Dan B

Not inexpensive if you want to buy one. Most need a 3-point hitch with a PTO. The lowest cost self-powered (they have their own engine) I found was $2000+++ depending upon engine size and cutting width and whether you want a rough cut or finish cut. At those prices, you can buy a riding mower. If you have the welding skills, there are a few YT videos where those in the same situation built their own tow behind mower for about $800 incl engine. Not many available on my local Craigslist.

My theoretical analysis of incorrect valve gap. I wouldn't say a lot of power if one cylinder, but more pronounced if on all cylinders. A larger than normal gap will cause the intake valve to open late and close early. The compression will be a little lower (less fuel/air mixture gets into the cylinder on the intake stoke) and cause some loss of power. Does the engine othewise runs smooth (not missing)? Your compression should be near 130 psi at sea level (based upon 14.7 psi atmospheric pressure and a 9.5 compression ratio minus a few pounds due to other factors). A larger than normal gap on the exhaust valve will also cause it to open late and close early which, in turn, keeps more burned fuel in the cylinder on the exhaust stoke, prevernting a full charge of fresh fuel/air mixture from being fully injested into the cylinder on the intake stroke.

I would still check the valve clearances (cam to lifter clearance). Can't really tell clearances by looking at the valves. Lacking any other info that might say otherwise, the intake is 0.18mm/0.007"±0.05mm/0.0019", exhaust 0.25mm/0.0098"±0.05mm/0.0019". Excessive clearances will cause the cam lobe to "slap" against the lifter causing the clicking/clacking noise.

Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Get an ammeter and connect it between the negative battery terminal and the negative battery cable. Then start pulling fuses until you notice a drop in the ammeter reading. That's the problem circuit. 1/4amp or less is okay. That could be caused by a clock or standby current for the ECU. You're looking for a larger current draw that would cause the sparking that you noticed. Take the battery and see if they can test it. The problem with these smaller batteries measured in Amp Hrs instead of CCA is that some places can't check them. Their equipment is calibrated in CCA. Some use an unreliable method of converting Amp Hrs to CCA by multiplying Amp Hrs x 7.5. At least it will give you something to test against. I keep a trickle charger on my SxS battery.

I agree with Travis. Check valve lifter to camshaft clearances with the valve for the cylinder closed (cam lobe not in contact with the lifter). Dirt may have worked its way into the lifter. I'm not sure if this engine has hydraulic lifters (I don't know). If they do, I don't see where shims are needed to adjust clearances. But a lifter could be binding due to dirt whether a solid or hydraulic lifter. Were you able to determine where the metal shavings came from?

I've said this on other posts. You'll find die-hard fans for any brand of UTV/SxS. There is no perfect UTV. Even brand name UTVs have issues with broken/overheated/burnedf belts, drive shafts, CV joints, engines, etc. especially when driven beyond their capability. I bought a used Joyner (paid $7k 3 years ago) because 1) I pave my own roads, 2) I can't see spending $20k-$30k+ for a "pretty" UTV that I might ride a few times a year. It's just not in my budget. The early Joyners had quality control issues, but they've seem to have improved. In other posts, the differenials seem to be a weak point. But I believe that the failures might be related to driving them beyond their limitations. I'll admit that UTVs with CVTs are easier to drive. The Joyners with the clutch and 5-speed transmissions require you to take an active role in managing power to the drive axles. The John Deere 825i uses the same Chery engine (800cc) as the early Renegades. One model of the Kawasaki also uses a Chery engine. If the UTV has a gasoline engine (3-cyl 800cc or 4-cyl 1100cc), it just might be a Chery engine. Those owners probably don't know that they are driving Chinese "junk". The larger displacement Chery engines are relatively common in cars sold in Asia, Africa and South America. In 2014, the Renegade has the 1100cc engine - same as their Trooper. The Joyner and Troopers are wide machines (60in); you may be limited to where you can ride on narrow trails. I did a search for UTV recalls. Most brand name UTVs & ATVs have had recalls. I couldn't find any recalls for Joyner Troopers or Renegades. Maybe they just don't issue recalls whether needed or not. Support for these UTVs however, may be difficult to find. Dealerships aren't as wide spread as name brand UTVs. I haven't experienced any issues with my UTV - yet. I use mine as a means of transportation in the backwoods, not as a race car to jump over cliffs. Personally, I like my Renegade.

