Ben1098

Shine pen light into chain and lower sprocket cavity.....just to be sure the chain in on the sprocket. Keep tension on the chain and tie a nylon twist string (not braided as they do not stretch) to the "top" of the timing chain with the other end tied off on the roll cage. The top tie point must be very close to the position the cam gear will install to. Slide in the cam gear and milk the chain around the gear and then keep the chain and gear tight so the chain cannot jump of the lower sprocket. Mount gear to cam and verify the timing dots and sling weights. The 3 hand fix. BEN

Jetting for the fuel enriching circuit ("choke") too small. Older Honda had the same problem resulting in a LEAN spit backfire that took out the starter drive gear teeth.....which attached to the flywheel magnets and shredded the stator and the SS liner and thus knocking off the magnets. Using a copper wire to see-saw the jet opening usually opened up the jet enough. Small # drill bits are usually too agressive on opening the jet up.

ENGINE OFF. Look at primary (PRI) pulley.....does the belt fit "tight" and rubs on the slider sheave......this is what makes the secondary (SEC) pulley spin in neutral. Manually spin the SEC pulley.....does it bind and drag at the PRI pulley? Options for the problem: Some aftermarket belts are cut wrong and the inside groves do NOT match the pulley groves and/or the number of groves are different than the pulley groves. Count both groves and location. The PRI pulley is NOT opening wide enough. Did the belt shred with strings? Sometimes the strings (cords) get UNDER the sliding sheave and bind....keeping the PRI pulley from opening wide enough. Mechanical wear on the slinger weights, the pins, slides, bad rub wear spots inside...requires PRI tear down and tools. Remove belt and hand squeeze the PRI sheave.....no binds and pops back to the idle position with a clunk at the stop. Start motor (no belt installed) rev up and watch the PRI sheave movement. Should close up and then slam back at idle.

