Ernie

Hello guys and gals! It's now 2012... any new updates on the shocks? How are the ones you put on 2-4 years ago working out for those of you that have replaced them? Like Kinarfi, I want to just bolt on new little better than the chincey stock ones and go. The King price is out of the question for my retired budget. I have a 2008? first 5,000 T-2 Trooper. Thanks, Ernie

We discovered the problem the hard way, while out on a ride We were able to limp home.. The ball joint popped out of the stub axle, also the axle fell out. The chintzy bolt was as tight as it could possibly be. Upon bolt removal and inspection, the threads of the bolt were worn off where the ball joint notch rubs. I am going to replace all with the 1/2-20 grade 8 bolts and reseat the bushing in the helms bolt . The dissambled one on the drill press, the others, in place. This is a very dangerous problem that can't be discovered just by "nutting and bolting" the trooper on a regular basis. I strongly advise everyone to remove the bolts and inspect them for wear and replace as necessary. Thanks Lenny for the very good explaination of this fix.

I found that post while I was looking for a post re adjustments. Thanks for the help! Ernie

That is the one answer I was hoping not to hear! Great Thanks for confirming my suspisions. Ernie

It's me, Ernie again. I searched high and low for a topic on this before I posted this. I have no more clutch adjustment by the clutch fork, it's grinding gears. I unbolted the clutch fork, moved it one notch closer to the hydraulic for adjustment. It caused too much throw and is now riding the clutch and RPMS are going nuts. I put it back the way it was and am going to adjust the upper part. I just cut the firewall to get clearance to access it from the front. There is no more adjustment from the stock position and is grinding gears. Does anyone have any suggestions about adjusting? Any and all ideas will be most helpful. Thanks, Ernie

Thanks, glad you like it! Pouches: Cabelas. They hold all our stuff like glasses, keys, cell phones and trinkets. We also use an atv saddle bag over the shifter/console to hold water, TP, gloves, binoculars. Hooked with velcro over the top bar. Had to modify it a bit as it was originally made for another brand sXs. The fender extender material (ROLL PLASTIC) comes in in various colors and lengths. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Colored-Plastic-Rolls,1557.html is the direct link to the product at Speedwaymotors. We've dealt with this company for years and their service/shipping is great. You can do all 4 fenders with a 10' long roll. 1/8" thick 22" wide. It is rigid, durable and not too costly. We use it on the race car for all kinds of purposes. to cut it you just score and snap, then file the edges a little. Rivet or nut and bolt the fenders on.

BTW, I also put some extruded metal about 2 inches in front of the radiator so if anything on the deck should get too close to the radiator, it won't smash the fins. The moving of the radiator and snorkel, really helped me, as I had an overheating problem before doing so. Ernie

I have one of the first 5000 troopers made, so I have the metal deck on the "safari" rack. I re-routed the air tube from the front towards the back, drilled a hole into the deck, added some tube and bolted it up to the frame of the rack using the same mounting holes the chrome tube had. Engine breathes much better now. There is enough slack in the rubber tubing underneath to raise the rack. Similar operation for the radiator and fan. Engine stays much cooler with it mounted up top. I also removed the center bar that ran thru the center of the deck. It was relatively simple to do both. Hope this helpsyou out Mike. Ernie

Well Thank You Mike! I think that will be way off the gear oil topic so I will post it separately soon. Ernie

Ok, some pics are in the gallery and I wrote on my profile. Ernie