Travis
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Everything posted by Travis
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I will say it's clever marketing. Attracts the people who are too poor to pay for lawn care and too lazy to perform maintenance..
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Speaking of Oil, fairly recently Briggs and Stratton released a new engine, that you never have to change the oil in. Just Check n' Add. 🙄 i suppose if you let it run dry from burning oil you could add and that would be an oil change..... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fD4Pj1b2_FM
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I think that "myth" comes from the early days of synthetic oil, found this. Best Answer: In all lies is a grain of truth. Early in the days of synthetic, the compounds in the oil had different effects on the internal seals of an engine. Petroleum contained distillates that caused the engine seals to expand or "swell". The seals would wear to the correct tolerance for that component and everything would be fine, until the owner switched to synthetic oil . Synthetics did not contain the distillates and the seals would return or "shrink" back to their original size. This caused sometimes incredible oil leakage issues. An interesting side bar is the invent of several "stop leak additives" to battle these problems. The primary component of these was and still is today.... Petroleum Distillate If an engine had synthetic oil in it from the beginning and for the majority of its existence, the seals would not swell and wear until the owner switched to conventional oil. Once the switch was made, you could never go back due to the extended wear to the motor. Both synthetic and conventional oils are "engineered" today making them very similar in detergent and distillate levels, so switching is not so much of an issue anymore
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All I saw was cast iron and aluminum, held together by bolts. http://www.whitfieldoil.com/156.631 ⬆interesting read. I don't see why conventional won't work after a synthetic.
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This is what i have in it now, I used run Valvoline 10W40. https://www.motul.com/us/en-US/products/break-in-oil-10w40-5a98e823-b9a8-4419-a72e-8b2cf0bf2bcd I've always heard if you run synthetic, you can't go back to conventional.....?
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3 hours on the new engine! so far so good! one question, the oil change is either once a year OR every 50 hours, i wonder if i should change it sooner since it's break in oil? I don't know.
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Sorry the video isn't better. Driving one handed and trying to hold it steady is hard.
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Massimo 500 Throttle Pedal Extension needed
Travis replied to Tony C's topic in Massimo UTV SxS Forum
Hi, you might try looking here. http://www.armstronglifts.net/products/pedalmates.htm -
Well, I finally put 2 hours on the new engine, so far so good!
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I gave the Mule a bath today, and I tell you what Windex works great on cleaning the front dash/plastic and gives it a nice shine as well!
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I think once i empty this tank, i heard that the Evapo- Rust works real good on metal gas tanks.
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Well, i think Mr, Berryman Chemtool worked his magic, ran it for 30 minutes with no problems, it Idles higher now so i had to adjust it again.
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and i DEFINITELY need to clean out the tank again. i filled it up about 1/2 way with diesel, let it soak over night shook it around, emptied it and repeat, i guess that still didnt get it good, i see small specs of rust or something in the fuel filter.
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Put some B12 in the tank today, and drove it around for about 15-20 minutes, at idle i can definitely tell it's surging at idle,, Idles high for a few and then idles back down a little... oh well, I'll see what Berryman can do about it. before i take it off and soak it. lol
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I put my new fuel pump on it, and cleaned and blew out the filter both ways, i didnt take it for a drive since i didnt have time, but it idled a whole let better.
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I'm leaning toward a clog somewhere or something getting clogged, it's 1/4 mile one way from the house to the barn, the 2nd time it did it was only after riding for about a minute, but then about the last half of the 1/4 mile it ran perfect.
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It has a fuel pump, it works off of crankcase breather. I cleaned the carb when I had it apart. But finally it kind of clears its self up and ran good. So I just wonder if there's some trash in the tank or something. I'll have to get some b12, that stuff works wonders. I also ordered a new fuel filter.
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I took it On a half mile round trip today. Had some fuel issues. It would cut out and die, then only idle at choke, and I would keep it choked to a degree and throttle at the same time.. Fresh fuel, filter is old, but new.
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Activity comes and goes.
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Fixed it and now it revs like a beaut!! I think later this spring i'll replace at least the front wheel bearings, i'm getting a little bit of slack whenever i jack it up and wiggle the tires.
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Welcome to the forum! Glad to see another Mule owner, I just got through rebuilding a 01 mule 550..
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You can put as large of a battery as you want. Within reason. The size of the battery has virtually no effect in the charging system. The drain on the charging system (How many amps you are using) is what is damaging to the charging system. Think of your charging system as a bank. The battery is the checking account, the alternator output determines how quickly and how large of a deposit you make, and the electrical load being the checks. When you use more electricity than the alternator can produce, you start using the reserve funds. When you run out of reserve funds and are still using more electricity than the alternator can produce, checks BOUNCE! (meaning damage to the alternator,and or regulator is assured). As long as the electrical system isn't overtaxed, you're fine.😁 It's mostly about minimum cranking requirements and fit. If you can fit a bigger, or more importantly, higher cold cranking amp, battery, I definitely would.
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I really don't know, the picture shows how it's supposed to be in the manual , but the picture is grainy and low quality.
