Travis

It's been leaking VERY slowly over the past couple years, just had to add a minute amount of brake fluid every few months. Now i have to i add about 3/4 of a cup every 5 days. i took the rear tire off, where it is leaking from, cleaned up the outside of the drum and it looks like the fluid is leaking from where the "outer" drum meats the inner drum, #41038. guessing its the brake cylinder inside..... any other thoughts. I made sure the brake line is tight too.

I would look up Rocky mountain atv, you can fill in your machine info, and it shows all aftermarket accessories.

Here i'm going to try and get the most needed parts, or maintenance parts listed for members and guests to help them get their buggy back on the trail. * quite a few of these numbers are the same on early models. 2007 & PRIOR KAWASAKI MULE 1000 (KAF450-B1) OEM PARTS OEM(kawasaki brand): Air Filter 11013-1207 Oil filter OEM: 16097-0008 WIX: 51365 FUEL: Wix: 33011 OEM: 0032 SPARK PLUG: NGK: D7EA KAWASAKI USES NGK AS THEIR OEM PART. ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||| 2007 & PRIOR KAWASAKI MULE 2010 (KAF540-C1) OEM PARTS Air filter Kawasaki: 11013-1214 Wix: 42439 OIL FILTER: WIX: OIL FILTER. 51365 KAWASAKI: 16097-0008 FUEL FILTER: Wix: 33011 Kawasaki: 49019-0032 ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||| MULE 2020 (KAF540-D1) OEM PARTS Air filter Kawasaki: 11013-1214 Wix: 42439 OIL FILTER: WIX: OIL FILTER. 51365 KAWASAKI: 16097-0008 FUEL FILTER: Wix: 33011 Kawasaki: 49019-0032 ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||| MULE 2030 (KAF540-E1) OEM PARTS' Air filter Kawasaki: 11013-1214 Wix: 42439 OIL FILTER: WIX: OIL FILTER. 51365 KAWASAKI: 16097-0008 FUEL FILTER: Wix: 33011 Kawasaki: 49019-0032 ---------------------------------------------------- MULE 2500 (KAF620-C1) OEM PARTS Air filter: Kawasaki 11029-1004 Wix: wa10654 Fuel filter: WIX:33011 Kawasaki:49019-0032 OilFilter: Wix: 51394 Kawasaki:49065-2071 I'm taking a break, this typing gets tiring fairly quick lol. numbers are accurate as of 3/23/19

Welcome to the board,Leon! Good to have you! And look forward to your posting!

😣 if want to get rid of this tick, I HAVE to go back in, but deeper than I thought. It appears to be the camshaft bearing, which is NON replaceable. You have to buy a whole new block and sidecover and cam. Around 500 smackaroos for fix. I knew I had to do it before, I was able too, but financially I couldn't afford it. to replace the engine with say a Briggs or Kohler is 800 at least, to get the right amp alternator, and electric start option. So I'm going to save my money and order everything I need, and now I know I'll know what I need to do this time. I will probably start the work when school let's out for summer.

DB electrical,https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/starter-800-rx800-coleman-trail-tamer-outfitter-hisun-rs8r-nordik.html I got one from them for my mule 5 years ago, still working!

Welcome to the forum! You've got a nice machine that will serve you for years to come!

I m fine with heat, but the humidity is what gets me...

Welcome to the Board! I read several articles, this is the most informative https://www.offroadxtreme.com/features/an-off-road-guide-to-utv-racing/

The weather fooled me again... I'm ready for it to warm up and stay warm.

And the Dog approves too!

Put some new headlights on my Mule!! L.E.D lights, i did my homework before buying them, they draw the exact same amount of power as the OEM, but are way brighter. i can see alot better now! Pictures soon. So if anyone is interested in some used but still working Kawasaki MULE 550 headlights, $15 each and they're yours!! or i'll keep them for the tractor or something...

more than likely you're going to have to crawl under it,** usually throttle cables run from the pedal through a hole in the lower dash, and underneath the floor. What i would do is find the throttle cable at the governor on the engine, and trace it to the pedal, or the other way around so you will know which way to route the new one.... on each end of the cable are little round tabs. They almost look like BB's. usually you have to pull the cable one way or another to slide them out of their keeper hole. usually pry on it with a flathead screwdriver. here is an online manual for your machine if needed. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1146500/Cub-Cadet-Volunteer.html?page=1#manual i hope this helps some. ** if you cant crawl under it and you have to jack it up, be sure to support it with jackstands or concrete blocks, in case the jack fails.

You won't wear out your welcome!! Welcome to the forum! we look forward to your posting and we look forward to helping you!!!

I found an online manual and read through it, nothing about fuel pump removal, I guess you just have to use common sense or your own judgement to remove it, is it possible to loosen the bracket and remove it?\ if you could supply a picture that would be good.

Stuck float should be easy. locate the carb, take off the bowl, (bowl nut on carb, ) the float should be level, not hanging down. fuel pump: Pretty much, just replace it. They don't make any repair parts for them. Found this thread reply on another forum, seems to be a common problem with the 610 a dirty carburetor...or a bad float ...or a bad inlet needle. What is happening is that the gasoline is bypassing the float needle and is overflowing. Then it goes through this passageways and into the oil pan. IF there is dirt that has gotten onto the needle or seat, this will hold the needle open. If there is a small hole in the float, then the float will sink allowing too much gas to enter the carburetor. causing this problem. If the needle or seat has worn or has a chip in it, then the gas will bypass them and flow into the oil. This is a very common problem. ALSO, if you have a vacuum operated fuel pump, the diaphram inside the pump may have gotten a hole in it. This will allow gasoline to pass through the diaphram and into the oil supply.

Looking good!!

if you're getting fuel through to the filter, that means your pump is sucking, take off, or disconnect the fuel lines and i would spray carb spray or brake cleaner or compressed air, through the fuel pump to break up any possible blockages.

Find anything yet?