Travis

I think I found some, or at least the part number for them, http://www.partsatv.com/category-s/4770.htm

Definitely use new head bolts, About the head gasket, I looked for aftermarket, but they were all Chinese made and like $4 a piece. but there is this, not sure if pricing though https://coppergaskets.us

You won't get much better than OEM in my opinion as far as gaskets go. As far as studding the head, I'll say leave well enough alone.

That's definitely not what you want too see! Sorry it didn't work out better for you.

So if you maintain full throttle or close, and idle, it's fine, but going from idle to high rpm is when it Boggs and stumbles...correct?

Its possible, as old as these engines are, (15+) I would buy a inline spark tester, like one you would use on a Briggs engine, this is one like i have. you hook it up to the plug wire, and clip it to ground, or on the spark plug, if you've got a orange, yellow spark, coil is weak, if its blue or white, thats great! another thing could be a faulty spark plug, sometimes under higher pressure (such as revving the engine) the spark wont jump the gap, the plug i use on the 550 is NGK i BPR5ES. i would also be sure the plug gap is correct, should be 0.028-0.030, you might also try gapping it slight smaller than spec, if your coils weak it wont have enough oomf to jump the gap over high pressure. EDIT: one thing i would do, is when it starts to bog while revving, choke the engine, about 1/4 of the way, then half choke, then about 3/4 of fully choked. if it runs better while being choked you have a lean mixture of air and fuel. or more air, not much fuel.

It should show the complete code when I throws one. you can email Hisun tech support at [email protected]

From HiSun Tech support Unfortunately, the “45c” code is just part of the code. There are actually several different 45c codes. these codes are listed as they are shown in the owners manual. If you have the complete code, we can help you further.

these are the codes decoded. There should be one more digit after the C

You are very welcome. if you have any problems with your Mule, I have a shop manual for the 500,520 and 550 with troubleshooting,adjustments, and service intervals. Along with other specifications.

This engine has a ignition coil on the flywheel, no points.

Look up Powersports mega mall, or Pacific eagle UTV. They also have a discount for members of this forum. On their specials page.

@Mulepatrick. If you need any sort of info at all I have my 550 owners manual, 550 shop manual, and the engine shop manual, so do not hesitate to ask for anything my friend.

Hahahaha!! That's hilarious,Will!

This first pic is the general instruction. And use The FE290 setting which is Counter clockwise. And the last 2 go together.

Very possible. I have a full service manual for the engine, I'll post some pics with the procedure for adjusting the governor

This says for the 550, but that part is universal in the Mule 500 series. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-Kawasaki-Mule-550-Battery-Cover-BD3/303060331493?epid=1123113918&hash=item468fcdabe5:g:TKUAAOSwsIFcY0Fj

Towards the carb. and if you want i have NO PROBLEM at ALL taking my carb off if you aren't sure of the order of the gaskets.

Okay. If I am not mistaken there is 1 or 2 gaskets that have a small hole in the corner of them that match up with corresponding holes in the carburetor. But I may be totally wrong it's been almost a year since I put the carb on mine.

It could be sucking air from somewhere, or not getting good fuel flow enough to accelerate. Did you put new gaskets with the carb? I would also add be sure your choke is fully opening and closing.

Here is the coil ground wire. Unplug it right there. Black wire It's next to th oil fill cap

Toss some gas or spray some carb cleaner/starting fluid down the carb throat. spray it where the duct from the air filter goes to the carb. Then try to start it. if it does fuel is not making it to through the new carb. next take out the spark plug and spray some carb cleaner or pour a small amount of gas down the hole, put the plug back in. And turn it over. if none of these give any results lift the bed and unplug the coil ground wire, it's right behind the governor linkage. Then try to start it. if you want I can upload you some troubleshooting pages from my shop manual to look at. Next you might try to unhook the fuel line coming from the pump, to the carb, turn the engine over and gas should shoot out of the pump. one of the least likely options would be to pull the valve cover and be sure the valves are operating correctly/not out of time. thats a last last resort.

There is a member on here, Casey Ye , I think is their name... Or close to that. They sell Joyner parts.

Of you aren't concerned with looks, use some of that exhaust Heat wrap. I have never used it personally, but have heard it works very well.