Travis

Yes, that included the presumed corroded terminal, i've got some good crimpers from Northern Tool, they've done good. I'm kind of confused though, as all the wires go into a plastic connector with the male terminals on one side, Female terminals on the other, Not quite sure how to remove it.

i was also noticing, on the connector for the white wire (which provides 12v from the batt) that comes from the keyswitch, i see what looks like blue/green corrosion starting on the connector.

Okay. I did the test Cliff outlined above, nothing spectacular, all read 0 resisantce However, the White and Brown wire, key on showed 02.3 Ohms.

👍 Smartypants 😉

Welcome! I Didn't know there was such a thing. Someone on here might know.

Hope so. i wish there was a test for the switch , like you can test the circuit relay, but the keyswitch is all sealed up, and no testing procedures are listed in the manual.

Going on 3 days with no problems. Freaking weird. Put about 12 starts on it today

Here's my personal terms for the following items, RELAY SOLENOID

Watcha getting from California? a present? FOR ME? AWW SHUCKS

I actually replaced it last year due to it went bad, as it totally cuts power to the solenoid at the relay. But i will try that.

that's probably the case as i'm not finding anything.

Another question for the UTV Board populace, anyone know if a plexi glass hardcoat is available for purchase? I know They sell windshields with a hard coat to prevent future scratches but is it cost effective or even possible for a average Joe to do this?

It's done it with 3 different solenoid, but that is a good idea. Test, don't assume.

So i guess if the ignition switch don't work i'll start on new wires for the starter circuit and connections.

I ordered a knock off ignition switch the other day, supposed to be here in a few days.

I looked up the original MSRP and it was $14,199, at 628 hours, if it has been well taken care of and fluids changed when they're supposed to, i'd say it should have plenty of life left. You can probably get another 1,000 hours out of the engine, at least. And it's not like Polaris is going out anytime soon so parts should be readily available when it does break down.

did you replace the head gasket?

the Original MULE windshield is 20 years old, and has seen better days. It's filled with tiny scratches. and it's foggy while day driving and hard to see at night with the lights on. Well, Novus 2 fixed that! https://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-Plastic-Fine-Scratch-Remover/dp/B002UD0GGS/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=novus+28oz&qid=1615663960&s=automotive&sr=1-4 my windshield looks almost 99% new, i was astonished at the difference. i tried it on a small area first to be sure of no adverse affects, and then did the entire both sides of the windshield and it looks great! I highly recommend it, and it's way cheaper than plexi or Lexan sheet. post some pics later.

okay so this is funny, Starter clicked today, so i decided to, while the was held in START, to wiggle some wires around, first i started where the ignition switch plugs in, no worky, then wiggled and pulled at the relay, no worky. i got back to the solenoid, to wiggle the trigger wire. the trigger wire was warm and the solenoid was HOT. i couldn't lay a finger on it. starter was warm, but it felt like residual engine heat. so, wonder why the starter solenoid was that hot? the whole time of wiggling wires, before i discovered it was hot was about 10 seconds. the relay was also a bit warm. i felt of the main + and - cables on the battery and they were cool. EDIT: Went out to start it again, and it hit, so i held the key down for about 15 seconds and it didn't get hot, like before.

new cable there also

i also checked voltage on the 2 wires going from the key switch plug in, to the relay plug in, when i turn the key on, it shows 12.45 volts, when i turn to start it goes up to what the battery reads currently, 13.2. same for trigger. of course who knows how many amps it's getting, its probably not a whole lot of amperage, its only 18 or 20 gauge wire. so probably around 4 amps or so? One thing i can say for certain, is after replacing the big main + cable, a few weeks ago, the issue is nowhere near as persistent as it was for awhile.

Same for the trigger wire from the relay plug in to the end of the wire at the starter.00.1 ohms