Dan B

I can only recommend you contact the Joyner dealer in Phoenix, AZ. I haven't had any luck with them responding to my emails, but you may fair better. This is the number I've found (480) 882-9612. Don't know if it is still valid. You might search online for other dealers around the country. One blog site said that the Chery 1100cc engine is very similar to the Ford U.S. CVH motor. But without a thermostat housing, there's no way to know if they are the same as the CHV motor's housing. If you are near a John Deere dealership, they might be able to get you the housing. Here's why. The John Deere 825i Gator uses the same Chery 800cc engine that the early Renegades had. The 800cc engine is the same as the 1100cc engine with many of the same parts. the major difference is the extra cylinder. (3-cyl vs 4-cyl). There are some other brands of UTVs that use the same 800cc or 1100cc motor. Textron's Prowler Pro uses the 800cc Chery engine. The Reeper also uses the same engtine as does some other less well-known brnads. If the SxS is gas powered and is a 3-cyl 800cc or 4-cyl 1100cc engine, it's most likely the Chery engine. It's relatively common in South America, Africa and of course, Asia. Here are the part numbers for everything associated with the thermostat and housing that I've stumbled across a couple of years ago.: EPR# / PART # / NAME Quantity is one each for all parts except the flange bolt and the T-connection (2 req'd). 02.DLJ.GB50-18 / GB50-18 / 'O' RUBBER RING 02.DLJ.372-1306016 / 372-1306016 / SEAT-THERMOSTAT OUTER 02.DLJ.372-1306020 / 372-1306020 / THERMOSTAT ASSY 02.DLJ.372-1306001 / 372-1306001 / SEAT-THERMOSTAT 02.DLJ.Q1840850 / Q1840850 / HEXAGON FLANGE BOLT 02.DLJ.372-1306012 / 372-1306012 / SEAT-THERMOSTAT INNER 02.DLJ.372-1306018 / 372-1306018 / SEAT–THERMOSTAT 02.S650.04.02.02 / S650.04.02.02.00 / “T”connection Good luck in getting your ride back on the road.

My Renegade has the same 1100cc engine. So, I'm basing my response on comparing your images with my engine. The two larger holes are for connecting the cooling system. The one near the flywheel has about a 5" radiator hose going to a T-connector. One leg of the T-connector goes to the front of the engine and the other leg goes to the radiator. The two smaller holes in the third picture is for bolting an engine lift eye bracket (for lack of a better term).

This is my thought on it: Never needs oil may mean that the clearances are loose and it burns oil. Since there's no oil filter, all you have to do is check the oil level and add as necessary.

I don't know how close your Supermach 800 is to the HiSun HS800 but when I did a search for your machine, it gave me this link: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1113756/Hisun-Hs800.html?page=172#manual Starting with that page, and continuing further, you'll find that there are two thermostats. One for the engine that controls water flow to the radiator. It is usually located near the top most radiator hose coming from the engine. There's another thermostat that controls the radiator fans. It measures water temperature in the radiator. It is attached to the radiator fins. I suspect that the former owner had problems with that temperature sensor and installed a switch to make the fans run full time. If the above link idoesn't apply to your machine, the info I gave you applies to most, if not all electric fan cooling systems. Good luck.

Computer programming error. I have to admit that I know nothing about the Kymco, but some digital speed systems count the time between pulses sent to the computer by the wheel speed sensor. My guess is that the computer is doing the math incorrectly that displays the vehicle speed. Does your odometer read exactly 1 mile for each mile driven or 1km for each 1km driven? If so, then it's only the speed reading that is in error. Does the odometer have the same error at the different speeds? Then it might be a computer programming error.

The Chery 800cc and 1100cc engines are exactly the same except the 1100cc has an extra cylinder. Lacking any other info that might say otherwise, the intake is 0.18±0.05, exhaust 0.25±0.05. I have to presume these are metric measurements since Japan is metric. I downloaded a service manual for this engine but I can't remember or find the site.

You have a dead short on the + battery cable or the alternator has a dead short inside it. Follow it to see where the insulation is corrupted and the cable is touching ground. This problem is external to the battery.

It's probably a custom built header. The Chery 800 cc engines didn't come with headers according to the Sand Viper and Renegade parts manuals. It will probably bolt up to the 800 cc engine but as for the tubes, you may or may not have a clearance issue to deal with depending upon what UTV it came from. There are many brands of UTVs that use the Chery 800 cc engine. John Deere 825i uses it. If it's a 3-cyl 800(812)cc engine, it's most likely the Chery engine. Go to Offer Up and ask the seller (Alex) about it. He would or should have the info you need.

I would also go along with fuel or ignition issues. A lot of "could be this" or "could be that". Just a few things I would check: Could be spark plug wires (insulation) breaking down (had that problem on my car once). Start the engine and look to see if you can see St Elmo's fire around the spark plug wires. More pronounced if engine is under load. Best if you can do this at night with very little light. Could be the fuel pump. Can you check fuel pump pressure and volume? Carburetor may need cleaning. High speed jet may be partially clogged. The popping could be a sign of sticking valves. Especially if it sat for a very long time. Do a compression check.

The YouTube video says the top of line configuration for this ride is about $62,000.

Speed is a function of engine RPM and transmission gear ratio. Bypassing the governor (if equipped) will allow you to increase engine RPM but will probably not be good for the engine. Changing the pulley ratios will get you more speed but at the cost of acceleration (loss of torque). Any improvements you can do will probably result in limited performance increases short of installing a turbo kit. That will probably be a good option if you have the money. And if you have the money, upgrading to a larger machine would work, too.

