Travis
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Everything posted by Travis
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I'm going to see if my brother can come look at, he had the head off of his 91 dodge last year, with a ticking sound too. Although there is probably some difference between a a 6 cyl diesel and 1 cyl. Gas. One thing I was thinking about, I had to replace the exhaust side valve adjuster stud and nut, ( I stripped the old one) I wonder if that new adjuster meeting with the worn in valve is causing it.....?
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Readjusted the valves, and again I put some assembly lube along the valve springs, rocker arms, end of the pushrod where it goes in the rocker arm, and across the rocker pin. And for awhile that quited it down a bit...... Another crazy thing, I ch anged the transmission fluid in it, and now the differential works!!!, I went through some mud that I normally couldn't go through EASY!
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Welcome to UTV Board!!! Another welcome from Texas!!!
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Yep, adjusted them 5thou, or.12mm
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How do you do that, I adjusted the valve clearance.....
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I'd say im 99.99% sure it's something in the cylinder head. But on thing, i noticed the other day whenever i checked the valve clearance , i put a little bit of assembly lube on top of the rockers, and where the pushrods go under the rocker arms, and after that that it quieted down for a little bit.... i may take the pushrod's out and check the ends of them to be sure they're aren't wallered out or anything. I know it is getting good oil flow up there, whenever i ran it without the valve cover after about 4 seconds oil started coming up to the head and on the rockers.... ** you know what, are rocker arms supposed to be able to slide side to side on the shaft?
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I don't remembers if I posted it or not, there is a slight tick coming from the head, I took the valve cover off and ran the engine without it for a minute or so, and without the cover it sounds like swoosh swoosh swoosh, but as soon as I place the cover over it, it turns into tick tick tick tick, cover off,swish swish,. I turned the engine over by hand opening and closing both valves, there is no slack in any of the push rods like a lifter isn't seating on the cam etc. I'm not sure if it's something I should find out and address immediately, or keep in check,
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I'm about to do the 12hr oil change as stated in the manual, I still have 1/2 a quart of break in oil left,*engine holds 1.5 quarts* I guess would it be okay to to mix that with Valvoline conventional...?
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If it takes me tearing into it, I hate to say but I'll just leave it, I know nothing at all about transmission and diffs, I know quite a bit about small engines and lawnmowers, but I stop at transmissions...although there is only one way to learn, I might try reading in the troubleshoot section of my manual.
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Pull out the works.....
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yes, the mule doesn't have 4wd. Fluid is full. the lever is clear of any obstruction and so is the cable.
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Well, the diff lock worked for a short instance today, i was parked on a slight downhill slope, but when I got on level ground, it woudnt lock. hmmm
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Got a small problem, not engine related, but regarding the differential, it won't engage, the lever on the side only goes up halfway before it slips into a notch to lock it, but it doesn't make it to the notch, the cable moves freely and the arm on the transmission that the cable hooks too, moves but stops before it gets engaged. I'll upload a video later. not something I can't live with, but it's nice to have when going through mud.
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I would rotate it,if possible by hand, and be sure you see the exhaust valve bump open on compression stroke to see if the decompressor is working.
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Does it have a overhead cam?
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Well, I would say not much more than the HP or CC of the current engine. Are there any numbers on the belt?
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http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/ This would be a good place too look.
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Ooh! Them heads are beat up! I noticed in the 4th picture, the head on the right,by the exhaust valve on the bottom next to the seat looks like a vertical crack... Is it? the cylinder looks good from what I can tell, except a few score lines, if possible take it to a machine shop and have them mic both, and hone them, shouldn't cost more than $50., And measure the crank journals, although they look excellent, it's cheap insurance from all your work blowing up. https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10152-Assembly-Lube/dp/B000WJ3M6I/ref=asc_df_B000WJ3M6I/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid={creative}&hvpos={adposition}&hvnetw=o&hvrand={random}&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl={devicemodel}&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583932699391023&psc=1 Lucas oil assembly lube, good stuff, coat all the cam and crank the,crankpin and valve springs. look forward to seeing your work!!
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Sounds like a good deal! I would find out if there is a undersized rod, and specs for grinding the crankshaft, that *might* be cheaper than having to get a new rod and crankshaft, possibly.
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As far as I know you would need to take that nut off of the very end.
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Welcome to the forum!! Do you know exactly what happened to the engine? Ran low on oil? Threw a rod?
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http://www.subarupower.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/subaru-engines-eh64-eh65-eh72-service.pdf I believe this is the engine service manual for your engine.
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Could you post a picture please? Usually pulleys are keyed on, similar to a flywheel on a small engine. Sometimes the key can rust to the pulley, try heating it up red hot, and quench it with a garden hose, that turns the rust to powder, and beat it off with a 3 pound hammer. If not , soak it in Diesel, or Evapo-rust. Or even spray it with PB blaster.
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@Flanman55. You might message @strike250, he knows quite a bit about HiSun.
