Travis

That's the main selling point behind them. although it seems people have found some unintended benefits such as quicker throttle response.. (or placebo)

Iridium is better than copper, but platinum isn't as good as copper. Conduction wise. both have a higher melt point than copper tho. according to NGK.

they use less voltage compared to platinum and copper, so if your coil is not sparking as hot as when it was new, it won't be as heavy of an electrical load, is what it sounds like, it also creates a more concentrated flame and combustion area. I've thought about trying one in mine, some people note a better throttle response.

Honda does sell an autochoke assembly, for the GX engines, however i have never worked on one or seen one installed on one. You could probably contact Honda and get instructions and information about it. https://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-Governing-Bracket-Chinese-Generator/dp/B07F66GXJC/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=honda+gx390+auto+choke&qid=1640793133&sr=8-4

UV rays from the sun work overtime on ATV plastics.

I'm getting a small area of rust starting behind each front wheel, (where the cow pies get slung). I'm pleased with the job POR15 did in the bed, so i will just repeat the process in that area. however, i'm not sure how POR15 will hold up to cow crap getting slung on it.. and my reasoning is Cow poo is somewhat acidic, and when left too long with out cleaning off, starts to lift paint, so i don't know how that will affect POR15. what i'm thinking of doing getting steel sheeting with aluminum finish, or a stainless steel sheet and bend it and fit it to the inside of the wheel well to form somewhat of a "splash/splatter" guard to protect the actual frame and sheet metal from further corrosion as well as were I ....there are several places where i could tack weld it to the frame underneath...

Kawasaki sells their 4010 models in a 4 seat conversion with standard cargo bed as well a Polaris with their Ranger Crew. Those would be the top 2 used models i would look at. Possible the polaris ranger crew would be better as it has a little more suspension travel and supposed smoother ride. Honda does sell a 4 seater,, but they sacrificed the cargo bed for 2 more seats, so there is very little room for storage, unless you pack it all on the roof.

I'm not sure where it is locate on that specific machine, but it will similar to this one, if not the same one. https://www.kqmotorparts.com/atv-body-parts/hisun-500-700-voltage-regulator.html

Could be the voltage regulator. Its job is to change the AC current from the stator to DC, and regulate it between 12 and 15 volts output as needed at different amperages as needed. This machine should still be under warranty.

Santa brought me a new Ultrasonic Cleaner, 3,2L. Perfect for Small engine carbs and other mechanical parts.

Sorry i just now saw this... I think you're right about the stator... When you remove it, or have it removed, i would check to be sure the rotor is still strongly magnetized as well. should pull in and hold a heavy screwdriver. take a look here https://www.partsboss.com/Bennche-Parts/TB410_GENERATOR_B

^ you took the words from my mouth,..

Merry Christmas to all and to all a good night!!

Cool, glad it you found the problem. Merry Christmas!

See if this HISUN manual looks correct for your machine, i don't have any experience with those machines, however i would be looking for a blown fuse, or even possibly a faulty ignition switch not sending the appropriate electrical signals when you turn the key to start.

x2 Valvoline makes a good ATV oil for wet clutches https://www.valvoline.com/our-products/motor-oil/4-stroke-atv-utv-motor-oil

woops, i forgot to add this pic last night, theres the adjustment screw on the left side with the flathead slot. ...

Every battery is interchangeable, except never use a gel cell (AGM's are fine) in place of a automotive,UTV or mower battery as they need to be removed and charge at low charge rate, and are made for Very high discharge applications. Most batteries come in Group sizes, but mainly you need to make sure you match t or beat the cranking amps, You should be able to take that battery to any auto parts store and they should have one that will work. Also you'll save money (about $15) buy not paying a core charge on the old battery. (they'll recycle your old battery).

It could be a fault in the carb, a lot of the aftermarkets aren't very strict on quality control. the main jet could be oversized a few thousandths and that would affect running. The only adjustments on these Honda carbs, besides the Idle speed adjustment, is the Mixture screw on the side of it, Some of these have them, some of them don't. If your carb has this adjustment screw, the proper way to set it is to warm the engine up, and adjust that screw in or out, until the engine reaches it's highest Idle RPM, that's where the engine is getting the most fuel. you can turn the screw in about 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn that will lean the mixture out just a little bit. you may now need to readjust the idle RPM with the plastic screw on top of the carb. If it still runs rich after this, most likely there is a issue with the aftermarket carb, i had a problem finding a carb to fit the GX390 on my pressure washer, i finally bought a OEM Honda carb.

I would remove the shift linkage, and put in gear by hand/manually, if possible, and drive it... if it still jumps out of gear, i would suspect a trans issue. If not, most likely the shift linkage needs adjusted to compensate for wear, as it's not fully engaging F or R

Do you know the model of the honda engine? But before blaming the carburetor, i would remove the spark plug and look at the electrode end, if it's really dark/black. that would verify the carburetor is running too rich.

Hope everyone has a Merry Christmas and a Happy New year!!

i remember a thread on here awhile back where someone else was having that issue.. i can't remember the solution though, i will have to search for it. i also think alot of heat now comes from engines running leaner to meet environmental regulations, and lean engines run hotter.

Have you personally tested for water in the fuel? to be sure the shop isn't BS'ing with you? all you need is a clear container, siphon some fuel out of the tank into the container and let it sit about 10 minutes.... you will see a line form (phase seperation) in the gasoline, on top will be gas and on bottom will be water (and ethanol if you use E fuel)