Travis

AND THE SUSPECT IS..<DRUM ROLL> The CHEAP CHINESE STARTER GEAR. My dad helped me today, we tried lubing and cleaning, never worked, cleaned all the relay connections etc. then we installed the starter, hooked everything up. BUT left the starter un bolted, and sitting ontop of the engine (ran a alligator clip from the solenoid bolt to ground), it spun up every time, closer inspection the so called "steel" gear has kind of mushroomed on the end of the teeth. the flywheel teeth are good. so i guess the gear was hanging on the flywheel enough to not let the solenoid retract all the way and that's why tapping the starter, NOT the solenoid would work. i'm debating either filing them a bit, OR, i can purchase the OEM Kawasaki gear on ebay for 25 bucks. that gear should fit this starter as the starter is a copy of the original. that's what i'm hoping.

14.4 is plenty. usually as long as your at least 13 volts it idle, you're good. as a B&S Tech i know says, "the alternator is made for maintaining, not charging a dead battery"

I haven't had time to look at it, probably will tomorrow morning.

How can we know this is legit and not a scam?

Has everyone gotten their PRO's yet?

i would check for continuity on the wire it protects, from the wire to ground just in case any insulation has been wore off.

That's what I was thinking

I took my rubber mallet out earlier and held the key in start position and tapped on the starter motor itself, not the solenoid. And it kicked over after about 3 good taps.

Yeah, I still have the old DB electrical starter,

new, but made in Chyna. never heard back from the seller. which is a huge red flag, cause it literally started acting up like 3 days after the 1 month replacement guarantee ran out.

I'm also wondering if it's a mechanical issue, in the starter. because after the previous starter went out, and i replaced it with this starter, it worked great for about 4 weeks.

i've got a test light, i might try and see what voltage, if any, i get to the 2nd post of the solenoid (that goes to the starter motor) when it clicks.

the wires that come into the starter circuit relay, i've check for continuity, nothing to ground, (no shorts) i failed to mention, i was only able to clean where the switch wires plug into the harness, not the switch itself, appears to be all one piece. Kawasaki wants $75 for a key switch. Cheapos on Scamazon are $30. i reall don't want to keep throwing money at this. I really don't see how it could be anything else as all it is is 2 wires on the solenoid, big battery cable and the trigger wire, the trigger wire has the correct voltage as spec'd by the manual (battery voltage). EDIT: even when the solenoid clicks, i still get the correct voltage on the trigger wire.

The battery only drops to 12.2 when starting. bad batteries usually drop below 10V, plus when it does start. it spins over quick. battery is a New Yuasa from the dealership back in the spring time.

Could be, i will do that, but i still get battery voltage to the trigger wire like i'm supposed to.

just finished cleaning the keyswitch plug in and contacts, they were all clean... no difference.

yes

i may just try cleaning the ignition switch contacts too.... it's easy enough to get to.

here's what the troubleshooting section says. Fuse: only 1, it's good. Wiring open or shorted: i have visually checked wiring, and checked for continuity from starting circuit wires to ground. none. relays not contacting or operating: circuit relay ohms out good neutral switch: functions properly to me it seems like if if the full battery voltage is making it to the 1 trigger wire, the wiring should be good.

I have no idea what to do... started up great 3 times, then click click click click. I get 12.75 volts at the trigger wire, and 12.75 volts at the + post on the solenoid (drops to just above 12v when starting) with the key in the start position. If it were the relay i doubt i would get full battery voltage on the trigger wire. i do not think its the neutral switch since when i put in F or R with the key in the start position the solenoid clicks back since power is cut to it, then clicks again when i put it back to neutral. I even re-tested the starter circuit relay, it checks out good.

Ordered the solenoid but apparently the seller was away, but it's being delivered today. It's gotten to where it clicks no less than 10 times before it starts, and as much as 25 probably. but if i tap it with the my pliers while the key is in start it will eventually kick off.

Oooh, do that first T-boss, that completely slipped my mind.

as long as you get the correct CCA i don't see why not.

Does it have seat/ safety belts?