strike250

Hello there and hope you're having a great time with your new unit. As to the problem of having a trailer hitch, it has to do with where to mount it. As you have noticed, these units have a solid rear axles. Due to their mounting there is no frame area available to mount a traditional trailer hitch. I have had these units down to the chassis and there are really no great places to mount it to. The rear axle is exposed and does not have a housing. The swing arm is about your only option here. You would have to fabricate a bracket from one side of the swing arm to the other and that also perhaps has a strut in the center to attach to the swing arm as well for support. Then you might be able to bring it out rear wards and have your trailer hitch then. I happen to be a mechanical engineer as well so this is just my 2 cents. Is it impossible? no, is it available currently? no. Any good welder and fabricator can make it happen though. Probably some good ol 3/8" plate and you're there. As you can see from the pic below, not a lot of area to mount one to. But there are lots of mounting areas at both swing are to axle points. Matt

Well my unit is well out of warranty, but most of my problems have been minor. Mostly loose nuts and bolts and the main gauge is not working properly. But like any manufacture they all offer very limited warranty due the off road nature of them. Lucky me I am a master mechanic and happen to be able to repair most of the problems myself. I really don't have a dealer near me that makes it easy to take it to. Having to do a lot of the repairs myself has also taught me alot about the Hisun UTV's. Overall I am happy with the product and performance. I knew going into it what I was getting into and really have no regrets. Glad you were able to work things out. if you ever have any questions, let me know and I'll be happy to help you out.

I can totally understand your frustration, believe me. But I bought the brother to the the Hisun Strike 250 and have had nothing but good times. Great no, but lots of fun times. You have to remember every manufacture has good and bad products. This goes for cars and trucks as well. I have heard of Honda Accords breaking down the day they were bought, and don't forget the bug money name brands $25k plus UTV's out there burning down in the dunes just after a few days or weeks. I do not work for Hisun, nor am I getting any kind of benefit from this. This is just my 2 cents. I have owned over 50 different makes and models of motorcycles, UTV's and ATV's. I knew going into this purchase that it was a Chinese version, but bang for the buck, It just couldn't be beat. I took it home and from the start I took it down to the chassis. I found a lot of loose nuts and bolts. I also found a lot of things I thought the factory should have done differently, like route the wiring in places and so forth. What this did was make me very aware of the shortcomings of this unit, and accept them. It also made me aware of what this unit was capable of once it was properly maintained. After going over the entire unit, we have had pretty much trouble free fun with every outing. I have replaced many bolts with higher quality ones, and made some mods that I knew to improve the performance and operation of the unit. I think your unit had a big quality control issue from the factory, and it was not the fault of the dealer like you said. The units come pretty much assembled less wheels and a few bolt on items. The dealer un-crates the unit, bolts on the items and fires it up. I believe you might have had a linkage issue or perhaps a clutch issue. Both of which are repairable, but in your situation I can understand the frustration. Keep in mind as well, all off road makes and models have very limited warranty due to the harsh conditions they are ridden in. This is no excuse for how yours ran at all, and it should have given you some fun prior to crapping out. I hope you were able to find something that your young ones enjoy and are pleased with it. With any make, keep up the maintenance and you will have endless weekends of fun for the family. Matt

