firmskid

No luck yet. Heard a rumor, Joyner will be back up in a few weeks. I hope this is true,,, Thanks

Well My T2 yellow Submarine wasn't as water tight as I thought I made it. The rear diff locker cable snapped right in the first bend after the lever. I think I am going to have to boot all of the cables as well. That bend is a perfect place to store water, so beware. I am in a very rural area and resources are limited. Does anyone have a source for cable and ends or someone that may have a complete cable? Could use the help. Has there been any word on a new distributor for Joyner? I can be a little rough on things and will be needing parts here and there. Thanks All Firmskid

Water seams to be a problem for most of us. Bicycle inner tube cut long enough to cover your electrical connections plus enough length to zip tie the ends tight on the wires at both ends of the plug. No more blowing fuses. Hard starting after getting wet is history. Drill a couple of drain holes in the bottom of the fuse box covers helps from water filling up in your fuse boxes. I have also covered the vent slots on the top of the fuse box cover under the dash and on the outside vents on the box behind the drives seat. Now I need to find a way to keep from blowing my fan fuse when I am in fan deep water. Any Ideas? Don't want to relocate the radiator if at possible.

Thanks Mike. Maybe I just have a bum air box because I just cant get a good seal unless I use grease on the filter flange. I used the STP equivalent air filter (don't remember the part #). It did seam to have a better fit and is a little more stout. I think I am going to put a UNI prefilter on the snorkel intake as well and see how that works.

Greetings All, I built a snorkel for my T2 you may be interested in. I have the newer model with the filter box rather than the cone filter. The box and filter don't match very well and the stock filter is real junk. I am still working out the filter and fit but a little grease on the filter flange has stopped the dust from getting around the filter. As far as the snorkel goes, I enlarged the intake pipe to 3 inch, added a bilge blower and ran 3 inch flex induction tube to just under my roof. Made a 90 and put mesh over the opening to keep any big stuff from getting into the snorkel. The larger pipe allows for plenty air flow even when the blower is off. There is a subtle increase in performance with the blower on. Improved idle and better throttle response, along with the benefits of a snorkel. Have been in water up to the dash with no problems other than getting very wet myself and blowing my fan fuse. If anyone is interested I can share my pics and answer questions.

I removed the inner tube when I inlarged the inlet side of the box so there shouldnt be an issue there. Dust isnt a problem once I greased the filter flange. I am going to a K&N now that I got the box to work. I have a little something I am going to try tomorrow with the whole snorkel thing I have going on. I will update and post pics if it works .

Sorry no pics yet. I tried another Joyner filter and had the same problem. I picked up an STP air filter (cross ref from the part number Anylizer gave me) and gave it a good workout. The flange is black so it made it easy to see where the dirt was comming in from. On the engine side of the box the top is connected by a tab and notch conifg in 3 spots. It sort of is on a cam type principal. This is where the dirt came in with the new filter. It was very little compared to before but any dirt is too much. I am going to grease the flange and try again. It looks like I may just make my own box it this doesn't work. By the way I have modified the box to accept a 3" ID. tube for my snorkel. The prototype worked very well. I used 3" flexable intake tube from the make your own cold air stuff at Auto Z. I am going to a 3" ID. tube for the finished product with a foam pre-filter at the snorkel inlet. I will post pics of the finished product.

First, thanks for the priceless info. After seeing the dust I took a closer look at the box. it looks like the box is deformed on the side away from the engine. If you don't pay close attention when you put the filter in there will be a gap that dust can pass through. I am going to try and reform that side wall for a better fit. I did add a snorkel to the airbox. I have run 3" flex from just under my roof and reduced down at the box. I am also thinking of modifing the box so I can get rid of the reducer and to allow more air to enter the box. Thanks also for the part number for the filter. Please correct me if I am wrong but isn't the air filter upside down? Shouldn't the air come in on the flange side of the filter? I would think the filter media or pleats would want to fold over under hard accelaration almost like a check valve. Anyway thanks for the info.

I just got my first T2 two weeks ago. Anyway I went to pull my filter from the airbox and there was a ton of dust in the box on the wrong side of the filter. So now I am in a panic... I live and ride in a very dusty envirnment and dont want to lose my engine over poor filtration. Does anyone have part numbers for filters other than the Joyner filter?

I tried to look at your rad and roof pic but there is a cat food add infront of it. when i tried to x out of the add I was redirected to some cat pics, go figure. Would still like to see your mods.