings so the regulator can be lower cost build....i.e.....cheap as is the "power runs in the OEM harness. The regulator used is a waste excess charging current system. The excess current is shunted to ground over and above that required for the 13.6V ish to charge the battery and run accessories. A higher wattage stator will need a higher wattage regulator. $$$$$$$$ We used Rick's for years.....the latest "problem" I heard about was a xmxmxmx unit that had a strong stator but the voltage regulator used for certain models dies and the regulator is on national back order. NEWLY SOLD UNIT IS UNUSABLE and NO LIGHT AT THE END OF THE TUNNEL. Rick's built up a "custom" regulator to fix the problem that xmxmxmx Engrs could not or would not fix. It is a multi-year screw up so there was time if Rick's worked up a winner in a week why not the OEM Engrs. Contact Rick's and spec a hotter stator and a matching better regulator. Warning: I have had to beef up the stator wires and regulator supply and gnd wires over the stock OEM wiring harness for some real headlights on street bikes.....too much drop in the cheap wiring runs. Just saying, you might have to do some harness upgrades also. Rick's Motorsports Electrics ricksmotorsportelectrics.com

Neutral switch adjustment is required......The NEUTRAL dash LED should also show what is happening. .IF you shut down the engine in a forward gear THEN shift to neutral to restart, the neutral switch movable contact is not making traveling enough for contact. contact. What your are doing by shifting into REV is nudging the contact enough to make. Adjust the linkage slightly to push toward REV position.....watch the NEUTRAL LED.

4th paragraph "n" missing on driven. The driven pulleys spring will REACT to the........ sorry, typo error

Your video is the tell.......you have belt rotation at idle Your belt is rotating AT IDLE with the primary sheaves.......that is a big NO NO. The rear sheaves (transmission input) always pinch and fit tight to the belt sides. The top of the belt is NORMALLY FLUSH to the outer rim of the rear or driven sheaves......your video looks like it is running "deeper" into the sheaves. The front sheaves should be open wide enough for the belt to flop (SIDE CLEARANCE at BELT EDGES) around when the motor is off and then sorta "drag the belt forward" BUT NOT PULL AND ROTATE until the engine Revs go up and thus tighten....as in close and pinch against the belt sides thus making the belt rotate. Go thru the motion of starting to remove the belt again. I assume you are using the rear hub squish screws to "open" thus get some belt slack. Now, in Neutral, with the belt loose, see if it will slip on the drive pulley. On other words, the belt will not "rub" on the sides meaning the front sheaves are opening wide enough for clearance at idle. Compress the rear pulley springs (open up the sheaves) and remove belt to test the action of the drive pulley. Start engine, run at idle, then raise RPMs and watch the drive pulley sheaves collapse together....get narrower....with increased Rs. Drop throttle and the sheaves should return to the wide open distance at idle. I have seen where the cords from a blown/shredded belt get under the shaft bearing (the cylinder sleeve that you see between the drive sheaves) and restrict the required sheave distance travel. If this is the case, the drive sheaves won't open enough and drag tension on the belt and "pull it deeper into the rear pulley"......which the video shows. Like buying the wrong belt and it is not long enough. Take the belt and lay it around only the rear pulley. See if it will ride at the top of the sheave rim with the squish bolts removed. If it does, your problem is with the front or a wrong belt. The drive pulleys spring will REACT to the belt tension. More tension pulls the belt in DEEPER...and that is how it works.....all controlled by the engine RPM and flyweights at the front drive pulley. Speaking of flyweights and the slide bushings wear will also limit the travel of the drive sheave width. Next, load the belt into the front pulley. It should sit deep into the sheaves and have side clearance to where you can pull the belt freely back and forth. BTW, older Polaris drive pulleys had a grooved inner bearing sleeve and the OEM belt had matching grooves in the inside. Some aftermarket belts had the grooves BUT the number and spacing was off....that small amount of "extra material" would cause the belt to drag and pull at idle.....let off brake and away it goes. Bottom line, it is a juggling act for the whole setup to work.

Try and find a dealer/online that carries MOOSE aftermarket parts. The boots are not a problem to obtain.......putting the suckers on is the real problem. Tearing down the CV joint and clean up the debris, rocks, sticks, mud, etc is a messy job. There are also times where the axle shaft will NOT pop out of the hog head and have to be punched out from the opposite side. All said, IF the joint is clean and good grease, there is a NIFTY TOOL made by MOOSE called quick shot??? to expand the small shaft end of the boot and push to over the CV knuckle. It is air powered with about 6 fingers that go inside the boot small end, expand to fit over the 3" or so knuckle and then you release the air pressure and the fingers collapse back to about 1" dia to remove. SLICK because you don't have to break down the axle shaft or try to remove the axle and loose the retaining wire C clip inside the diff. The tool was about $250 a few years back but worth every penny when doing a passel of boot repairs.