Dan B

12v pulses

If you can't clean the injectors, then don't limit your search to Joyner only engines. John Deere and KawasakI and other lesser known brands use the 3-cyl version of your SQR472 engine. But you might end up buying 6 injectors They might be sold in packs of 3) if you can't buy them individually to get the four you need. You'll just have two spares.

On the schematic I'm looking at (which may or may not apply to our Trooper), the injectors get battery voltage from the main relay through a 15 amp fuse and a relay. The main relay is energized by the ignition switch in the run & start positions. The injectors get a short duration pluse that might show on an LED circuit tester. Incandescent lights can't react fast enough. But will appear on an oscilloscope (that many may not have available). If you can find a way to see that pulse, it will tell you if the injetors should be working. If the pulse is there, the injectors are bad.

Steering issue: My only guess is too much caster on the front axle that may be as simple as loose or incorrectly installed parts to a more complex bent frame. Caster is what causes the steering system to return to straight forward.

Is there an independent manufacturer of Joyner parts? Seems like everything important to Joyner machines has to come from China (engines, transmissions, differentials, etc).

I saw starters on Amazon for $100.

A CVT for the Trooper and Renegade won't work. The CVT requires a transverse (cross-wise) engine mount. The Trooper and Renegade have longitudinal engine mountings.

Those connectors are quite common in automotive systems. You might try NAPA or other parts stores. They physical size would be your limiting factor.

How slightly up hill is it? Your 800cc engine in the R4 might not be enough engine if all the seats are occupied by adults.. That's probably why Joyner went to the 1100cc engine in 2014. How is performance on level roads? Check spark plug gap. Check plug wires. My car's plug wires were bad causing me to lose power going up hills. High voltage was arcing to grounb causing misfires and losing power.

A battery can discharge through a bad diode in the alternator. Check the charging voltage. Should be 13.5+ - 14.5+ volts.

Remove the gas cap and see if it starts right up. If it does, your gas cap vent is plugged. Air needs to get into the gas tank to replace the fuel that is consumed.

Wow! That's just under 1 liter per mile. You should see a LOT of black smoke out the exhaust of that 2-cyl engine and maybe a rough running engine. If you had an external leak in the fuel system that would be a very noticeable leak. Being new, I would first check for a leakkng injector. You can search for "poor gas mileage" and it will give you a few things to check.

I ordered and got the one that Jhen posted. A little cumbersome to install but not impossible. The same bolts that hold the master cylinder to the firewal also holds the brake pedal mounting bracket to the firewall. Holding the master cylinder and the brake pedal and and the push rod in place and trying to start a bolt is a test of patience.

Was that oil light and pressure reading while idle? Mine does that, too at idle. The problem with Chery engines is that the oil pump barely has the volume needed at idle to maintain 10 psi per 1,000 rpms. I put 50 weight oil in mine and it helps a little (15 psi at idle). I bought a replacement on Amazon (VDO brand) because I thought I had the same issue. No change. But they are common on Amazon. You might consider checking the oil pressure with an independent gauge (that's not made in China).

Have the head and block mating surfaces checked. Sure sounds like a warped head or maybe a crack between the cooland and oil passages. Common occurrance when overheted and run until it runs no more. If warped, might be able to have the head and/or block machined. A crack can also be repaired (maybe).