Travis

Any updates?

you might think about towing a trailer with the tank etc, i believe the Pro has a stronger towing capacity than cargo bed weight.

Hi Dolly, did you ever get your smoking issue fixed?

Welcome Mick, Glad you joined us!

i believe the clock should do it automatically when their is a fault

I would take some measurments, with the old tires installed, and see how much clearance you have with the dump bed closed and open, and the front fenders when turning. then go from there.

¿Sin chispa? ¿Utiliza esto una bobina de encendido como una cortadora de césped que dispara desde el volante, o como un automóvil que usa encendido por batería con un distribuidor y una bobina? https://www.hisunmotors.com/ aquí está el sitio web de Hisuns, puede intentar ponerse en contacto con ellos. No spark? Does this use a ignition coil like a lawnmower that fires off from the flywheel, or like a car that uses battery ignition with a distributor and coil? https://www.hisunmotors.com/ here is Hisuns website, you may try contacting them.

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might try measuring the O.D. of the valve stem , might could compensate for some wear with new valves. But of course if the guide bore I.D. is too large then that won't work.

95 psi sounds good enough since this engine has an automatic compression relief. Be sure to purchase a cylinder hone so you can crosshatch the cylinder. https://www.cubcadetpartsnmore.com/Parts-Lookup.html#/Kawasaki/KAF540-C1_Mule_2010/CRANKSHAFT%2f%2fPISTON/b8057cd2-23b8-4c1f-8caf-28d63ba14baf/b3d441b2-e78c-4a18-9cd9-363cf9b22c3b/y They show the rings in stock for 44$, i've ordered other Cub Cadet and Kohler parts from these folks before.

Yes, they will need to be installed and reamed by a machinist. Or Kawasaki did sell a special tool for guide reaming, P/N 57001-162 but good luck finding it. might could ask a local Kawasaki dealer. I remember back when i did my mule, one of the valve guides (exhaust i think) moved in the head, so went ahead and bought 2 new guides, the machinist didn't have the right reamer, so they measured the I.D. and found it within spec so they just pressed the guide back down, it's stayed so far. What's wrong with yours?

are you referring to the dump bed?

Welcome to the UTV Board! I know an engine may burn a little oil while the piston rings are still being broke in, usually a break in period lasts 20 hours, ( but rings usually seat pretty quick) , keep an eye on the oil level just in a case there is a leak. Do you ever see smoke, or just smell burnt oil?

There's been so many people having various Quality control problems with these Coleman/HiSun machines it's not even funny... I hope they get everything right for you.

gas pouring out the vent hose,,,, sounds like the float/ float needle isn't metering the fuel flow to the carburetor... i read that most Coleman's have a 2 year warranty, sounds to me like you need to save some headache, file a warranty claim, for the running issues, and the crap QC. Or contact Coleman (which i think is manufactured by HiSun motors) and ask them if they've ever heard of the Lemon Law.

Could be water in the fuel, either empty some gas from the unit into a clear container, or the can you fill them up with, and let it sit for about 10 minutes, see if there is any sepration as the water and ethanol will form a line between the gasoline.

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Yes, they wanted me to supply the brushes etc, whatever comes in the rebuild kit, i guess since it's a ATV they may not have the correct parts.... there really aren't a lot of shops around me that work on atv's except for actual dealerships, no independent "mom and pop" type places, but i'm pretty good with mechanical stuff. but yes, i think i will replace just the solenoid with the OEM part. Thanks for the suggestion on talking to a shop about rebuilding the starter, that helped me make my mind up. sometimes i just need a good kick in the hind end to get in gear, lol.

I think i may have a solution, today i did some testing and just ran power straight to the starter motor by passing the solenoid, just off and on for about 3 seconds each time and did it about 12 times or more, of course the solenoid didn't kick the gear out since i unhooked power from it, but the starter motor spun up strong everytime with no hesitation, so that leads me to believe the motor is good, but there's something funky with the solenoid... i found a Genuine Kawasaki (Denso) starter solenoid for it on Ebay for 59.99. I could just try replacing the solenoid with an OEM part.. alot cheaper than a new starter... BTW i did get in contact with a local auto shop who does work like that and they told me they wanted me to provide the "rebuild kit" brushes and what ever else comes with it, i've seen rebuild kits for the Kawasaki starters, but not sure if they'd work on one from CHYNA.

Did this problem start after you installed the CPS? And does the motor have fuel injectors, or just a carburetor?

Maybe, the Original Denso number is Denso 128000-9980. and it seems like every other starter comes from Wee Fewl Yu.

you're sick of chinese Crap but really can't afford the good OEM part? Starter on the mule, i finally replaced the old D&B electrical starter (on august 28th) on it that was at least 5 years old with probably a million starts on it and apparently D&B no longer makes it/sells it, so i bought a $53 starter from CHYNA on amazon.. on august 19th, well here it is barely 1.5 months later, it clicks several times before it will spin over, all connections were good and i tested the key switch, and trigger wire voltage as well as the starter relay according to the service manual and they all check out. usually a tap with a hammer or if i turn the key back and forth fast several times it will kick in and start. would it be worth my time to remove the starter and lube it?? I've got the Denso and Kawasaki part numbers but boy... $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ even a Reman denso is $230. does anyone know of a decent aftermarket starter maker that might have one? i've 12.5 volts at the big cable, and i get the same at the trigger wire as the manual states, but when its in F or R i get no voltage at the trigger, so i know the Neutral safety is working properly. and if anyone can find one the DB starter was 190-542 18450

By the way, Welcome to the UTV board!

Here ya go, 30C3750, i cross reff'd the Dayco part number on Gates' website. https://duckduckgo.com/?q=gates+https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FGates-30C3750-G-Force-C-12-Belt%2Fdp%2FB00CFBSOAU&t=newext&atb=v236-1&ia=web

I had trouble with a Dayco CVT belt on my mule (and other dayco belts in general), switched to Gates. works flawless now.