The P.S. has me thinking......you mention "Fuel mist" out of the valve rocker cover. All you should is basically NOTHING at crank speed. Any vapors blown out are from blow by (past the rings) into the crankcase. IF you are OVER FUELING and wetting down the cylinder walls (that is, washing off the oil coating) you will have blow by. Oil coating helps seal the rings. That is why an engine that has set (dried out) and low compression is given a shot of WD-40 or any light oil to seal the rings. This leads to the next thought.....If over fueling, the raw gas will "drain" into the crankcase and dilute the motor oil. Check motor oil level.....too high?....too thin?.....wipe on tissue and sniff the oil....Gassy smell?....will light off with a burn test (soak up some oil on a paper towel and see how fast it starts to burn). Oil basically won't. Diesel will start slowly but take off. Gassy oil....if you value the hair on body parts...hold at a distance with long needle pliers!!!! Gassy diluted motor oil will add to the fuel/air mixture via the breather tube. Similar to a turbo seal failure on a diesel......RUNAWAY even after the injector pump shut down...very bad ending! Drain oil and replace filter....won't get it all (always some oil remains that cannot drain) but will dilute the gas. BONUS: Pulling the vent tube will clean up a mystery RICH run be it carb or FI (everything is correct BUT) after the motor warms up and cooks off the gasoline----sorta like an EGR Evap system. Slop fuel never lights off or barely runs depending on the degree of "slop". You state pulling the injector, the engine runs until it runs out of fuel. ARE you leaving the injector hole OPEN. This will allow lots of fresh air into the cylinder and will light off a rich mixture and then die because no more fuel is injected. ASSUME the ECM is sending the correct pulse width to the injector for now. Injector can hang and "piss" instead of spray. The key is the 14.7/1 air fuel mixture. Too RICH.....runs heavy and then dies at idle. May start to run, but as the leftover UNburned charge gets richer-----labors-----pukes. Too Lean......no start....fuel is there but cannot lite off.....then as it builds up, you get a pop only to be to lean again.....repeats the cycle.....THIS IS HELL ON THE STARTER AND REDUCTION GEARS. This also load the oil with gasoline (unburned). Again the fuel correct, look for a restriction in the air intake (not enough air).....common causes....CRITTERS...mouse house....full of acorns....rag pulled in for a nest, and so on. EASY TEST: Remove the air intake plumbing at the throttle body. Plenty of air now. If runs, check out the air box/plumbing. IF NO RUN....next section. Too much fuel: Time to test the ECM/injector system. ANY BAD input signal to the ECM will make the fuel delivery too much or too little. Pull spark plug. Read the insulator tip color. Just right is a light TAN color. Very WHITE...blistered LEAN. RICH has a BLACK, SOOTY, shiny black/wet black (carbon is fuel soaked). If really black, they might fire outside to the engine block BUT "blowout" under compression even at idle. If not too bad, they might run at idle but when sputter and die when a heavy demand on the ignition system (acceleration) is applied....drop in a new plug for testing to just to reduce the possible list of problems. Pull the connector to the fuel pump (under the pass seat). This is the fuel pump power (from ECM) and fuel level signal. No guessing if you found the right fuse/relay. This will stop the fuel delivery (40 PSI) to injector. Injector will still get pulses. You will shoot a short burst of starter fluid into the air box (plumbing reattached and filter OK). The motor should lite off and run until it is out of fuel. Repeat. Repeat. If works every time, give a double burst when running to "sustain" the run. Repeat. If this works, you have the ECM/input signals to ponder. This gets deep for most. Coolant temp sensor....open circuit RICH. Thinks it is at the SOUTH POLE -40 C. Like a choke for carb. Throttle position sensor.....wrong fuel mix to match the air thru the butterfly valve. MAP sensor/ambient air temp....measures engine load....wrong signal rich and lean. O2 sensor....signal to tell if RICH or LEAN. Has heater circuit to get it up to operating temp. Heaters open (toaster that does not toast). Throw in smashed wires, critters that live the taste of plastic insulation on wires, stick run thru harness, heater shorted to SHARP edged heat shield above the exhaust. More common failures are the MAP/IAT (intake air parameters) and O2 sensor. You got a lot of checks to get down to where the problem is. BTW, the ECM is a DELPHI MT05 small engine unit capable of a twin (2 inputs for the two cylinders individual O2 sensors). Check out web page for specs, pin outs for both the Grey and Black connector (PDF format)....magnitudes better than the "manual" supplied when first built. Only covers the electrical engine management with a generic diagram of the analog input(s) and the outputs like fuel pump, ign coil, etc CHOW.

I assume you replaced the speed sensor in the rear diff. The sensor has inside the SS can a magnet and wound wire coil. The end is "looking for" gear teeth as the axle turns---each tooth generates the pulses for the speedo circuit. Chewed up end means the face of the sensor threaded in too deep and is rubbing on the sharp gear teeth......OR the diff is coming apart with the ring gear having radial movement Pull the sensor and look inside the hole and have someone rotate a back raised wheel.....look for "wobble". Inspect the "new" sensor face and check for damage. Not having the sealing washer installed....sensor will thread in DEEPER......RUB/Scrub sensor face. IF no new damage (scratches) OR metal fragments stuck to the magnet, you should be good to go. There are always some floaters the sensors magnet will pick up. The key is if the new one is also chopped up. Adding extra sealing spacer (with sealant) will space the sensor head back away from the gear teeth. The oil supplied should be changed after breaking....seen failures when not replaced. Hope this helps. P.S. If spaced too far from the gear teeth, the sensor won't see them and thus no speedo indication.

