Ernie

Hello guys and gals! It's now 2012... any new updates on the shocks? How are the ones you put on 2-4 years ago working out for those of you that have replaced them? Like Kinarfi, I want to just bolt on new little better than the chincey stock ones and go. The King price is out of the question for my retired budget. I have a 2008? first 5,000 T-2 Trooper. Thanks, Ernie

We discovered the problem the hard way, while out on a ride We were able to limp home.. The ball joint popped out of the stub axle, also the axle fell out. The chintzy bolt was as tight as it could possibly be. Upon bolt removal and inspection, the threads of the bolt were worn off where the ball joint notch rubs. I am going to replace all with the 1/2-20 grade 8 bolts and reseat the bushing in the helms bolt . The dissambled one on the drill press, the others, in place. This is a very dangerous problem that can't be discovered just by "nutting and bolting" the trooper on a regular basis. I strongly advise everyone to remove the bolts and inspect them for wear and replace as necessary. Thanks Lenny for the very good explaination of this fix.

I found that post while I was looking for a post re adjustments. Thanks for the help! Ernie

That is the one answer I was hoping not to hear! Great Thanks for confirming my suspisions. Ernie

It's me, Ernie again. I searched high and low for a topic on this before I posted this. I have no more clutch adjustment by the clutch fork, it's grinding gears. I unbolted the clutch fork, moved it one notch closer to the hydraulic for adjustment. It caused too much throw and is now riding the clutch and RPMS are going nuts. I put it back the way it was and am going to adjust the upper part. I just cut the firewall to get clearance to access it from the front. There is no more adjustment from the stock position and is grinding gears. Does anyone have any suggestions about adjusting? Any and all ideas will be most helpful. Thanks, Ernie

Thanks, glad you like it! Pouches: Cabelas. They hold all our stuff like glasses, keys, cell phones and trinkets. We also use an atv saddle bag over the shifter/console to hold water, TP, gloves, binoculars. Hooked with velcro over the top bar. Had to modify it a bit as it was originally made for another brand sXs. The fender extender material (ROLL PLASTIC) comes in in various colors and lengths. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Colored-Plastic-Rolls,1557.html is the direct link to the product at Speedwaymotors. We've dealt with this company for years and their service/shipping is great. You can do all 4 fenders with a 10' long roll. 1/8" thick 22" wide. It is rigid, durable and not too costly. We use it on the race car for all kinds of purposes. to cut it you just score and snap, then file the edges a little. Rivet or nut and bolt the fenders on.

BTW, I also put some extruded metal about 2 inches in front of the radiator so if anything on the deck should get too close to the radiator, it won't smash the fins. The moving of the radiator and snorkel, really helped me, as I had an overheating problem before doing so. Ernie

I have one of the first 5000 troopers made, so I have the metal deck on the "safari" rack. I re-routed the air tube from the front towards the back, drilled a hole into the deck, added some tube and bolted it up to the frame of the rack using the same mounting holes the chrome tube had. Engine breathes much better now. There is enough slack in the rubber tubing underneath to raise the rack. Similar operation for the radiator and fan. Engine stays much cooler with it mounted up top. I also removed the center bar that ran thru the center of the deck. It was relatively simple to do both. Hope this helpsyou out Mike. Ernie

Well Thank You Mike! I think that will be way off the gear oil topic so I will post it separately soon. Ernie

Ok, some pics are in the gallery and I wrote on my profile. Ernie

I actually have that list you have put together.....nice to have the update. Thanks! Ok, will update profile. AND add pictures of my tooper. Ernie

Thanks! Thought so, but wanted to be sure. Ernie

Just want to check before I use the wrong stuff. What weight/brand oil do you all use for the differentials? Same question for the transmission. Can't seem to find my dang manual. Thanks! Ernie

Hi all, We seem to have brake pads, just no stopping power... I have bled the breaks. Several times...... manually and with a brake bleeder, talked to joyner mechanics, etc. Just can't seem to get proper braking. Sometimes it's a hard pedal with no play. Sometimes a normal feeling pedal with no stopping power, sometimes a pedal to the floor. I've checked for leaks in the system. The actuator up by the fluid bowl acts up once in a while....so you put your toe under the pedal and pull up. Then it works for a bit. the emergency brake works great! I'm just perplexed.....anybody have any input?

4X4X454 The key word is "YET" Usually, I do my jumping on my Yamaha WR250R and leave the Trooper driving to mama! Mostly we're careful about jumping 'cause we're usually way too far away from camp or home to walk back should we break it. Riverbanks and ditches around here ain't a problem, mama handles them nicely! Looking forward to the upcoming video! BTW: We got the dang axle off! The clips were hidin' in there, get them out and the axel just slips right off easy.

Hi Cinda, The quirks in the electrical system are many. We haven't blown fuses, but things like the gauges and lights react as if fuses have blown. We also had to tighten and tape the gauge and fuel connections....that helped. They kept coming loose. The electrical system just needs to be traced to find what is causing the problem at the time...either the connection, the bulb or a broken wire inside the insulation.

Brostar, We made a monster of a slide bar and still couldn't budge the dang thing. It's stuck in there good!