BigRich

I bought my Coleman HS700 new in June of 2015 and this is the second problem with it and I rarely use it. In December of 2018, after only 20 hours of operation it failed to start and I troubleshot it to the fuel pump not getting voltage. The local shop repaired the wire harness with the wire that went to the fuel pump. This design has some definite wiring issues. I'm not thrilled but this vehicle did cost about 2/3rds what the more widely known brands cost so I think it boils down to the old adage, you get what you pay for. I'm only into this for $300.00 in repairs on the $9,300.00 purchase five years ago so . I'm sure the more expensive ones aren't problem free either. At least it hasn't left me out on the trail.... yet! Fingers crossed.

Well, no one replied with the correct temperature so I assume no one knows. I'm guessing it is pretty high since the sensor I tested turned on at approximately 190 degrees. My HS700 boiled over so the temperature had to be over 225 or as much as 265 degrees in a sealed radiator system and a 50/50 mixture of water and antifreeze. I tested the new sensor by putting a little less than an inch of water in a bowl and bringing the water to a boil in my microwave. My meter measures 00.0 when there is continuity or the sensor is shorted to allow 12 volts through to turn on the fan. My meter displays 0L when the path is open or there is no continuity and therefor no 12 volts to turn the fan on. As you can see the sensor switches "on" somewhere between 183 degrees and 194 degrees. I hope that's correct. I have uploaded photos of the senor in both the on and off condition depending on the temperature of the water as you can read on the digital thermometer with its probe in the water. I installed it in mt UTV and ran the motor until the fan ran. It worked and even after I turned the engine off (the engine is still hot), if I turned the ignition back on, the fan came on as it should.

Perhaps some people are not clear as to how they tested the fan? At first, I did not jumper past the sensor, I ran12 volts straight to the blue wire on the fan connector. It still proves the fan is working but it does not indicate that the senor would not have worked if the conditions were met. The test in the video directly bypasses the sensor making it the likely cause if the fan turns on. It would help if we knew the specs to trip the sensor. Perhaps if we removed the sensor and placed a temporary plug in the radiator to keep the coolant in and then placed the sensor in a cup of heated water with the ignition switch on it would be a better test, but we'd need to know what the temperature of the water needs to be... 130, 140, 150, xxx? Here (attached) is the schematic of the sensor switch but no temperature specification. I have not held the actual sensor in my hand but perhaps, like a car radiator thermostat, it has markings on it to let us know what the temperature range is. Anyone else know?

Hello again kenfain, I found some helpful videos on YouTube. And I am now confident that my radiator temperature sensor is faulty. Bypassing it alone made the fan work. Heck, now that I know how to bypass it I will probably carry a paperclip with me in the glove box. In an emergency I could put water in the UTV and make the fan work until I got home and could properly repair the vehicle. I've ordered a temperature sensor so it may take a week or more to get back here with a confirmation that it fixed the problem. Most folks probably go to their favorite place for parts but I thought I'd share the one I found. The price for my temperature sensor with shipping and tax was $14.88. I feel that is quite reasonable and it comes with a gasket as it should. The web site, for those who may be interested, is https://www.vmcchineseparts.com/collections/hisun-700cc-utv-parts-list They have parts lists for a fair number of ATV's and UTV's. Thank you for the help and suggestions kenfain. Here's the YouTube video that talks about testing/bypassing the sensor. The guy sort of mumbles when he says (about 41 seconds into the video) what to do with the jumper he refers to but I'm sure he's trying to say to jumper between the two connections and turn on the ignition (that's what I did with a paperclip). Please let me know if you can make out what he says.

Hi kenfain, Thank you for your reply kenfain! I understand your reply to some extent but approaching a problem is different depending on the situation. I know three things for certain 1. my coolant boiled over and out of my system (so I replaced it). 2. I have not opened the system for any reason since I bought it new 4 years ago (until now to refill it). 3. the fan works when power is applied. Your suggestion "to find out why that fan isn't working" is exactly what I'm trying to do. To me it is fairly obvious that the fan is NOT being told to come on by some sensor. My job is to find out whether a senor is not triggering because it has an air pocket causing it to be unable to sense the coolant temperature or the sensor is faulty. You also say that you "only mentioned it (bleeding air pockets from the system), because it's just a cheap, easy way to eliminate this as a possible cause for overheating". That's exactly why I want to do it before I start buying sensors or checking wiring and other more expensive and cumbersome possibilities. I only asked for pictures of where the bleeding ports are and whether the vehicle should be running or not, or whether the radiator cap should be on or off so I can feel somewhat assured that I bleed the coolant system correctly. I'm already considering ordering a sensor anyway to have as a spare in case this happens again. I found one online for $16.00 delivered so it's not too bad a price to pay (although it is only a thermal switch with threads, a gasket, and a wire connection for goodness sake). I could be checking for "air pockets" while I am waiting for the part to arrive. Since these vehicles have no heat (at least mine does not), I assume there is no thermostat to "get stuck" or jammed (like on regular passenger vehicles) or I would look into that next. I would really appreciate pictures if someone could supply some. I'm 70 years old and crawling around under this thing and figuring out where the bleeding ports are is not a way I want to spend my time if someone could make that easier for me. I've worked on cars all my life as a hobby but these things are different in so many ways.

