strike250

Looks nice indeed. Great job

I would check to make sure the vent hose is not pinched. It sounds like the fuel tank is building up pressure while the engine is running. I would gain access to view the fuel tank and observe and inspect the entire fuel tank vent hose. Look to see if it is pinched or blocked at all. This would cause the problem you are talking about. You should not have the pressure when removing the fuel fill cap.

Hello there, there are a couple of things to address here. First off is to make sure when the throttle peddle pressed all the way down, that the throttle is also opening all the way. You can check this by removing the center cover. When you press down on the throttle, reach over to the butterfly valve and see if you can open the throttle any more on the throttle body. If so, adjust the throttle cable. But you need to make sure when the throttle is released that the throttle also closes as well. Meaning you will have just a little bit of slack in the throttle cable. You don't want the throttle body hanging up causing the engine to rev. After that, there is come control in the ECU, but there is also a electronic speed limiter, located under the dash by the winch control box. Try to make sure the throttle is adjusted properly first and let me know. Matt

Yes welcome. As with any off road product, it really depends on how it was assembled from the get go. I am not hear to bash any dealer what so ever, but no matter what you buy, you can always find someone who has had nothing but problems and others who have never had one issue. I am glad you are having fun, thats what its all about.

It only takes one battery, you only use two if you are using a lot of juice for extra things like radios and a lot of lights. As for the fuel issue, I would see if you can find a OEM fuel pump, this way the line will connect properly and not give you any issues in the future.

You really need to have a diagnostic code reader with live data plugged in. This is the only way to read the EFI system as it runs. It will show if you have any hidden codes, it will show the voltage at the TPS, engine coolant sensor and so forth. All these things need to be working correctly for the engine to get the correct spark and fuel. But with out a Diagnostic reader plugged in, you will have to sit there with a meter and measure the electrical items one by one. The fuel injector simply gets a signal to pulse, this opens the injector at specific times to squirt fuel into the cylinder. This is confirmed by signals from either the timing sensor, or crank sensor. You will also need to make sure something as simple as the coolant temp sensor is working properly, if it is not reading properly, it will tell the engine it is either too cold or too hot. This will effect your fuel problems. You will also have to measure the map sensor, the tps sensor and so on. That is why it is so much easier to get it plugged in and read it as you try to start it. Is there anyone close to you that has a diagnostic reader to plug in when you try to start it?

I think it looks great! Keep going

I keep working with different dealers, as pricing changes a lot. Just depends on what part you need. I can always send you in the right direction. I have been trying to work with Hisun on becoming a drop dealer, and still no reply. I will follow up next week to see what they say.

Congrats on your purchase. I have lots of info on that model. Manuals, tips and advice. check out www.250utv.com and you will find everything you need there. Matt

That is another great idea, I would only tell anyone to watch out for cheap "aftermarket" clones as they sometimes have a 'reliability' issue. But if you feel you have a quality one, by all means, install it. The idea is that when it is over, it will prevent liquid from spilling out. You can test anyone of these items by using a plastic water bottle and a rubber tube installed on the bottom end. just turn it upside down, and see if it stops the water from flowing out. If it does, then you are good to go. I just used a higher priced unit sourced from a reliable race source. But there are a lot of good quality aftermarket anti roll valves out there you can choose from. Good luck and have fun! Matt

Hey there, good to see folks doing some research on things prior to making a purchase. As to the topic of ground clearance, I think you might be a little surprised to find that the sector and the strike use the same wheels, shocks and suspension, so for them to say the sector has 8" of ground clearance I would say is a little 'white lie'. They use a different chassis, but share the same part numbers on many other items, like suspension front and rear. As for the power, with the throttle stop removed, it will do upwards of 48 to 50 mph with me weighing in at 200 lbs in it. as for going uphill, depends on the angle of the hill, and the condition of the trail. They are great for fire roads, but from a standing stop up a rough steep hill, you might be a little disappointed. It just doesn't have the torque required to do that kind of work. They are great for play and easy roads and trails not so much for serious off-roading. Me and my wife have both been in the strike 250, but the seats are bucket seats and are form fitting style, the bench seat in the sector might be more comfortable for two adults with room to spare. The sector is easier to get in and out of compared to the strike as well. The strike doors can be a challenge at times to open. If it were just me and my wife, I would have gotten the sector over the strike, but my young son drive the strike like crazy, so he got to pick it out and we end up driving our jeep wrangler. I have not driven the Trailmaster challenger yet so I cannot comment on something I do not know. I can only comment on what I do know. But from what you are telling me in your post, I think you will like the sector over the strike. Same engine, suspension, just different seating position. I do know the Trailmaster and the Hisun UTVs both have solid rear axles, so I think the ride will be very close. The Trailmaster uses bucket seats as does the Hisun Strike, so take that under consideration compared to the Sector and see which you would like better, remember you are the one riding in it. I looked at it on some videos and it looks okay, but I just don't know from first hand knowledge.

My site is up and running now, check it out! www.250utv.com and be sure to come back here for lots of up to dates on tech articles and how to do information. Matt

Hello once again, this time I want to bring to your attention a problem that I found out the hard way. On one of our previous trips to Dumont Dunes, my son had the great opportunity to roll his Hisun Strike 250 at very low speeds, no damage to him or the vehicle and it landed up right as well. but one thing we noticed was that fuel had poured all over the passenger!!!. Once we got back I looked at it and found the fuel tank vent was of such poor quality that it broke at the fuel tank. Not sure if it was from the roll over or just from being made from poor quality plastic. Well, I found a great long lasting repair and wanted to share it with you all. It is something that is found is pretty much most off road race vehicles. I installed a roll over valve in place of the fuel tank vent. I am including some pics to show you. In the event we roll it over once more, the vent valve will automatically shut off the flow of fuel. It has a ball valve in it and when upside down, it blocks the flow of fuel so that it can't pour out all over the persons in the vehicle and have a potential fire! It is gravity controlled. The valves are low cost at about $15 or so. Cheap insurance when it comes to safety for sure. I cleaned out the hole where the previous fuel tank vent was. I removed the fuel tank pump/filter assembly. I then drilled out the hole just smaller than the ball check valve. I was able to reach into the fuel tank to catch any plastic that the drill might push into the tank as well. I used a fuel resistant sealant on the threads as well. I used a 1/4" NPT thread fuel tank check valve with a 5/15 hose barb. This is a much better product than the OEM product. I would recommend every one install one of these for safety if they get a chance. Or at the very least inspect your fuel tank vents. No one wants fuel leaking on them in the event of a roll over.

I wanted to update some pics of the lift kit for you, more so the front lift kit area. So you can have a better look at it. The kit comes with all mounting plates, bolts, nuts, spacers and everything needed to simply bolt in. No drilling required. Powered coated in red for protection. Only $59.99

With my unit, I am able to drive it into my dually with my 200 lbs fat but in it up the ramps, it did struggle, but it made it up the ramps into my truck under its own power. Sorry again to hear about yours.