Quantcast
Jump to content


Travis

Members
  • Posts

    2,801
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    191

Everything posted by Travis

  1. hope this makes it easier for folks to find parts... wasn't PT sold UTV parts. https://www.partstree.com/categories/utility-vehicles/cub-cadet/
  2. oh ,we've got a 20 ton press, but you might could get a drift in their to knock them out... didnt think of that! Can't press them out due to the ridges they bottom out on. once the first one was out of the way the 2nd was easy peasy.
  3. Looks good roger! Good pattern on the crosshatch! Be sure to clean block out well with parts cleaner and soapy warm water, get all of that honing grit out of there!
  4. i used PIVOT WORKS part number, PWFWK-K36-000 Okay, first step..... Remove the wheel.... 4 lug nuts. then jack the front end up and support it with jackstands and chock the rear wheels. remove the axle nut mud cover. get a 1 1/6" socket to remove the axle nut... Don't forget to remove the cotter pin! you can use a breaker bar or impact to remove it. there is a spacer behind the axle nut, remove it also. now pull the drum off. sometimes it can be stuck on so spray some penetrating fluid between it and the backing plate, and tap it with a hammer while spinning it . you may have to use a 3 leg puller. Now that the drum/hub assembly is off, this is what you should see. the drum houses the bearings. there are 2 bearings, 1 spacer and 1 seal. the seal goes on the back of the drum, facing the brakes. the spacer goes in between the 2 bearings. Now, my manual and also my common sense told me to PRESS the bearings out. You CAN NOT press them OUT. there are 2 ridges that control the depth at which they are installed and you CAN NOT press them out.. you must use a slide hammer puller. and you have to do it 1 bearing at at a time. Don't worry, the spacer is supposed to move freely in the drum. I used the 3rd biggest puller attachment in the set. now that you have the old ones out clean the bore out with parts cleaner and a clean rag, and do the same to the spindle shaft on the mule., time to install the new ones!!! i recommend putting them in the freezer for about 30 minutes or more for ease of installation. they go in easier when cold. i used a flat piece of wood to drive them in straight and then a 13/16" socket to drive them into the ridge, they are about 3/8" below the surface. remember to do one bearing, install the spacer, then the other bearing, then the seal. the oil seal goes on the back side of the drum that goes against the backing plate on the mule. I recommend lubricating the seal lips and outer edge when installing into the drum assembly. now that the bearings are in time to Reinstall the drum! just slide it back over the spindle shaft until fully seated... install the axle nut spacer, axle nut and cotter pin. before you install the cotter pin, torque the axle nut to 110 ft lbs. reinstall the dust cap, tire, and lug nuts. lug nuts are torqued to 25 ft lbs, remove jackstands, let jack down, un chock the rear wheel. YOU ARE READY TO GO!
  5. The job is done!
  6. Well, UPS made me eat my words... Guess I'll finish school and start on that!
  7. just got an update from amazon, Wheel bearings are supposed to be here this THURSDAY now! woo hoo!
  8. i hear you never have to change the spark plugs on these new diesels!
  9. My manual gives 1.2MM (47 thousandths) as the maximum service limit, for top ring and second ring, there is also the thickness of the ring to consider, Top and 2nd rings: 1.44 MM (57 thousandths), says to measure in several different places and if the measured value is smaller than the listed number to replace the rings. i know its a pain in the rear to do, but i would remove the engine and have a machine shop mic the cylinder to check for wear, because it is common for the cylinder to wear more than the rings. But that's totally up to you to decide as what you want to do. I can't argue with buying a new ring set and honing it.
  10. I found 2 grease zerks I never knew it had,... They are On the front end, back side of where the tie rod comes from the steering, and it lubes the shaft that pivots the spindle and wheel to turn it.... And they are in the hardest place to see., Never mentioned in the owners or Service manual. wheel bearings are supposed to be delivered this Saturday.
  11. I'm really surprised HiSun doesn't make the manual available, as HiSun makes their own engines... I even looked on eBay for a paper copy, nothing. The next best thing to do is contact Cub Cadet and see what they can do for you..
  12. https://www.manualslib.com/products/Hisun-750utv-5544837.html If I remember correctly HiSun made the utv for Cub cadet, this covers everything, including periodic maintenance and repairs. I hope this helps.
  13. I searched the internet for quite awhile and couldn't Find anything pertaining to the issue,I would go to HiSun's website And contact them. Is it manual engagement Or electric switch?
  14. I think the cat is trying to find the Tail on the "Mule".
  15. I was able to find the pivot works kit on Amazon for 32.99....I'll take it over Kawasaki's $25 per bearing. Expect a detailed write up on it soon! And I found something on the Mule I've never seen before.....
  16. Plywood would be best... I've seen some people use those heavy moving blankets too.
  17. Motorcycle Dr. Sells HiSun parts http://www.motorcycledoctor.com/utv.htm
  18. Here ya go Buddy! https://www.utvboard.com/forum/61-odes-utv-sxs-forum/
  19. I looked on the pivots works kit some more, and the kit is 42.00 for BOTH sides. so all 4 needed bearings and 2 seals....may go with that. Lifetime guarantee.
  20. What a beauty! It will serve you well for many years to come.
  21. I think the front wheel bearings need replaced. Lately i've noticed some noise from the front end while driving.. jacked it up and both sides have considerable play. The passenger side more so. Kawasaki 92045-1170 replaces the bearing. its 2 per hub. which is 4. it's 25 bucks PER BEARING. which is $100 and some change for both sides. Kawasaki lists that the bearing used is a 60/22 2RS ball bearing. i can find them anywhere from $5 to $10, BUT i question the quality, no country of origin is disclosed. Pivotworks.com has a front set but its $42 for each side. 42+42= 84, so thats better than 100..... any one ever bought anything from pivot works? I checked the local auto parts stores for the bearing but nada. https://houseofkawasaki.dealerspikeparts.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b24b1f8700223e478dc0a/front-hubs-brakes http://www.pivotworks.com/ProductInfo.aspx?item_id=5819
  22. That probably was a shadow I was seeing in the bore. I know what you mean with the bolts...sometimes people go crazy with those impact guns! If you need any specifications give me a holler and I can get 'em.
  23. Welcome!!!!
×
×
  • Create New...