I just joined the 'overheating club' yesterday when my HiSun HS700 overheated (boiled over). I have not tried any of the troubleshooting steps except to add the missing coolant back in and provide 12 volts to the fan. Like the others, the fan worked when I supplied the power but it is not getting the signal to turn on from the sensors. 1. Can anyone offer an explanation as to how the air gets into the system? I bough this UTV new several years ago and cannot imagine how the coolant got out or the air got in unless there is a slow leak somewhere. 2. Also, can some one provide pictures of where the three bleeding ports are on the HS700? 3. Should all bleeding be done with the engine running and the radiator cap off?

I do believe the "CFMOTO" CF188-011300 I used successfuly looks identical to the "HiSun" in your pictures Kannon09. It was only $7.99 and shipping was free if you want to give that one a try. By the way, I believe the engine block is the same for the 400, 500, & 700 UTV's.

Not only let us know if it works but how much it cost too if you don't mind. Please post a picture of the gasket side of the filter you are getting. I noticed a significant difference between my original and the one that failed. The one that worked was very much like the original. Others have posted that they used the brand/type that I had fail so I may have had o defective one. I could not see what made it (the FRAM) leak severely, but it did.

Just a follow-up note. I looked through the cross-reference oil filter list provided by Vaughn and the other provided by Travis and noticed that they both list the Kawasaki 49065-7010. I park my UTV in my garage and I park my Zero turn mower in the shed. I have not tried the filter on the UTV yet but the Kawasaki engine on my lawn mower uses the Kawasaki 49065-7010 and I have a new spare for the mower in the shed. If I had noticed this in the beginning (if I had these cross-reference listings), I more than likely would not have run into my problem. I will try the Kawasaki filter the next time I change the filter on the UTV and it will be my "go to" filter for both machines.

Thank you also Vaughn. Late yesterday afternoon I received the CFMOTO CF188-011300 that I had ordered and I put a paper towel under the old filter, removed it, cleaned the seating area and put a light coat of oil on the new CFMOTO filter gasket and installed it. NO LEAKS ! The gasket is very different from the FRAM. A side view of the FRAM gasket would look like a small hard (firm) square. A side view of the Chinese filter would look like a wider soft oval. Since the CFMOTO is not easily available locally for me, I downloaded the cross-reference list than Vaughn provided for future reference. It would be interesting to have a list of filters that are common to fail for this application. I would add the FRAM PH4967 to that list. Sadly, the FRAM PH4967 is listed on the cross-reference that Vaughn provided (no negativity to Vaughn intended). I'm sure the PH4967 is also on some other cross-reference list because I got that number from somewhere.

Thanks again Travis.

Thank you Travis, I will order one of the WIX filters when I find the right one for my UTV. Would you please post a pointer to the cross-reference chart you are using? In the mean time I have ordered a "CFMOTO" CF188-011300 on line to see if that works.

I have a HiSun HS700 (686cc one cyl.) and needed to do it's first oil change. I found that the Chinese oil filter CF188-011300 had a Fram cross-reference to a PH4967 so I picked the Fram filter up at Walmart along with the recommended 10W40 motor oil. I removed the oil fill plug and then the drain plug, followed by removal of the original factory oil filter. The oil drain plug and original filter were extremely tight. I did not have the 67mm oil filter wrench and bent the filter up pretty badly using channel lock pliers. Replaced the drain plug, and the filter and the fill plug after putting in the required 70 ounces of oil and started it up. I shut it down almost immediately but not until a little over a quart of oil squirted out from the oil filter's rubber seal. Yes, I had lubed the new filter gasket and made sure the old filter gasket was not left behind when I removed the old filter. I went to the store and bought the oil filter wrench and removed the Fram filter. I saw nothing wrong with the seating area or the gasket so I put it back on (making sure it was as tight as I dare without stripping it) and added the missing oil. I stood on the side of the motor where I could see the filter while I started the engine again. Again the oil started to squirt out. I removed the Fram filter and reinstalled the bent original and topped off the oil again. I started the engine and it is not leaking now. Anyone have this issue? Is the Fram filter a true replacement? Did I just get a new filter with a bad gasket which is not visibly bad?