Dan B

12v pulses

If you can't clean the injectors, then don't limit your search to Joyner only engines. John Deere and KawasakI and other lesser known brands use the 3-cyl version of your SQR472 engine. But you might end up buying 6 injectors They might be sold in packs of 3) if you can't buy them individually to get the four you need. You'll just have two spares.

On the schematic I'm looking at (which may or may not apply to our Trooper), the injectors get battery voltage from the main relay through a 15 amp fuse and a relay. The main relay is energized by the ignition switch in the run & start positions. The injectors get a short duration pluse that might show on an LED circuit tester. Incandescent lights can't react fast enough. But will appear on an oscilloscope (that many may not have available). If you can find a way to see that pulse, it will tell you if the injetors should be working. If the pulse is there, the injectors are bad.

Steering issue: My only guess is too much caster on the front axle that may be as simple as loose or incorrectly installed parts to a more complex bent frame. Caster is what causes the steering system to return to straight forward.

Is there an independent manufacturer of Joyner parts? Seems like everything important to Joyner machines has to come from China (engines, transmissions, differentials, etc).

I saw starters on Amazon for $100.

A CVT for the Trooper and Renegade won't work. The CVT requires a transverse (cross-wise) engine mount. The Trooper and Renegade have longitudinal engine mountings.

Those connectors are quite common in automotive systems. You might try NAPA or other parts stores. They physical size would be your limiting factor.

How slightly up hill is it? Your 800cc engine in the R4 might not be enough engine if all the seats are occupied by adults.. That's probably why Joyner went to the 1100cc engine in 2014. How is performance on level roads? Check spark plug gap. Check plug wires. My car's plug wires were bad causing me to lose power going up hills. High voltage was arcing to grounb causing misfires and losing power.

A battery can discharge through a bad diode in the alternator. Check the charging voltage. Should be 13.5+ - 14.5+ volts.

Remove the gas cap and see if it starts right up. If it does, your gas cap vent is plugged. Air needs to get into the gas tank to replace the fuel that is consumed.

Wow! That's just under 1 liter per mile. You should see a LOT of black smoke out the exhaust of that 2-cyl engine and maybe a rough running engine. If you had an external leak in the fuel system that would be a very noticeable leak. Being new, I would first check for a leakkng injector. You can search for "poor gas mileage" and it will give you a few things to check.

I ordered and got the one that Jhen posted. A little cumbersome to install but not impossible. The same bolts that hold the master cylinder to the firewal also holds the brake pedal mounting bracket to the firewall. Holding the master cylinder and the brake pedal and and the push rod in place and trying to start a bolt is a test of patience.

Was that oil light and pressure reading while idle? Mine does that, too at idle. The problem with Chery engines is that the oil pump barely has the volume needed at idle to maintain 10 psi per 1,000 rpms. I put 50 weight oil in mine and it helps a little (15 psi at idle). I bought a replacement on Amazon (VDO brand) because I thought I had the same issue. No change. But they are common on Amazon. You might consider checking the oil pressure with an independent gauge (that's not made in China).

Have the head and block mating surfaces checked. Sure sounds like a warped head or maybe a crack between the cooland and oil passages. Common occurrance when overheted and run until it runs no more. If warped, might be able to have the head and/or block machined. A crack can also be repaired (maybe).

The major issue with Joyners is scarce parts support stateside. John Deere uses a CVT on their 825i - no gear shift cable that I know of that works on the Renegade. The shift cables have different part numbers for the same cable. One has a eye on both ends of the cable P/N: S800.05.02.02-R2 or 02.S800.05.02.02 (two different part numbers, same cable). The other cable has a threaded nut on one end, eyelet on the other P/N: S800.05.02.01-R2 or 02.S800.05.02.01 (two different part numbers, same cable). If you can't find someone who can build you a new cable, maybe, just maybe Joyner-USA can help. if you can find and contact them. They're in Mesa, AZ. Their phone number to their address at 1050 West Main in Mesa 480-882-9612. Their Riverview and 18th Pl addresses are way out of date. I was able to get two tires w/rims and two headlights from them in stock. But that was a few years ago.

