Travis

I believe this is The correct list http://joyner-usa.com/c2c4/

I would start with the piston. Fill the cylinder with diesel fuel and let it sit for about 5 days. Usually what I do is use a wooden dowel and small hammer and tap the piston lightly repeatedly. If that doesn't free it up i'd tear it down and see what needs replaced in the bottom end.

Wow that's a good idea! I'll have to try that!

Yes, the wear more On the bottom sides, and top. When I rebuilt mine, the machinist had to use a I think what he called a rigid hone to bring it back round. This is the spring compressor I used, https://www.amazon.com/8milelake-Spring-Compressor-Automotive-Repair/dp/B01CQGZHY4 One thing I suggest doing, but you don't have too, while the head is off and the valves are out, I would get some lapping compound and a lapper tool and lap the valves, it grinds the valve and seat together and provides a new,clean smooth sealing surface. You don't have to do it, but it's what I do when I'm that far into something. It definitely is odd that it happened over night. Some engines have minds of their own!

The decompresser on the camshaft bumps the exhaust valve when the starter is rotating the engine, once it fires off, due to centrifugal force, the bump on the decompresser that opens the valve slings away from the cam lobe and stays out of the way. it's possible that it might be a issue, but not likely. a leak down tester pumps air into the cylinder via the spark plug hole. Piston at TDC, with valves closed, you cut off the air, and remove either the exhaust or intake manifold first, and listen for air hissing out , if air is hissing from the carb side, intake valve or valve seat is toast. Sam for the exhaust. If no air is heard in any of these spots, remove the dipstick cap, if you hear air hissing in the crank case, the rings are shot. This video describes it well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l95j1pr7mg4

Welll, depends on what is seized, if the rings are toast, most likely that means the connecting rod and crank bearings weren't getting oiled either. it's not a 2 stroke is it?

https://www.harborfreight.com/cylinder-leak-down-tester-62595.html if you don't have one,A good leak down tester is about $60 +, but if you're not a mechanic, and using this every day, it ought to work just fine.

Hmm. what I would do, is reinstall the head and do a leak down test. That will tell you were compression is escaping.

Woops, posted twice

Plunge up by valve and Plunge up of HLA are not for yours. It's a FE290. Might also check they flywheel key..

Hmmm. so I assume by checking the valve clearance that you made sure the valves operated freely. Is your spark plug tight? I have a manual for both machine and Engine, I'll look in the troubleshooting sections and see what I find.

Yep I can agree . Rocky Mountain ATV beats just about everyone on pricing. Babbitts and RMATV are go to's. Thanks for posting your positive experience!

180 hours and the cam is wore out?????? Dang! They should give you the parts! Cams should do at least 1300 hours in a single cylinder small engine. If it's a chinese engine, they probably made them out of pot metal. I would look for a heavy duty diesel engine oil, like Rotella or Delo. They have what these smaller engines need, especially cams.

Never heard of it. I'll look it up. Apparently in businesses since 05, from California. Looking at their prices, if it were me I would go with the Big 4 of UTVs. Polaris, Kawasaki, Textron/arctic cat or Can Am. Because, Parts. None of the above companies are going anywhere any time soon, Parts are still easily sourced for models older than 15 years, they have good warranties, and are common, so getting help with possible repairs or modifications could be made easier.

I don't think this model uses points,I looked in the parts diagram, didn't see points, but it does have a coil and a trigger. is this dual or single carbs?

LMBO!

It has a Max speed of 56 MPH..

There is an air passage that runs through the carb and it terminates through that hose, most newer small engine carbs don't have them thanks to the EPA. Not really sure why it's there either.

i think it's an Polaris RZR 800 EFI. It looks like they started making them in 2012.

I notice there is a number on the front fender, I might can get the picture on my photo editor and clear up that number.

Sounds like it needs a good Carburetor cleaning.

Yep, that's definitely the carb float sticking...or some trash for stuck on the needle and held it open... Be sure to check your oil for gas smell, just in case it flooded into the cylinder.

Looks like a Polaris Bigfoot edition..... But joking aside, it's definitely Polaris RZR. Any other pictures?

I've been into my brakes a few times... The wheel cylinders are, from my dealer, $130 each. Check in the parts thread in this Kawasaki forum for other prices. there are some chinese ones on amazon for about $50 I think. once you get into the drum you can determine if the shoes need replaced. They might just need adjusted. Although brake fluid is kind of acidic and might eat away at the shoe material. it's fairly simple. The rear ones have the E brake cable, so that's 1 extra thing to look after. I would recommend buying a shop manual. I have one, I can post the page instructions here if you want me too.

It probably is possible to get a few extra MPH. Of course, the engine may already be capable of doing 50+, you just need to take that rotational power and put it to the ground. Via transmission and centrifugal clutches.. But going over a limited speed is tough on a CVT system drive belt since it heats up fairly quickly when running at a sustained speed. And can cause cracking and overall premature wear. I can also say for certain any modifications you do will most likely void the warranty.