Travis
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Everything posted by Travis
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I'd say im 99.99% sure it's something in the cylinder head. But on thing, i noticed the other day whenever i checked the valve clearance , i put a little bit of assembly lube on top of the rockers, and where the pushrods go under the rocker arms, and after that that it quieted down for a little bit.... i may take the pushrod's out and check the ends of them to be sure they're aren't wallered out or anything. I know it is getting good oil flow up there, whenever i ran it without the valve cover after about 4 seconds oil started coming up to the head and on the rockers.... ** you know what, are rocker arms supposed to be able to slide side to side on the shaft?
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I don't remembers if I posted it or not, there is a slight tick coming from the head, I took the valve cover off and ran the engine without it for a minute or so, and without the cover it sounds like swoosh swoosh swoosh, but as soon as I place the cover over it, it turns into tick tick tick tick, cover off,swish swish,. I turned the engine over by hand opening and closing both valves, there is no slack in any of the push rods like a lifter isn't seating on the cam etc. I'm not sure if it's something I should find out and address immediately, or keep in check,
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I'm about to do the 12hr oil change as stated in the manual, I still have 1/2 a quart of break in oil left,*engine holds 1.5 quarts* I guess would it be okay to to mix that with Valvoline conventional...?
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If it takes me tearing into it, I hate to say but I'll just leave it, I know nothing at all about transmission and diffs, I know quite a bit about small engines and lawnmowers, but I stop at transmissions...although there is only one way to learn, I might try reading in the troubleshoot section of my manual.
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Pull out the works.....
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yes, the mule doesn't have 4wd. Fluid is full. the lever is clear of any obstruction and so is the cable.
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Well, the diff lock worked for a short instance today, i was parked on a slight downhill slope, but when I got on level ground, it woudnt lock. hmmm
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Got a small problem, not engine related, but regarding the differential, it won't engage, the lever on the side only goes up halfway before it slips into a notch to lock it, but it doesn't make it to the notch, the cable moves freely and the arm on the transmission that the cable hooks too, moves but stops before it gets engaged. I'll upload a video later. not something I can't live with, but it's nice to have when going through mud.
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I would rotate it,if possible by hand, and be sure you see the exhaust valve bump open on compression stroke to see if the decompressor is working.
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Does it have a overhead cam?
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Well, I would say not much more than the HP or CC of the current engine. Are there any numbers on the belt?
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http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/ This would be a good place too look.
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Ooh! Them heads are beat up! I noticed in the 4th picture, the head on the right,by the exhaust valve on the bottom next to the seat looks like a vertical crack... Is it? the cylinder looks good from what I can tell, except a few score lines, if possible take it to a machine shop and have them mic both, and hone them, shouldn't cost more than $50., And measure the crank journals, although they look excellent, it's cheap insurance from all your work blowing up. https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10152-Assembly-Lube/dp/B000WJ3M6I/ref=asc_df_B000WJ3M6I/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid={creative}&hvpos={adposition}&hvnetw=o&hvrand={random}&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl={devicemodel}&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583932699391023&psc=1 Lucas oil assembly lube, good stuff, coat all the cam and crank the,crankpin and valve springs. look forward to seeing your work!!
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Sounds like a good deal! I would find out if there is a undersized rod, and specs for grinding the crankshaft, that *might* be cheaper than having to get a new rod and crankshaft, possibly.
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As far as I know you would need to take that nut off of the very end.
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Welcome to the forum!! Do you know exactly what happened to the engine? Ran low on oil? Threw a rod?
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http://www.subarupower.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/subaru-engines-eh64-eh65-eh72-service.pdf I believe this is the engine service manual for your engine.
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Could you post a picture please? Usually pulleys are keyed on, similar to a flywheel on a small engine. Sometimes the key can rust to the pulley, try heating it up red hot, and quench it with a garden hose, that turns the rust to powder, and beat it off with a 3 pound hammer. If not , soak it in Diesel, or Evapo-rust. Or even spray it with PB blaster.
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@Flanman55. You might message @strike250, he knows quite a bit about HiSun.
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I will say it's clever marketing. Attracts the people who are too poor to pay for lawn care and too lazy to perform maintenance..
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Speaking of Oil, fairly recently Briggs and Stratton released a new engine, that you never have to change the oil in. Just Check n' Add. đŸ™„ i suppose if you let it run dry from burning oil you could add and that would be an oil change..... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fD4Pj1b2_FM
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I think that "myth" comes from the early days of synthetic oil, found this. Best Answer: In all lies is a grain of truth. Early in the days of synthetic, the compounds in the oil had different effects on the internal seals of an engine. Petroleum contained distillates that caused the engine seals to expand or "swell". The seals would wear to the correct tolerance for that component and everything would be fine, until the owner switched to synthetic oil . Synthetics did not contain the distillates and the seals would return or "shrink" back to their original size. This caused sometimes incredible oil leakage issues. An interesting side bar is the invent of several "stop leak additives" to battle these problems. The primary component of these was and still is today.... Petroleum Distillate If an engine had synthetic oil in it from the beginning and for the majority of its existence, the seals would not swell and wear until the owner switched to conventional oil. Once the switch was made, you could never go back due to the extended wear to the motor. Both synthetic and conventional oils are "engineered" today making them very similar in detergent and distillate levels, so switching is not so much of an issue anymore
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All I saw was cast iron and aluminum, held together by bolts. http://www.whitfieldoil.com/156.631 ⬆interesting read. I don't see why conventional won't work after a synthetic.
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This is what i have in it now, I used run Valvoline 10W40. https://www.motul.com/us/en-US/products/break-in-oil-10w40-5a98e823-b9a8-4419-a72e-8b2cf0bf2bcd I've always heard if you run synthetic, you can't go back to conventional.....?
