dnastauf

ASame problem on my 2014 R2, read a post on the internet about the wire from the starter to the solenoid not carrying enough voltage all the time to pull the solenoid in all the way. The fix was to install a secondary relay. Wonder how many starters they sold for that problem? That goes all the way back to the VW.

Same problem on my 2014 R2, read a post on the internet about the wire from the starter to the solenoid not carrying enough voltage all the time to pull the solenoid in all the way. The fix was to install a secondary relay. You can go to any parts store and purchase one. I got a 30 amp one from O'Reilly Auto parts. They are only about 1in square with 4 or 5 terminals. You take the wire off the starter solenoid and run it to the one side of the coil terminal on relay, other coil terminal to ground, run wire from the hot post from starter solenoid to relay terminal one side of of normally opened and the other side of normally opened to the start terminal on solenoid. You will need some wire and terminal ends.

Here's something to look at, this happened to me on a 2014 R2 I bought used. I had weak a spongy brakes so I tried to bleed them and kept getting air out the system. I had a vacuum pump and even went and bought a pneumatic brake bleeder, still was getting air bubbles. So I pulled off the master cylinder. While doing this I noticed that the rod from the brake pedal to the master cylinder was at a down angle. I then took the master cylinder apart and found scoring on bottom of the piston and the cylinder bore. I replaced the master cylinder and changed the rod position and it now works fine.

Anyone ever try buy a wiper kit for a newer Renegade? Well I did and what a hassle it was until I contacted Borossi Motors LTD in Europe. First I contacted Joyner USA and they flat out told me Joyner doesn't make one. After I found a part number for one for a 2008 R2 800 (I didn't think there could be too much of a difference), I contacted Silverbullit. There I was told we don't use part numbers and basically Joyner doesn't make a wiper kit. So check Borossi Motors and guess what, they actually had one advertized in their parts and accessories. It even had the same part number I gave silverbullit. So I thought I'd give them another chance. This time I got they have to, they use them like cars, I've been in business for 15 years and might of had two calls for wipers, it must be aftermarket, and last but not least Borossi is a good dealer you might as well buy it from them. Well I did, it cost me $155 USD, came in two weeks and plugs right in. The only thing I'm changing is going to silicone wiper blade, don't have a glass windshield. NO WONDER TEAM JOYNER USA WENT UNDER

I adjusted the idle screw and made sure MAP sensor and throttle body were clean( just for general maintenance ). It now idles at 900rpm and starts everyone without stepping on throttle. Thanks for the help, I would never have thought just adjusting idle would make such a difference. One other question, I realize you are a Joyner parts dealer. Is there any wiper kit avaialbe for my Joyner? And again Thanks for the help.

If I set the idle up what what happens when the engine warms up. It idles right on 900 once it hits around 140 degrees.

I,m new to this, but here is my story. I recently purchased a used 2014 1100 R2 with 293 miles. The original owner was a mechanic and made some mods to it, but I'm the guy who has to straighten them out. Would you believe he put an aftermarket turbo on it and because he couldn't line up the waste gate actuator he just put a spring on the waste gate lever to a bolt on the block.You want to talk about boost. That has been fixed. Now for the current problem. When I first got it the only way it would start was if you stepped on gas to start it. Followed some of the tips on this forum and replaced IAC step motor. It now starts fine, but on cold start after about 5 or 10 seconds drops down 500 rpms and hardly stays running until it hits about 140 degrees. I have check the CTS and I just want to make sure I have it right. Some of the instructions in the manuals are a little cage. I checked the resistants between terminal a and c and get no resistants, c and b was 19.75 which is about right concidering it was 27 degrees C. If I'm reading the manual a and c is for the ECU and c and b are for the gage. So I guess that my ECU is not getting any signal, so it isn't richening the mixture when could. Am l correct or not?