What you found is the hardened sealant put on the output shaft/coupling cup. It only looks like a manufactured part as it was "molded" to almost make it look like a 2 stroke rod bearing cage. Clean it good as in getting all the hardened sealant "needles" and oil off. Apply sealant sparingly to the outside of the shaft spline (you don't want a goober pushed into the engine/tranny case). Next, give a good coating to the coupler spline inside (this will be pushed outward to the threaded end when pushed onto the output shaft). This seals the spline/coupler interface. Next coat the washer face surface of the coupler and add some to the cleaned washer face also. Slide on the washer, smashing out a blob of sealant to seal the washer to the coupling and also have some seal to the nut when you buzz down the nut. Use a quality NON-HARDENING SEALANT.

The "power" for the ign and fuel pump is supplied by the ECU outputs. ECU needs +12V @ BLACK connector P. 15 Ign=KEY ON and P. 18 VSS=ALWAYS HOT. Check both as they are fused circuits.....18 always +12v and 15 is 0v KEY OFF and =12V KEY ON.

I cannot find the post....it was for the Massimo (HiSun) 500. The decompression release is built into the valve train cam. Remove cam gear round cover and notice the flyweights and stamped timing dots. The pined disc rotates and the attached rod in the center bore of the valve cam and pushes up a button pin with a cam "flat" on the inside center rod cam in a cam....which hits the exhaust valve follower. At higher RPM, the flyweights sling out, rotates the cam inside the valve cam, and then the button pin retracts below the cam profile.....full compression. Yamaha Rhino had same build error as Massimo.....the sets were identical down the the welds and machining tool marks....SAME VENDOR????? Die grinder work required to obtain the full travel of the flyweights. One of my HiSun reworked cam/decomp assys was "borrowed" to fix a Rhino.....never to return. The post covered the rework of flyweights, the wear gouge the button pin takes out of the cam follower, the small rod cam edge that wears round (less button pin lift), the error of adjusting the exhaust valve clearance with the decomp pin raised (up at low RPM thus need to manually rotate flyweights to lower pin button for adjustment OR turn the cam to be sure you are OFF the button...watch the follower for the "jump" coming off the pin).

decompression release problems will give the "stall" and require multiple hits to get it to finally crank over. Valve adjustment (exhaust) is critical to the decomp pin opening the valve. Other problem is the actual decomp assy worn or a groove chipped out in the cam follower where the pin rubs at low RPM. See older post of mine on the decomp assy in the cam....interchangeable with Rhino....identical down to the welds and flyweight interference problem.

Do you have a mini-fuel tank (1 Pint) hanging behind the pass seat? Do you have the vac pulse fuel pump...little box with fuel IN/fuel OUT/vac hose to carb area. Yes, can be hooked up wrong. Seen a previous post of the whole setup picture diagram that was good. DOCTOR parts stove was source (forgot exact handle). Pump has IN and OUT with vac signal usually a smaller port. INPUT is suction so no leaks to a good in-tank fuel filter---meaning can gas be sucked into the pump input? Vac signal---no leaks in hose and connected to manifold. OUTPUT goes to the little tank and partly fills the tank to the OVERFLOW RETURN level connects back to the fuel tank. The fuel level is above the carb so fuel flows to the carb bowl. Use a test tank (no pressure just gravity feed) to the carb----if runs ok, go back to the input of the tiny tank----same test. You are just subbing the test tank for the fuel pump. Also seen instances of where customers replumbed trying to get away from dry starts (setting for a time and fuel evaps). BTW, this set up sucks.....fuel starve (as is sputter and die) then going UP HILL for extended time. Tank is "lower" relative to the carb in "nose up" position and there is not enough gravity to fill the carb bowl completely in this high demand situation. Low pressure (carb) electric fuel pump is the fix. Gas fills carb in a few seconds instead of cranking the guts out of starter to get the pump/mini-tank/carb bowl filled. Golf carts love this fix.

GY-------GR/BK BK-------GY WHT-----L GRN VIO------WHT/BK

Rhino has a snubber diode in series with power feed from IGN switch. Clones also have same. The diode OPENS.....thus no power to FAN. Test by jumping in 12V when radiator warm. If thermo switch is good and no air in coolant....have fan. The bad part.....the diode is part of the wiring harness. Hard wire the "jumper" IGN switch feed and don't waste time looking for diode. Post back results.

