mixfixdave

Some more information here… Joyner Trooper Power Steering https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?share_fid=21400&share_tid=4601&share_pid=25128&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eutvboard%2Ecom%2Findex%2Ephp%3F%2Ftopic%2F4601-Joyner-Trooper-Power-Steering%2Fpage__view__findpost__p__25128&share_type=t&link_source=app

Try Casey Ye. See this post Joyner CV Axle parts available https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?share_fid=21400&share_tid=7937&share_pid=37553&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eutvboard%2Ecom%2Findex%2Ephp%3F%2Ftopic%2F7937-Joyner-CV-Axle-parts-available%2Fpage__view__findpost__p__37553&share_type=t&link_source=app

[mention=475]ricksrb[/mention] …your cousin Ron is trying to message you.

Yes, just unscrew the gauge and use the T fitting from the old regulator for the gauge and rail line.

Yessir… https://www.ebay.com/itm/Adjustable-0-140PSI-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-Parts-Kit-Oil-Gauge-Oil-Hose-Black-/264096055119?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

My T4 front driveshaft has the pin through it at the front differential and it just slides on/off the splined shaft at the transmission end.

Since I’ve got about 7.5k mostly off-road miles on the old T4, the steering rack is pretty sloppy! Installed a new one pretty easily though… Had to use a new steering u-joint since the spline on the Joyner rack is a bit smaller/metric. Used Latest Rage part number AC425152 and a 5/8”- 36 spline - 3/4 double D shaft.

Here is that latest replacement starter on eBay for $60. https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Starter-12V-8T-for-Chery-QQ-1-1L-16V-CL-ST180-S11-3708110-/114784491498?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

It is 3 small wires to one ground connection. All the wires are bundled together. I’m on my 3rd starter in 7,000 miles of off-road. The most recent one I purchased spins the motor much better than the stock one or it’s replacement.

I will go look…

I think there is also a ground lead on one of the starter mounting bolts.

Check your fuses behind the seat.

I believe the problem is that at higher rpm’s, the chery 1100 doesn’t have enough water flow capability to dissipate the heat. Problem is not with the radiator or airflow, it’s related to the water passage sizes inside the engine. I can hammer at 55 for a while, but eventually have to slow down to 40mph and let the temp gauge come back down. No problems off-road though.

I replaced my radiator that was leaking/cracked with a half size one that fits a 2000 Acura integra…pretty straightforward and it pretty much resolved my overheating at sustained height rpm’s on asphalt. If it gets hot on the street, run it below 3500 rpm for a bit.

My 08 T4 is a great machine too. After my first mud hole in the thing, oh about 10 years ago, I added a splash shield under the hood so the back side of the dash would not get muddy. My stock switches and gauges still work…As well as axles/cv’s. I have a spare axle but never needed it so far in 7k miles of Tennessee rocks and mud. Had to beef up the rear trailing arms (I broke one off), replace the oil sender, and several rounds of SKF wheel bearings. Overall a great machine though.