I'll try to explain it in words; pictures would be better. Here goes: You have 12vdc from the battery to the starter solenoid at all times. When you activate the ignition switch to the start position, it provides a ground path from the solenoid through the ignition switch onward to the neutral safety switch. The neutral safety switch provides the final round connection when the transmission is in neutral. The "igniter" wire is the ground connection that goes to the ignition switch.

My first guess is the horn button is stuck. The ignition switch supplies 12vdc to the horn button. The horn button sends that 12vdc to the horn. The horn is not likely defective and I doubt the ignition switch is defective on such a new machine. It's impossible for a fuse to cause your horn issue. That's how they should be wired. Check to see if the horn button moves about 1/4" when you press it. If it doesn't, the button is jammed. I presume the problem wasn't there when you picked up the machine. However, in all my researching, I could not find an instrument panel that shows a horn button nor a wiring diagram.

These are WIDE machines 60" class and it's heavy, about 1750lbs+ for the T2 & R2. Consider the width of the trails you're planning on riding. These have an automotive style clutch and transmission. You'll have to take a more active role in managing power to your drive axle(s). CVT transmissions are easier to drive. Mine has 1700+ miles on it. I run 50w oil in the engine. Anything lighter and you'll have low oil pressure (10psi) at idle when the engine is at operating temperature. It's not a real problem, but I like to see 20 psi at idle on my engine. You may have to do some of your own repairs if you can't find a local shop. I can't see spending $20k-$30k on a name brand fancy ride because other want to follow that crowd. It's not in my budget. ALL UTVs have some issues now and then, even the $30k machines. Mine has some nitpicking issues but they are not show stoppers. Personally, I like my ride.

Just curious as to what circuit that 10 amp fuse was in (fuel pump?). I hope you replace the 20a fuse with an original 10a fuse.

I've said this on other posts. There is no perfect UTV. Even brand name UTVs have issues with broken/overheated/burnedf belts, drive shafts, CV joints, etc. especially when driven beyond their capability. I bought a used Joyner because 1) I pave my own roads, 2) I can't see spending $20k-$30k for a "pretty" UTV that I might ride a few times a year. The early Joyners had quality control issues, but they've seem to have improved. UTVs with CVTs are easier to drive. The Joyners with the clutch and 5-speed transmissions require you to take an active role in managing power to the drive axles. The John Deere 825i uses the same Chery engine (800cc) as the early Renegades. One model of the Kawasaki also uses a Chery engine. If the UTV has a gasoline engine (3-cyl 800cc or 4-cyl 1100cc), it just might be a Chery engine. Those owners probably don't know it that they are driving Chinese "junk".. The larger displacement Chery engines are relatively common in cars sold in Asia, Africa and South America. In 2014, the Renegader has the 1100cc engine - same as their Trooper. The Joyner and Troopers are wide machines (60in); you may be limited to where you can ride on narrow trails. I did a search for UTV recalls. Most brand name UTVs & ATVs have had safety recalls. I couldn't find any recalls for Joyner Troopers or Renegades. Maybe they just don't issue recalls whether needed or not. Support for these UTVs however, may be difficult to find. Dealerships aren't as wide spread as name brand UTVs. I haven't experienced any issues with my UTV - yet. I use mine as a means of transportation in the backwoods, not as a race car to jump over cliffs.

There is an OBDII port located at the end of a cable behind the passenger seat (R2). But it uses a proprietary protocol that no common OBDII reader can read That I can find. I have two OBDII readers and neither one can read the data even though 12vdc power is available. Fuel pressure is 49.8 psi, 50 psi is close enough for government work .

According to the MSDS Berryman's injector cleaner using H.E.S.T. is acetone. It is in some of their fuel system cleaners. Seafoam fuel injector cleaner uses Benzene. I presume both are safe otherwise a lot of customers would have put them out of business. Gas engines of any kind should be run occasionally to promote the consumption of fuel before it goes stale and also to keep the engine lubricated.

Keep us posted on your progress as some of us Joyner riders might run across the same problem in the future.