Quick and dirty checks. Do a compression test....thumb over spark plug blow off test.....should pop off good. Next spark and at correct timing...should spark when thumb is blown off on compression stroke. FUEL. Pull injector connector.....this keeps injector from squirting fuel. Give a couple shots of starter fluid into air box filter. If engine is solid, spark good, compression good, motor will run a couple seconds until fluid is burned off. This means a fuel problem. 40 PSI pump pressure req'd. Pump runs with KEY ON for a few seconds to build up pressure....stops until engine cranked over. Injector ECM electrical pulses to fire injector. Remove injector from intake and check for fuel mist. These checks should guide you in the right direction and narrow down problem instead of throwing parts at it.

Round. Flat spots are worn "sliders" and not rotating up and down the ramp. Check for belt debris wedged under the sheave....usually cord threads with some rubber attached.

The cable "pulls" the lever and thus cams the pads together in the calipers. Reassy with slack in the cable and then adjust (tighter) to no drag at RELEASE and but make sure it will hold on a hill when set before end of pedal travel. After thought...woods riding can snag a cabe and pull the brake tight.

Need more details. Tranny to Neutral. Raise both rear wheels on jack stands. Park brake disc is on diff drive shaft. Have assistant rotate any side rear wheel...open diff....opposite rear wheel will turn in reverse direction. If TRUE, diff is ok. Try to rotate drive shaft, if park brake locked.....NO GO. Have seen master cyl hold pressure to FR and RR locking them up....thus the jackstand test. Lever has stepped rack, button release....problem with release? Cable stuck in sheath? Mechanical brake cam/lever stuck on full pad pressure. Need answers to go forward.

The cam follower's "slipper pad" was the problem in some units I worked on. The cam was ground square but the rubbing pad mating surface was NOT parallel . Result was the valve spec gap went from zero on one side to excessive on the opposite side. Think of a well abused grinding wheel before truing it back up. High contact pressure OR a lubrication problem failure. Check head for blocked oil passages. Seen silicone sealant "goobers" from previous repairs get chopped up in the oil pump only to block off oil passages. Check for above.

Do tests on diff for the 3 positions of the rack block L to R. Do tests on servo motor by switching the dash buttons and watch the pinion gear....should have 3 stops to match the diff rack.

You have more tests to perform: 1. Raise all 4 wheels......jackstands. 2. Remove the servo gear motor assy from the front diff. Leave connectors on. KEY ON Have assistant cycle the buttons on the dash. The pinion gear should should have 3 distinct stops....2WD, "3WD", 4WD. If this works ok....check the diff rack function. 3. The servo motor pinion gear (the 3 stops) drives the rack back and forth for 3 stops. You are going supply the Left to Right to Left motion to the rack "block". Have assistant rotate wheels as you slide the rack thru the 3 positions to get the 2, 3, 4WD diff functions. If diff functions correctly, slide the rack to center position (usually the correctly timed position is off center by 1 to 2 teeth). Then, select 3WD on the buttons (center).......insert slowly to engage the pinon to the rack. Test button/wheel rotation combinations. Adjust rack position to fine tune if required. NEVER SHIFT INTO 4WD UNDER POWER/LOAD. That will break the little rack pin or shift fork. ALSO.....NO 4WD ON PAVED SURFACE WITH TURNING. BINDS UP THE DRIVE TRAIN. CHOW

