Travis

Well, one problem is it's 440V, that engine is made to be a Vertical shaft engine. not a horizontal shaft, though it appears that way in the picture. So you will have to worry about getting oil to all the parts, and oil getting where it possibly should not be. And it pretty much won't replace a horizontal shaft without major modification. Better off looking at Briggs or Kohler, or another Kawasaki

I think a Japanese company called Nissin makes all the brake related products for Kawasaki. You might can contact them.

That's a handy little gadget. Thanks for sharing!

Whenever I encounter rusted fasteners I spray them down with Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster, You might read up on this https://evapo-rust.com/thermocure/ I have used their evapo rust product on countless items even gas tanks and knocks the rust out.

That's odd you can only get half of the coolant in. Might be talk with the dealer and see what they think. Glad you got the leak stopped!

Did you ever get the plugs installed?

Hydraulic lifters use oil pressure, and should be full of oil to perform properly. It's possible water or dirt got in them and that's what is clacking/causing them to clack. I know when cars get old and start to click is usually due to the lifters not holding good hydraulic pressure.

What does your camshaft look like? Does it have hydraulic lifters?

To be honest, the best thing to do will be to try them out. I know dealerships will usually let you schedule a test drive.

Each and every person will have a different opinion depending on what brands they have experienced. I would recommend a Kawasaki. I have one, it's a tank. The best thing to do is set a budget, and narrow every thing down. A good sight for honest reviews is ATV.com

Anyone want to lend me 20 grand? https://www.kawasaki.com/products/2020-Teryx-KRX-1000?cm_re=MPP-_-PRODUCTTRIMLIST-_-VEHICLEDETAILS I'll pay it back after 100 years I swear....😃

Wow!! Thats a huge difference!

Glad you got it working! I do not know about the 1000, I will do some reading and digging.

Leaking from the freeze plugs. Those indentions in the block are freeze plugs, Sand cores are used to form the internal cavities when the engine block or cylinder head(s) is cast. These cavities are usually the coolant passages. Holes are designed into the casting to support internal sand forms, and to facilitate the removal of the sand after the casting has cooled. Core plugs are usually thin metal cups press fitted into the casting holes, but may be made of rubber or other materials. In some high-performance engines the core plugs are large diameter cast metal threaded pipe plugs.[2] Core plugs can often be a source of leaks due to corrosion caused by cooling system water.[3] Although modern antifreeze chemicals do not evaporate and may be considered "permanent", anti-corrosion additives gradually deplete and must be replenished. Failure to do this periodic maintenance accelerates corrosion of engine parts, and the thin metal core plugs are often the first components to start leaking. Difficulty or ease of core plug replacement depends upon physical accessibility in a crowded engine compartment. In many cases the plug area will be difficult to reach, and using a mallet to perform maintenance or replacement will be nearly impossible without special facilities for partial or complete removal of the engine. Specialized copper or rubber replacement plugs are available which can be expanded by using a wrench when access is a problem, though engine removal may still be required in some cases. The term freeze plug is slang, the correct name of the press-in plugs is core plug. It is mistakenly thought that the purpose of these plugs is to be pushed out and save the block from cracking if the engine has water in it and it happens to freeze. This is nothing more than an urban legend.[citation needed] The purpose of the plugs is to fill the holes that were made during the casting process, so the foundry could remove the core sand from the coolant passages. Saving the block from cracking in case of a freeze was never the manufacturer's intent for these plugs. From Wikipedia. I think the only way to fix it is remove it and put a new one. Sometimes you can get by cleaning it good, but I do not recommend it. I think usually machine shops have to remove them and install them properly.

Yep, I had to do that to my Mule before

It will be best to call Tractor supply or Massimo and have them fix it. Since this problem is more than likely a factory fault .

I honestly can't explain how it works, I probably could If I have tore into the trans and watched how it works but haven't. It has something to do with that plunger making contact with something inside the trans and interrupting power supply What did the tip of your switch look like? Was it perfectly round, or showed wear? Also check and clean battery ground cable where it goes to the frame.

Welcome back rocmoc,always good too see old forum members show up. Sorry to hear about Jeff.😞

Great! Glad you got one.

My starter did that several years ago, just replaced it and that fixed it. Im not sure what the igniter wire is, my 550 dont have a igniter. i wonder if something is wrong with your ignition switch? are you using OEM starters or cheaper starters? another thing i would check is to rule out the neutral safety switch is while having the key in the start position, wiggle the gear shift back and forth a bit, since the safety switch interrupts power to the starter. Battery good?

I am not too familiar with your type machine, but if im thinking right they would go on the camshaft. Here's another thread about this issue, Thread <--- Click. But i do have to ask, have you checked your valve lash/clearance?

I found another forum that had someone with a similar problem and found this reply, "there is no way to disconnect the limiter, The engine is designed to rev as high as it can without causing damage, if you were to make it rev higher, the valves would float and come into contact with the piston,"

since all we know is it's a 2012 Hisun, we can't be 100% sure it is a rev limiter. What is the Model name? It should be like a Sector, or Vector etc.

what portion of the machine are we seeing? A wider view will be better.

Alright, there should be a kill wire that goes to the magneto, find it, and if possible un plug it, then try to start it. If it does something is wrong with the wire its self (shorting somewhere) or your ignition system, if does not start with The kill wire disconnected most likely a faulty coil. And did you set The air gap properly?