Wow! With so little to go on, it could be almost anything. Does the fuel pump pressure drop off when this happens? Could be an internal fuel pump issue. How's the compression on the cylinders when it shuts down? Could a valve be hanging up after the engine gets warm? I would rule out any fuses - when they fail, it's permanent - no restart after cooldown. It sure points to a heat problem. Seems like some Joyners have transient issues. Once, my Joyner's idle went towards 3,000 RPM before I shut it down Did it a few times while I was troubleshooting the issue, then it went away before I could isolate the problem. Another time, it would shut down immedeiately after start up. Again, problem went away before I could isolate the issue. The battery wasn't fully charged but it was charged enought to start the engine with to problems. After I charged the battery, problem went away. Made no sense to me. Neither has reoccurred. Leaning toward the Idle Air Control.

Let us know how things work out for you in case we need to get engine parts. A dependble source with rapid delivery is essential. 12-20 days isn't too bad considering the 7,000 distance by ship.

I've only dealt with Joyner-USA one time. I had difficulty in getting email responses, also. Phone calls weren't successful either. I had to go to the shop in person. No experience with any other suppliers. Joyner-USA is about 50 miles from where I live. I have to go to that side of town for other business. If I have time, I'll swing by to see if anyone's there. When I went there before, there was only Jake and one elderly helper. He moved from his digs on Riverview Drive to a lower cost location.

When it comes to the Trooper and Renegade engines, don't limit yourself to Joyners. I don't know if you know that those engines are used in other rides: John Deere 825i (800cc), Renli and Orelon Reeper, Jeep GK-45 (made in India), and many others. The biggest issue in these states is getting parts locally or at least in country without going to China and waiting for the proverbial slow boat.

If your engine is a 4-cyl 1100cc/1083cc gasoline engine, it's most likely a Chery brand. Used in several other machines. Chery has a 3-cyl 800cc/812cc version that uses the same parts except for parts needed to accomodate the 4th cyclinder in the 1100cc engine (crankshaft, block & cyl head & camshaft).. Unless you are lucky to find someone who has bearings in stock, they'll have to order them from China, too. You can search for "Joyner bearings" and find a few sources. I don't know about Silver Bullet out of Yuma, AZ. Others have complained about their service. I can't confirm that. Joyner-USA in Phoenix AZ is a source. Their website has an incorrect address, updating it isn't a high priority. Their current address is 2415 S 18 Pl; Phoenix, AZ. Phone # hasn't changed as of March, 2019 when I've dealt with they earlier this year (needed headlights, in stock). If your engine isn't the Chery brand, all this info I gave you becomes useless. Good luck on your search, though.

1. There are two types of oil pressure "switches". One is an actual switch. When oil pressure is low, the switch closes providing a ground to an oil pressure warning light. The other type is a variable resistor that operates an analog gauge. Although possilbe, I don't know of any ATV/UTV engines that have a low oil cut-off switch. The sloshing around of oil in the crankcase during rough rides can cause the engine to shut off. 2. The spring valve is an over pressure relief valve that dumps excess pressured oil back to the crankcase. A rudimentary pressure regulator of sorts. If the oil filter gets plugged, there's a separate bypass valve that allows unfiltered oil to continue lubricating the engine. It's a different spring loaded valve than the one in your picture. If anyone knows how to increase idle oil pressure in the Chery engines, let me know. Seems like these engines have 10 psi oil pressure at idle. I prefer 20 psi. 50 weight oil helps, but not enough.

The engine makes it look like your ride is a Joyner Commando 650; maybe an early year model. The picture of the engine compartment on other websites is very, very similar to yours for the Commando. The same engine is used in the Joyner Sandspider and probably other rides. That should give you a start in searching for parts.

I searched for images of tire rims for Joyner machines. That looks very similar to the rims used on a Joyner Commando 650 machine and the Roketa. Expand your search to other Chinese machines to see if they use them. Make sure you get the correct rims. I don't know if the front rims are narrower than the rear rims as they are on the Troopers and my Renegade.

Good job, Volkz!

I expect they misidentified the parts that you needed. Going to have to talk to your supplier and get them replaced. That's the problem with ATVs and UTVs. You're stuck with being your own shop. Piston sets without C-clips have a press fit pin in the connecting rod (as you probably know).