Go to Engine Coolant Sensor on top of the head.....will look like a mini spark plug. Single wire. This runs to ECM. The sensor is a special resistor that changes resistance value.....most are NEG....meaning the value goes down as the probe end in the coolant gets hotter....and of course the reverse also for R high at low temp. Test time DVM DC VOLTS. Pull and probe the ECT plug....KEY ON. You should have +5 ish Vdc....source is ECM signal input that has an INTERNAL resister in series to +5 source. The DVM "sips" current....thus NOT A LOAD. Next....DVM R range. N to head body and P to sensor tip connection. You should have some resistance (don't have specs) say cold 10K to 100K. An open sensor pellet will be INFINITE...same as leads apart.....which is bad. Your message stated the Error Code was high voltage or open circuit. With out a load....Meter doesn't count.....you get +5Vdc from ECM at ECT sensor connecter. If ECT is good (a resistance load) AND wiring is good, the voltage will be less than +5 due to voltage divider action. The changing sensor will change the inputs voltage....calibrated to temp to control fuel delivery.....Like the TPS, a swing from 1V to 4V. That's how it is supposed to work. Your problem is one of 3 items harness/connectors/ECT. If no +5 at connector, check at ECM....if good, find the open ckt. The open circuit makes the ECM think it is at the South Pole @ - 40 deg C....dumps extra fuel for a COLD start. Check spark plug for sooty black or wet electrode....clean and dry or start with a fresh plug because fouled plugs may look sorta ok, but no or weak spark. CHOW

Try a simple test....the finger compression test. Remove spark plug. Put it back into cable and lay on clean as on no mud frame gnd....away from engine head. Push finger/thumb over spark plug hole tightly. Have helper crank over engine. Good compression will blow your finger off with a nice POP! Another clue.....everything is installed and crank over engine. You should hear the motor cranking sound change....sorta like a Whop Whop Whop Whop. This is the cranking speed dropping during the compression stroke starter loading then spinning faster during the other 3 phases of 4 stroke engines. Chow

A fast test is just use 2 jumper/clip leads. The signal will be good enough if NOT routed against harness. If miss fire or sputtering, shield the signal wire. Grab some Al foil strip 1/2" wide...wrap length wise....finger roll tight...masking tape here and there and the ends (stay off the ends...no shorts) AND take a 3rd clip lead....attach to foil and a good ground (signal gnd). Shielded cable on the cheap.

Tried again....no answer....try [email protected] Guessing what your question would be: 450 ohm vs 210 ohm coils. Seen both used. The 450 ohm had failure problems..thermal good/bad self healing. Tech info...the output is the real object. Internal construction better magnet and heavier wire/less turns (lower resistance) but gives equal pulse output. Chino service manual...copy of Yamaha Rhino SxS clone copied Yam specs and NOT what was in machine. Pickup coil. Output is signal and signal gnd taken off BOTH ends of the coil windings. Tech.....the pulses due to make/break of magnetic circuit are + and then - repeating as the flywheel rotates. Coil can be wired wrong.....as in backwards....resulting in a timing error. Most ign modules trigger off + edge. Thus timing will be off. Shielded wire consists of insulated signal wire(s) wrapped with a foil shield and then a bare (drain) wire wrapped around foil...all with a outer insulation jacket. You application has a single center wire (signal) and the bare drain wire is signal gnd. Smash the cable and the foil/bare wire will short to the inner signal conductor. I've seen a wire tie too tight break down the insulation on well used machines. In your case 1. Pickup R was "correct" at output at engine. 2. Measured at Delphi ECM very low R...SHORT.....due to insulation failure in S cable. 3. Measured R in both center and drain wires and OK.....these wires are still intact....will both be low R. 4. The internal short will kill the weak pickup signal...ECM no timing signal....dead.

Did you send a LA area code phone number. I called 2x from 812 xxx xxxx..no answer nor voice mail...this you

The pickup coil signal wire is shielded due to ECU input can "see" other "trash" like the starter current pulses. You have a smashed cable which shorts signal to GND....this the mohm reading you get. Shielded cable is toast....cut back the cable to leave two (2) pigtails. Connect the open ends....ECM input and the pickup coil output(s). Go to electronics store a buy a chunk of shielded cable...take sample along.....SOLD ER all 4 joints...route new wire run far away from starter HOT and the 3 PH stator to Regulator wires