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Travis

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Everything posted by Travis

  1. I found an online manual and read through it, nothing about fuel pump removal, I guess you just have to use common sense or your own judgement to remove it, is it possible to loosen the bracket and remove it?\ if you could supply a picture that would be good.
  2. Stuck float should be easy. locate the carb, take off the bowl, (bowl nut on carb, ) the float should be level, not hanging down. fuel pump: Pretty much, just replace it. They don't make any repair parts for them. Found this thread reply on another forum, seems to be a common problem with the 610 a dirty carburetor...or a bad float ...or a bad inlet needle. What is happening is that the gasoline is bypassing the float needle and is overflowing. Then it goes through this passageways and into the oil pan. IF there is dirt that has gotten onto the needle or seat, this will hold the needle open. If there is a small hole in the float, then the float will sink allowing too much gas to enter the carburetor. causing this problem. If the needle or seat has worn or has a chip in it, then the gas will bypass them and flow into the oil. This is a very common problem. ALSO, if you have a vacuum operated fuel pump, the diaphram inside the pump may have gotten a hole in it. This will allow gasoline to pass through the diaphram and into the oil supply.
  3. if you're getting fuel through to the filter, that means your pump is sucking, take off, or disconnect the fuel lines and i would spray carb spray or brake cleaner or compressed air, through the fuel pump to break up any possible blockages.
  4. Find anything yet?
  5. Looking good!!! are you re-ringing it?
  6. Welcome to the forum! Here is the page that shows Service Manuals for the landmasters, https://americanlandmaster.com/manuals/ On most UTV's you adjust the cables where they go to the part they move, so more than likely under the bed. Have you checked your trans fluid level?
  7. It could also be the float sticking on the carburetor,letting fuel seep into the cylinder and past the rings.
  8. Usually on the 610 the fuel pump has a bad diapraghm, the fuel pum p runs off of crankcase vent. A bad diaphragm could allow fuel in the crank case.I (Tube runs from crankcase to pump.
  9. Could just need a good carb cleaning. , take off the fuel lines and blow them out with compressed air to make sure they're clear. to test coils, get a inline spark tester, hook the clamp to the plug or other good ground on your mule, and crank the engine, if you dont see the light (or spark, depending on what tester you get) you have a bad coil. EDIT here is the link to the troubleshooting guide for your engine : https://www.kawasaki-engines.eu/umbraco/Surface/downloadFile/Download
  10. Have you tested the ignition coils? Is it a 3010? Or 550? Usually i f a filter is clogged it will idle rough before it shuts off fuel flow.
  11. Welcome to the forum! Here is a link to joyners web page for parts. http://joyner-usa.com/joyner-parts/
  12. https://ibb.co/dcwsFH2
  13. The following product safety recall is being conducted voluntarily by Kawasaki in cooperation with the CPSC. Consumers should stop using the product immediately unless otherwise instructed. For more information about recalls, visit CPSC’s website at http://www.cpsc.gov. Name of Product: MULE™ PRO Units: Approximately 1,000. Distributor: Kawasaki Motors Corp., U.S.A., Foothill Ranch, CA Hazard: There is a possibility that an incorrect grade of material was used to manufacture the ROPS crossmember of the roll over protective structure which does not meet the intended tensile strength. Description: The recall involves 2018 model year MULE™ PRO DXT, DX and 2019 model year MULE™ PRO FXT, FX, and FXR utility vehicles. Sold at: Kawasaki dealers nationwide from August 31, 2018 to September 22, 2018 for between $13,100 and $17,000. Remedy: Consumers should immediately stop using the product and contact your Kawasaki dealer to schedule a free repair. The repair consists of replacing the ROPS crossmember. Consumer Contact: Kawasaki toll free at 866-802-9381 from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. PT Monday through Friday.
  14. **edit**, this is the valve i put the new adjuster on....
  15. I may be on too something, I'll post the video with my findings soon.
  16. Hmm, I will definitely try it that way...👍
  17. Okay, whenever the intake valve is fully opened, the rod has no slack, but as soon as pressure gets took off, it can spin.
  18. Positive, , I stuck a screwdriver through the plug hole to find TDC.
  19. Mine aren't hydraulic, just the cam lobe, tappet and push rod. one thing i just noticed, with the valve cover off, the intake valve was slightly depressed, and I was able to spin the push rod between the tappet, and the rocker arm....
  20. IMHO, Go with the wix or napa. Fram has always been a no go for me
  21. Travis

    IMG_3809.jpg

    That's a good looking machine!
  22. Yep, none of that. I just wonder why or what is causing the lifter to tick, i shined my light down in the bore where the pushrods sit, and there was oil on the end of it and the pushrod... i measured their diameter and they were both still in spec, and i lubed them up good when i installed them.... It hasn't gotten any worse since it started at all....
  23. I was watching this project farm video on youtube, () and if you skip to around 11:33, you hear the leaking head gasket? That is almost exactly what that tick noise sounds like....hmmm, or am I just going crazy..... Then again, I have none of the other blown head gasket symptoms.
  24. Wow-weee! That looks NICE!! Did you prelube all the bearings and journals. 😁? I just have to ask.....
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