Hello there, Here I hope to help those who have not yet replaced their CV belt on the Hisun Strike 250. I have done this and found the short cuts for you. It is not a 5 to 10 minute job, so if you ever find that you need to replace the belt, get ready for some work. 1.) First off remove the seats, they are easily removed by sliding them forward until they simply come out of the tracks. 2.) Second, remove the seat track brackets and put them aside, this is to access the lower cover and battery box. 3.) open the battery cover and disconnect the battery. You should remove the battery at this point and place it in a safe area. 4.) you will need to remove the two covers on the right and left inner rear fenders. They are forward of the rear wheels and they will give you access to some vital areas. They are held in by some phillips screws and at least one 10mm nut. 5.) pull the battery wires out of the battery trey, also at this point disconnect the ECU and the regulator. The reason for doing this is that you will have to remove the large plastic cover under the seats and engine. Don't forget to remove the engine cover, it is held in place by two plastic turn screws. I have included a pic of the plastic area for you to better understand. Item 19 is the battery cover, Item are the two rear plastic covers by the rear wheels that need to be removed. Item 16 is the actual engine cover, and item 22 is the large plastic lower cover that needs to be removed to gain access to the engine, cover and fuel tank. 6.) you will need to undo the lower 4 point harness points and simply flip the seat belts back into the rear cargo area. 7.) USE CAUTION WHEN REMOVING THE LARGE LOWER COVER!!! it is brittle and will crack or break with little effort. ( trust me I know ) After you remove the large lower cover and wipe the sweat from your brow lol. you can now gain access to the engine, the clutch cover and all the needed parts to remove the CV belt. 8.) You will now need to remove the cross over bar that the seat belts were connected to. It is held in place by two 10 mm bolts on each side. Note: you will have to fiddle and find a way to get it out from behind your intake. I simply removed the two bolts holding my throttle body down and then covered the intake tube to prevent anything from getting into the engine. I had to also remove the throttle cable as well. You will need to do this in order to get the fuel tank out of the way. This is the ONLY way to get to the CV belt cover. I have tried many ways. 9.) The one thing I did do at this point, is take the large lower cover and cut it in the middle. This did a couple of things for me. It make removing and replacing it easier, and it also make it so I only needed to remove one side at a time if I so needed. It has not caused me any problems since. I cut it right along the edge of the center on one side. Just my 2 cents here. 10.) At this point, you'll need to remove the two bolts holding the fuel tank in place. Take care to understand, if the tank is full, you might have to remove the right side cover, as you cannot remove the fuel tank with the fuel cap on as the hole is not large enough. And pulling on the plastic might end in a broken part. You will not have to disconnect the fuel line, as you are only pulling the fuel tank up and out enough so that you have access to the clutch side cover. NOTE: take pictures if you are not real sure of how things go back together. This always helps. 11.) go under and remove the skid plate covering the rear engine area. this will give you access to the lower bolts needed. This would also be a great time to do an oil change, as you are already there. 12.) With the fuel tank up and out of the way, you know have access to the right side clutch cover. FINALLY! You can now remove the 10mm bolts holding it on. 13.) Now, following the factory manual, you will need to insert two 6mm threaded bolts and screw them down on the rear clutch face. There are two threaded holes on the face. This will force the clutch open and allow the belt to relax in its position. Now, with it loose, the manual says you can simply slide the belt off and replace it with a new one after inspection. I have found that this is not the case at times. I have had to at times remove the forward clutch assembly. As it is easier to access the 17mm nut than the rear one. Once I pull the front clutch off, the belt came right off! WHEW!!!!!!! 14.) Now, just replace the belt and do everything in reverse lol. I know it sounds like a lot of work, and believe me, it is. But it does a couple of things here. One, you won't need to replace this belt very often as there is not a ton of torque on it. Second, it gives you a great knowledge base of your unit, and having this is great when you are out and something goes wrong. Third, if you find anything loose from the factory or not in spec, now would be the time to correct it, now when you are stuck in the dunes or in the back woods. All in all it will take a couple of hours to knock it out if you know what you are doing. I would plan on an nice Saturday or Sunday to get this done as it does require your time and energy. I will post some other how to files soon, if there is anything you would like to see, just let me know and I will try to do that first. Matt

Hello there again, Just some more advice to those owning these fun machines. We rolled our unit during testing out at Dumont dunes, no one was hurt and the unit was pretty much un damaged. But some things to watch out for that I have learned. One; after being upside down, check the oil level, some oil can leak out of the crankcase vent tube casing the oil level to become low. This in return can cause damage to the engine due to lack of proper lubrication. Second; Oil can leak back into the CV belt cover since they share the shame ventilation tube as the intake, and as oil can return into the intake after a roll over, it can in reality seep back into the CV belt case. this would cause the belt to become saturated with engine oil. We noticed our unit smoking some after being rolled over. Upon inspection, we found the CV belt to be wet with oil. As a result we needed to replace the belt early. Also it might cause your clutch pads to become wet with oil, thus causing the clutch not to work well. I found a lot of burnt off clutch material on the CV rear cover only after removing the entire clutch assembly. So, as a person who has already experienced this first hand, I am just saying to check things if you ever do roll it over, it will save you time and money later on. It is not easy changing the belt, trust me.

Another spot to check out is the OEM chain, it is not the best quality. I understand during manufacturing you make thousands of these things. To meet certain price points you have to use a quality that meets your requirements, but is not always the best due to price. I would recommend replacing it with a nice O ring chain. A good quality chain will make your sprockets last longer as well.

Hello there, just a note to those owning these fun machines. Remember to remove and lube the front A arm bushings. They are plastic from the factory and are pretty dry if any lube at all. To make them last, I would take them out and lube them up well to make them last and work well. I am trying to source some aftermarket bushings, and think I have found a source, but working out the details, so in the mean time, R&R those plastic things sooner than later, or you'll regret it.