KTMspeedFreak

Hey all, so i’m in the process of an engine swap and thought it may be a good time to let everyone know I am going to sell the beloved Modded 800cc 😢 Those who subscribe to the youtube channel know what a beast this engine has become! Those that don’t here it is... Drop in Suzuki F8B with closed diff tranny. Engine only had 50hrs total. This is the carbureted version that Joyner used in its 2006 Mini/Sand Vipers. Engine is easily 2x more powerful than a stock F8B. This is the little grenade that’s had my buggy going over 70mph as seen on youtube. Heres why it’s so powerful- Custom ground camshaft from American Custom Cams. Shaved Head higher compression with 030” clearance. Weber 32/36 carb jetted for sea level. Full stage 3 ported and polished head with enlarged oil ports. Performance valve job. Custom build headers. If you’d like to see and hear this baby in action checkout my channel https://m.youtube.com/c/dirtgeartv

Are the joyner axles the same diameter of some donor car axles? My concern was they wouldn’t be the same. Also what do you mean by “overlapping” them? I am very comfortable mig welding and pre heating, i’m hoping tig wouldn’t be necessary...

Hey all, some of you know i’m currently working on an engine swap for my 800cc (non brand). For argument sake it’s identical to the older (2006) sand viper in parts. For those who have done an engine swap I could really use your help are you using whole donor vehicle axles or are you cutting and connecting the donor vehicle axles to the Joyner axles via sleeves? If I use the donor vehicle axles they would be stronger but then I’m having to replace hubs, bearing and probably knuckles brakes etc. So i’m considering welding the donors to the joyner’s so I do not have to replace everything, but i’m not sure if they would be strong enough. Any feedback is greatly appreciated!

Well y'all are getting the updates even before I publish on YT! A lot left to do but I will say the test fit was a success. Im going to have to figure out how to fab my own engine mounts since the mirage mounts are crazy expensive, Like $1000. So I'm trying to find a way to adapt my current F8B mounts to bold onto the aluminum block of the Mirage. More updates to follow... Or you could always just sub me too 🙂

Yes it’s Mitsubishi 1.2L While we’re discussing engine swaps, I really need some help from anyone that’s done any sort of engine swaps Geo or other. My MAIN concern is going to be the final gearing ratios. I’d hate to put all the time and money into this build to find out the final gearing is useless. Does anyone know how well a manual car tranny will preform on a swap like Geo or other small engine? 1st gear in the tranny I have will be appx 3.5 2nd is 1.9 etc... with a final drive of 4.05. It’s reasonable low for a street car but of course I’m not driving on street and on east coast I need a nice low gear ratio for slow trails...

Guess what I picked up today fellas... FYI if anyone would like to keep up on this build series you can follow my youtube channel https://m.youtube.com/c/dirtgeartv

It’s funny you ask because I was just pricing engines and trannys on this the other day, unfortunately work has had me crazy busy lately. The thing that’s stoping me from pulling the trigger isn’t cost weight or creating the custom engine mounts but actually figuring out all the small computerized details of mounting a modern engine without a full donor vehicle, like ECU, ignition, wiring, and fuel injection. So if anyone had any tips on how that all can be done simply without a full donor at my disposal i’m all ears 😆

The geo is not a bad option, but it’s going to be heavier than the mirage for same or less power numbers. If I needed an engine/tranny combo i’d look no further than the mirage, going to be the lightest most powerful combo you’ll find for cheap cheap cheap. Keep us posted!

Thanks! Yes a snap ring is exactly what holds this coupler on the output shaft. Since I didn’t know where to order this ring, I found a piece of rounded steel wire that I cut to shape and size and bent it to fit just so in the groove. So far it has held together after a test run.

I took some pics... As you can see the right side axle/cup/hub whatever you call it is able to move side by side and when it moves all my fluid dumps out. The other side I cannot get to move whatsoever so I feel like this isn’t suppose to be happening and perhaps a nut/clip or some other restraint is suppose to hold this in place?? anyone know how these work or what might be missing?

Well so yes I discovered the problem. One side axle has about 1/1.5” side to side play. So i can pull the axle right out of the seal with no effort at all. I’m just guessing here but shouldn’t there be something that holds the axle in place to keep it from just sliding off and out of its seal?

Thx, I’ve tried doesn’t respond. offered to buy it well over the asking price too... oh well

I’ve been searching for months for headers for my 800cc no luck. Local shop wants $600 to build a header 😡 I found an add selling a “joyner 800” header and this is the exact onw i’m looking for... Anyone know what this came off or how to find this header??

For some reason, out of no where all my tranny flue is leaked out from around one of the seals in tranny where the drive shafts come out. Buggy was in the garage for few days with no leaks, then randomly all the oil just started dripping out from one of the seal areas?? I didn’t even move the buggy... The only reason I can think as to why it went from zero leaks to major leak is the cold weather here in FL may have shrunk the seals?? Anyone else think this is rather strange? 🤨🧐 Also, antonella’s know where I can order these?