Travis

Wow that is quite a leak! Whenever i have trouble diagnosing an oil leak, i use the UV dye... because oil leaks don't always come from where you think they are. I repaired a briggs engine with it, another "pro" shop replaced the crankcase gasket, oil seals etc, to stop a leak that gathered dirt all under the engine, i removed the engine, cleaned it up really good. put it on a test stand, put some dye in the oil, and within a few minutes, an $2.00 O-Ring that seals the oil pump cover began weeping oil... very rare for one of those to leak.

maybe this will explain it better....

It does make sense to add a support to it... i see a hole drilled down below and to the left of the pipe, or drill a new hole right below the pipe if possible, you might can buy some 1/8" or 3/16 flat stock, bend it at a small L shape, drill through the short piece of the L, and use a bolt and nut to secure it to the machine... not sure how you would attach it to the exhaust, unless you put another bend in where it puts a slight amount of pressure upwards on it, or bend it at an L to run parallel to the exhaust pipe underneath for a few inches, and use an exhaust clamp to secure it to the pipe.. that may work.

I thought your username was familiar to me... you might know me better as Scrubcadet10 on the mylawnmower forum, you had the submerged craftsman? I cant find a diagram to look at how the exhaust is set up on it, do you mind posting a few pictures?

Baldwin Filters also provides air,oil and fuel filters for Kawasaki Mule's Parts Look up -----> https://www.baldwinfilters.com/portal/site/Baldwin/menuitem.cbbae88e045ce676de8fe6de4256d1ca/?vgnextoid=35f91ef39676a610VgnVCM10000025651dacRCRD&vgnextfmt=EN#/

Welcome to the UTV Board!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SHOCK-FRONT-COIL-UTV-ABSORBER-UTV-800-HS800-MSU-HiSUN-MASSIMO-Bennche-2013-Up-/201702084316 Motorcycledoctor sells quite a few Hisun parts..

well, every connection related to the starting system has been replaced, and there is still a drop in the current. and the wiring harness on this thing.... they've got it tucked and shoved around. i'm just tired of dealing with it and hopefully this can remedy the issue. maybe one day when i have the time i'll do it right and either replace the harness or replace the wires themselves for the starting system only,

Okay, here's something i'm going to try for the sake of trying it.. and maybe it might help out some other folks if they ever have this problem. I found that John deere sells what they call a "Starter improvement Relay" for issues when there is a voltage drop in the trigger/starter circuit. Why does this work? Because the solenoid on these engines pull a few amps and hence cause too much of a voltage drop to fully pull it in. What this kit does is put a heavy duty relay right near the starter and solenoid and the coil field of this relay draws much less current. Less current >> less voltage drop through the components in the trigger circuit(switches, connections, etc) so it has no problem pulling in when you go to start. When it does, it connects the trigger wire from the solenoid right to the battery voltage available at the solenoid. https://www.amazon.com/AM107421-Improvement-Starter-Replacement-Models/dp/B08JGLPMQ2/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=john+deere+starter+improvement+relay&qid=1621357095&sr=8-3

If you change the air intake it will most likely void the warranty. if a component isn't sealed correctly ( i.e., starts sucking in dust) that will wipe out the cylinders pretty quick and you'll start burning oil and lose compression. i would contact your dealer and see if there are any filter systems that will NOT void the warranty that are a upgrade.

seems joyner parts are a little hard to come by as far as dealer networks go... try here http://joyner-usa.com/joyner-parts/

does it have seatbelts? if you aren't using them, try buckling them and see how fast it goes.

Slick looking machines...

Welcome! Being so new that information probably isn't widely loose on the internet, I'd give your local Polaris dealer Tech/Parts department a call and they should be able to look it up and tell you...

i would contact American Landmaster, and see if you can get the dimensions of the belt (length, width, thickness) and go from there

i did think about putting it on the plastic shroud that goes over the gear shift and diff lever and choke cable just left and below the seat but it's kind of prone to weeds and briars grabbing it and weather, of course a waterproof switch will be used.

What gauge wire do you think I should use? I was reading online that starter solenoid triggers can draw up to 10 or 12 amps. The original trigger wire appears to be 18 or 20 gauge.....i think.. Thinking of 16 gauge probably... Since i have distance to consider.

I'm done with this thing..... i thought it wasn't going to start today, turn the key, click. turn the key, click, turn the key click, about 30 times... the battery voltage would drop about 1/2 a volt when i turned the key to start and it would hit... then it started about 3 or 4 times with no problem.... I'm confident it is not a physical Flywheel ring gear /starter gear issue as i did an experiment where i marked on the flywheel with a sharpie what position it would be in when the starter would not turn over, and it never was in the same spot. I'm confident it's not the starter or solenoid as i've bench tested them according to the manual and the good folks at O'reilly's have tested my starter and load tested the battery. I think the wiring is just not quite able to carry the load to mesh the flywheel and starter gear since it's the solenoids job to pull it in and mesh it. and of course when i short from the + lug on the starter to the trigger tab, it will spin every time, all day long with no issue. I'm trying to think of a way i can bypass the entire starting system/circuit..... what i'm thinking of doing is run a hot wire from the battery, to a momentary push button switch on the dash. and run a wire from the switch to the starter solenoid trigger tab. so when you want to start it, turn the key to on so you can have power to accessories and so the ignition will work, then to start it, press that button. and maybe one day when i get time, i'll buy a new wiring harness for the old gal... RM atv has them for $150.. so that's not too bad of a dent in the pocketbook. Plus after 20 years of being outdoors in this southeast Texas humidity... i'm sure thats an issue.

if you have a electrical meter/tester set it to continuity, (beeps when you touch the probes together) and use that to check the fuses.

Oh by the way, here is the tool i used. Compared to the $40 Kawasaki tool C spanner shock adjuster

got them adjusted down, rides pretty smooth now, not like a cadillac, but better than it was... especially over a stretch of trail by the pond where the ground always stays hard and rough.

I'm not finding one anywhere..... you might contact cub cadet and try to figure out who made the transmission. I'm almost certain Cub cadet didn't build the trans. Probably Spicer/Dana, or Tuff Torq.

Okay, i finally found a Chinesium tool to fit the notches properly on the shock absorber. I would like to soften the ride up so it's not *as* bumpy. Now I''m thinking, if i want to make it ride smoother i would lessen the spring tension, correct so the spring has more spring to it and room to compress??? but the table shows if it's bad terrain, to put it on a higher notch. What say y'all?

History of the MULE.. i had to zoom in a little bit to read it. https://www.kawasaki.info/pdf/UV&RUV_HISTORY.pdf