I bought a used 2014 Joyner Renegade R2 with the 1100cc engine, cable select 4wd, front and rear lockers. In 2014, they went from the 800cc engine to the 1100cc engine. It has a clutch and 5-speed transmission with reverse. 1st gear is a "granny gear" max speed is 12 mph in 1st gear. As long as you can maintain wheel traction, that 1st gear might get you up some steep grades. Max speed in 5th is about 60 mph (I've never had it over 40). It has about the same wheelbase as a Smart car. So narrow off road trails might be a challenge. Sounds like most of your riding will be in the <25mph range. The maintenance support network isn't as extensive as some other brands, but it is out there. I'm not a fan of the CVT transmission. That's why I went with my choice. Too many videos of belts coming apart (probably due to some hard riding).. The John Deere 825i (and many other SxS) has the same 800cc engine. It is a Chinese made Chery automotive engine used in many cars in South America, Asia and parts of Africa. If the SxS you're considering has a 3-cylinder 800cc or a 4-cylinder 1100cc engine, it's most likely the Chery engine. I have to admit that the CVT transmission is much simpler and easier to manage than my clutch/transmission set up. You don't have to worry about gear selection or stalling the engine because of that. Also, CVT transmission do a better job at keeping the engine within the best power RPM range. One thing about CVT is that engine braking isn't available unless the engine is above idle. That may be an issue coming down steep grades. The engine doesn't grab the belt with the drive pulley until a certain RPM above idle is reached. Is there a perfect SxS? No. But there is one that comes closer to your needs than others. For me, my choice fits my needs. I'm also 70 yrs old.

That appears to be a diode. Can you see any labeling that might start with "1N". That signifies a diode and no a resistor. I'll see if I can find something online about it. But maybe another Coleman owner or dealer can ID the part in the meantime. A website I visited said that the Coleman may be a rebranded Hisun UTV.

I visited Klung Motors web site. They have a differential that has very close the same physical characteristics as the new differential that you have. Can't go by physical characteristics, but it does need to be considered as to form, fit and function. They advertise it for the Trooper 1100cc. Good luck on your search.

Let's see what Joyner says. I would first suspect that you have a differential from a different Joyner SxS. Are part numbers stamped somewhere on the differentials so that you can compare them to see if they are the same?

An intake valve may be stuck open (most likely) or the valve timing may be off (less likely). I would check the compression against the standard for this engine. If compression is way low or near zero, an intake valve may be stuck open. If compression is low in the neighborhood of 100 psi or so, the valve timing may be off. Check the valve timing marks vs crankshaft position against the specs for this engine.

Call your dealer to see if your Mule came with power steering. If you don't have power steering, then hard steering at slow speeds is normal. Low tire inflation pressure (which is normal on ATVs & UTVs) also tends to cause hard steering at slow speeds. Badly aligned front end (toe, camber, caster) will also cause this issue as will bent steering components (was this a dealer demo that might have been abused?). Since your ride is new, I don't think lubrication is your issue unless someone didn't do their job at the factory.

Okay! Thanks for the info. I'll look at getting an oil cooler. There was one time I noticed that my idle pressure was about 10 psi. Then later during the same ride it was near 20 psi. I'm wondering if a problem is developing in the oil pressure relief (bypass valve) adjustment; maybe sticking slightly open at times. I'm not familiar enough with the Chery engines but I do know that regular cars have that adjustment in the oil pump. Older cars had that adjustment in the engine block near the oil filter.

Measure the voltage at the battery with the engine running at about 1500 RPM. If over about 14 volts, your alternator is good. If not, then suspect the alternator. If you have the time, charge the battery and let is sit for 24 hrs. If not at 12.6 vdc after that time, your battery can't hold a charge. You don't want to shotgun parts replacement - it can get expensive if your shotgun is off target.

I installed this spark arrestor on my Joyner Renegade 1100cc a few months ago. It's actually made for VW engines up to 1600cc. Works vert well. Extends about 2" past the rear of the tail gate.

50 psi at all times the ignition is on and/or the engine is running. Electric fuel pumps don't rely on engine speed. I can't see where the Chery 1100cc engine would need different fuel pressure based upon the chassis (Joyner Trooper vs Joyner Renegade vs Joyner Sand Viper); should be all the same.

Edit Sound like a fuel starvation issue. The next time is dies, immediately open the fuel tank cap and see it the engine restarts. If it does, you might have a plugged or kinked fuel tank vent line. That vent line allows filtered air into the tank to replace the fuel that was burned. If that doesn't do it, then someone smarter than I will have to help. A friend had that problem with his small outboard motor.

The first letter "L" says it's made in China. The 10th character "7" says it's a 2007 year model. It is the 126th of however many they made. Online searches on this VIN don't decode most Chinese made vehicles. I found images that has this info linked to it: It's a 300cc model MC-152. Brand name: BODE. Here's a link that I found: http://bodevehicle.sookuu.com/product/xHMQ/New-300cc-UTV-with-EEC-MC152.htm

This is just a quick summary of what I've read that drove my decision to buy a 4WD with locking diffs both front & rear. I also decided against the CVT in favor of a clutch and 5-speed transmission (similar to a car). If you're looking for a 2WD UTV, then it won't make much difference. I wouldn't consider taking one of these into a situation where I might need a locking diff. I personally would want a 4WD with both front & rear locking diffs independently selectable. I want to have the option of having all four wheels available to get me out of trouble. But even 4WD with full lockers won't guarantee anything. Most prefer rear lockers because lockers on the steering axle leaves a lot to be desired on soft sand or dirt (tends to not go in the direction you want to go). Front lockers are on UTVs that are FWD; rear lockers are on UTVs that are RWD. Again, it's a matter of preference whether you want FWD or RWD. Most are RWD. Unlike cars, I don't know of any FWD UTVs.