Travis

Thinking of putting one on the mule on the dash, just so i can have a constant check on voltage. I know just enough about electricity wiring to be dangerous, I'm assuming when i install it i can just run a + and - wire to it straight from the battery, correct? Anyone have a meter they recommend? any advice is appreciated.

LOL!

8 starts today and not a problem at all.

about 4 rolls of Gorilla tape, bring some glue in case we need to fix our hair too, LOL!

might want to look into the Polaris RZR series, they have engine braking. However, they're more sporty than work.

Great! Thanks cliffy

Come help me and I will, you bring the duct tape LOL

i think as random as it is, it may be a corroded/ bad crimp on a connection somewhere for the starter circuit.

anyone know what the difference is between a regular metal bit, and a plexiglass drill bit? Or is it all in the name ?

10 starts today and not a problem.

i've thought about that, one simple thing i may try is put a new connector on the trigger wire at the solenoid, since it's the most exposed, and maybe go from there.

nope, might've held my tongue just right though, LOL

8 starts today and not a problem.

well apparently my meter will not read voltage when not grounded. Tried with a klein tester and a cheaper chinese one too. so what i did is check voltage at the battery, while cranking, holds at 11.9, same at the starter lug while cranking. and what is happening when the starter gear hits the flywheel, that's preventing the solenoid from closing fully. but i really don't think it's doing it because of misalignment or something, because when it starts to happen , it seems to do it fairly frequently. just wonder if sometimes the solenoid isn't getting enough amps through the trigger to completely pull in.

nope, Klein selectable set on DC 20 max

the only thing is my meter will not read voltage going from + to + or - to -..... i suppose i could check from battery+ to ground while cranking, and then from starter + to ground?

is that with key on or while cranking?

so black lead to +battery and red lead to + starter, correct?

ah okay, i gotcha. now

That measurment was taken from the + on the starter to ground and the + on the battery to ground, same voltage both times, while cranking. that's about the usual amount of drop i get on other small equipment. you know, thinking back a little bit, i wonder if i ought to try shimming the starter back a little bit, because the way the starter system works, the gear is connected to the solenoid, so when the solenoid pulls back, it pushes the gear outwards, and i wonder if it's too close to the flywheel gear it won't spin to mesh because the gear is hitting so the solenoid can't make the contact to pass power through the starter. BUT, if that were the case, why does it work perfect 60% of the time?

I got my dads good l klein tester, and it shows some breaky continuity From battery + to battery - key off or on,

Okay, i ohm'd the wiring in the starter circuit, (trigger wire, wires going to starter relay from key switch, 0 resistance. Here's something that is very strange though. when i first hooked my meter to the battery, it was on auto range, i did +lead to positive post, - lead to negative post and the meter went to continuity and started buzzing!! WHAT??? continuity between the + AND - posts battery never has acted weak on start ups in the morning like it's being drained or anything. , charging voltage is showing 13.2 at idle, raising with engine rpm.

so i guess i need to figger out if, is it a PHYSICAL issue, like a bad gear tooth or something, which all teeth on pinion and ring gear look excellent and uniform, or a power supply issue.