If the shifter is in the vertical position, no adjustment is necessary. I hope I never have to adjust the cables. The adjustments are just to the rear of the shift lever under the center console. There's no access to the adjustments on my ride. I'd probably have to cut the plastic console to create an access opening. The other option is to remove the center console - a job in itself. The person who wrote the adjustment procedure never addressed how to access the adjustments.

Fuel pressure on those Chery 800/1100 engines should be 50 psi according to my manual. As for the engine cutting off immediately after start, mine does that too if the battery is slightly under charged (fron sitting too long). It's still strong enough to crank the engine over but won't continue to run unless I give it some gas to raise the idle to about 1500 rpms for a few seconds. Then it starts and runs fine after that. Mine won't start unless I give the ECM time to boot up and cycle the gauges before moving the keyswitch to "start". Could it be possible you're drawing air into the fuel system somewhere along the line?

In 2014, they Renegade went to the 1100cc engine. I don't know if the exta 300cc makes much of a difference in performance. They have a manual transmission and clutch, much like a car. You'll have to be proactive in managing power to the drive axles; not as easy to do on extremely hilly terrain, but is doable. Some commented on quality issues in the early Joyner models but I can't confirm that. I've never had any major issues with my machine.

I'm leaning toward lack of fuel. The engine is needing more fuel that what is being delivered. Could be fuel pump, filter or the ECM isn't recognizing the demand for fuel from the throttle body. Other than that, I'm sorry that my skill level is short of what I've suggested. Good luck on fixing your machine.

According to the manuals that I have (limited trust in the info): The Trooper uses the same bearings front & rear - 65 x 35 x 35. The Renegade uses the same bearings as the Trooper on the rear axle only. The front bearings on the Renegade are 30 x 5 x 0 x 5. I think there's a typo in the manual. Could be 30 x 50 x 5. The bearing part number is D650.03.01.00.05. I entered this part number and got a lot of hits. Seems that the Arctic Cat uses the same bearing.

I'm still guessing here. Since the crankshaft position sensor didn't change anything, that could be the issue. A bad sensor though would cause rough idle, slow engine resonse when you press on the accelerator, difficulty starting. Engine starving from lack of fuel caused by a clogged fuel filter; low fuel pressure (should be about 50 psi) or bad throttle body. A compression test might be of value. Low compresson on all cylinders could indicate a jumped valve timing belt. Not likely but it will eliminate one doubt. 3000 RPMs at 30 mph is normal; higher RPMs is not.

Not enough info to even begin to tell you where to look. What is the engine RPM when you're traveling 30 mph? Is the engine running smoothly or acting like it's cutting out, missing or struggling?

Seems you have all that is needed to start the engine except you didn't say that you've confirmed you have a spark. Is the fuel any good from sitting around so much. Could water be in the fuel system? Remove an injector, and try to caputre a small amount of fuel in a container as you crank the engine. Take that fuel sample outside to see if it will burn (it can't explode). Temperature and humidity swings can cause water to condense in a fuel system. Still can't completely rule out an electrical issue with a ground.

I bought mine used with almost the same numbers (1700 miles, 3 yrs old). Is this the original owner? 1600 miles in 3 years averages about 10 miles per week (in very round numbers). How many hours are on the machine (if there's an hour clock on it)? Divide 1600 by the number of hours will give you the average speed over the operating time of the vehicle. High average speeds (>15+ mph) might indicate that it was driven mostly on smooth roads. Low speeds may indicate a lot of slow driving as what might be done on a farm. Well maintained machines can last several thousand miles. NADA lists this used machine at $11k - $14.5k depending upon condition. KBB gives $10k price. My thoughts on buying used is you may be buying someone else's problem child or, like me, you can get lucky and end up with a fine machine. Take a good look at the cleanliness. A well maintained machine won't have a lot of dirt or dried mud in the engine comparment. Don't expect a perfect machine as it is given that there will be minor problems. It's the major ones that may not manifest themselves until after you buy it that can be upsetting .