Jacksnife

Kinarfi, I have the head disassembled now... do you want pictures of the bucket and shim? I found out the shim is a generic 25mm shim found almost everywhere. Still pricey little jewels.

Mine is 2008... but that pic above isn't of mine. I don't know what year that trooper in pic is. Mine has the back canister with the screw off top (hose going to the radiator), but where the other canister is I have nothing but an empty bracket. here is a pic of mine with missing canister. You can see an empty bracket if you look close enough.

Not the one in the back (top on pic), the one with the hose coming out of the valve cover (breather) and going directly to it. The small hose is missing on mine, but I assume it also goes to the canister because blow-by was coming out of it too.

Is the chromed canister directly connected to the valve cover important? I can only imagine this being some sort of EPA thing? The previous owner ran a hose from the valve cover to the rear (that's how bad the blow-by was). And the small hose coming from the top of the valve cover I assume goes to the opposite side of the canister? Aside from buying a new canister, what should I do with these ports? I borrowed this image from another post by Plumber... how do I get images to display as a thumbnail? http://www.utvboard.com/topic/3252-as-always-more-power-help/page-2?hl=port

decided to start working on the valves starting with the leaky cylinder. Before and after (exhaust valve) I did the intake but forgot to take before pics. Looks like my grinding compound might be a little rough by looking at the intake.

To me this head looks great cleaned up... and considering it only has 600 miles on it, I'm going to lap the leaky cylinder and put in new seals. If I do run across a bad valve guide then i'll get it replaced by a pro.

I got the shims out with compressed air... popped'em right out. I can see how a dental pick would have also worked, but a screwdriver was hopeless. Now that the oil is out of them they fall right out so i'll have a better time getting them back in the right places. .228 x3 .230 x3 .232 x2 .252 x2 .254 x2 .256 x3 .260 x1 I'm impressed! I was expecting them to all be the same.

and which grit hone with the OEM replacement rings? : ) I think I have 280 and 600 grit, but if I remember right I used the 600 grit on moly rings (or was it chrome?)

Can't find machine shop that will take a Chery ("It's a what!? No! ..click") Can I call it something else?

I let gas sit in the combustion chambers over night and one did leak out. So I'll be taking it in for a valve job. Should I take the shims with me or is this something I need to do myself? Bad news is I tripped carrying the shims and got them out of order... I was too careful I guess lol! damn! I'm not too worried about it though. There is hardly any sign of them being used. I think a quick polish and it wont be any different than putting a new spacer in. btw, how do you get the spacers out? The manual says screwdriver but it wont budge... they rotate fine, but refuse to dislodge (or disintegrate like the manual says, lol!)

Pulled the head and everything looks surprisingly good. No scoring in any cylinder, no obvious damage to any valve. The pistons are flopping around like there were no rings on them at all... but that's about it. There is also a grey sludge in the oil pan. It feels like wheel bearing grease but looks like graphite. interesting.

Ok it's out and on a stand. Got it tore down to a long block. I'm not experienced with overhead cams at all (first one) so I'm a little apprehensive about the next steps. This motor only has 600 miles on it and it looks great! Even the clutch hasn't been worn enough to make it past the rough spots. The cam is just starting to get a little shine on the lobes. So I plan to put it back together exactly the way it came apart. Why would I need new shims?

Ok, I started reading the manual about the head and valve adjustments, and am wondering if there is a place that specializes in rebuilding these? It might be worth the piece of mind to send it off.

Thanks guys! Ok, I'll yank the engine. I've read two engine pull posts, one keeping the tranny in, one pulling it with the motor. I would prefer to leave the tranny in the frame... I have a bad habit of taking things too far so I need to pick a stopping point and stick to it. I'm rebuilding this so my wife can tool around the lake in place a golf cart can't go. Nothing strenuous. I can tell you she loves it though and can't wait for me to fix it. It's got 1000 miles and 6000 hours (huh?) What kind of usage is that!? That's a lot of 6 mph craziness lol. Ooops! Never mind I read that wrong... ~600.0 miles 1000 kilometers : )

Thanks Hardy, I'm hoping it's just rings and valve guides. but with 30psi in one cylinder I'm expecting something more drastic. I'll keep this thread going with updates. I have seen a couple other threads with engine rebuilds, but can't access the pictures. It appears the hosting server can't find them or something. I wondering if it's possible to hone/re-ring with the block while it's still in the frame.

Thanks BD! I was getting nowhere searching for 'clunking' sound, but getting lots of hits on Heim joints! i.e. - http://www.utvboard.com/topic/2915-front-suspension-heim-joints-ball-joints-etc/

I'm having a loud bang in the front every now and then. It sounds like it comes from the left and right wheels (alternately). It doesn't do it on flat road at all, only on a rutted dirt path. At first I thought it was the suspension violently reaching the extent of it's travel, kind of like a no rubber metal on metal bang. I just got it (used) so it's a mystery how long this bang has been there. Any ideas?

I got it for my wife who is abusing our golf cart on the lake trails. So I don't expect to take it rock climbing or anything like that. But she does like taking her girlfriends out romping through the woods and so far she loves it!! I knew when I bought this thing it wasn't kept care of... it was smoking and was very hard to start. It also has massive blowby. The previous owner ran it without an air filter. o.O I was expecting rings and valve guides, nbd. I was actually hoping to do lower bearings/rings with the block still mounted in the frame. But unfortunately one cylinder is at 30psi Hopefully it didn't damage the cylinder walls what ever it is. My question is; while I'm searching for replacement parts, should I just stick with Chery stuff? I'm thinking if I only need a rebuild kit, to stick with Chery. But, if I need to start replacing valves, pistons, etc... should I be looking at the Ford CVH 1.1L for parts? In fact, can I take it to a machine shop and tell them it's an old Ford CVH? Thanks for any feedback...