GDS

Sorry for not getting back. but the doors zip in or out. They fit well. It is made better than I thought it would be.

I have been looking for a cab enclosure for my 3010. I accidently came across one for a 4010 on Amazon for $27. 00. I could not find out if it fit or not but for 27 bucks I figured I would try it. It fit better than I thought it would. If you don't have a windshield, you will have a good gap at the bottom. But with a wind shield it works great. Enough that I ordered a second one for later. Just figured I would let people know.

I have a 3010 with about 400 hours. It runs great and idles great but can be hard to start. Even at 100 degrees outside you have to choke it to start after that it runs well. Could use help so the wife can start it easier.

I will. If they feel about the same I will put them back for later use.

For the most part, yes and exhaust. At just under 3 bucks for OEM springs I have ordered a new set.

I pulled the valve covers off the mule to adjust the valves. They have been tapping loudly. The two exhaust were correct but the 2 intakes were around .023. But the question is this As I was adjusting I found I could easy open the valve by lightly pressing. Should they should be stiffer than that?

Travis, At that RPM maybe its ok. I just know when it engages its good bump

I have my new to me 07 3010 running great. But I have a question It seems to rev high before the belt engages. I put a new belt on but it didn't help. Is there some adjustment I need to look at?

So what pressure did you end up at?

I guess ill have to read up on the carb. Is it not vented? If so too much fuel would run out the vent. Gas washing the cylinder should only be able if you oversized the jet. The jet plus maybe needle adjustment should set up max fuel in the cylinder. Pressure in the bowl should not effect how much fuel goes in the cylinder unless it is way off. I could see more trouble if this was a diaphragm type carb but it's not, it's a float type. As I understand the fuel relay, when the ignitor is on/running, the relay is on. No mater what pump you use, 12 volts is 12 volts. I did however order after market relay for 16 bucks. I'll run with out one before I spend 90 bucks for something I really don't need. I don't know a reason to have the ignition on and not actually start the engine. As of now it seems to be running great, a little cold natured to start. Guessing if it was running rich/ gas washing the cylinder it would start up much easier, as if the choke is closed. fr With all that said I could be wrong, I was once. lol Feel free to correct me. The biggest thing I have learned in life is you are never always correct and you can always learn something.

I am running with out the fuel relay at the moment. I have one on order but it hasn't came in yet. If I ran a regulator, what should it be set at?

I put the governor back where it was but don't understand going boom when the sticker on the frame show max power at 3600 rpm's. Normally max will be below red line. But being it didn't seem to help overall speed, no need to bump it up. I haven't done a compression check yet as my gauge must be held in place. As far as the fuel pump it is running great with out a regulator, no flooding. The Mr Gasket 42S max pressure is 3.5 pounds. Now I don't know what the specs on the original pump was but most float type needle and seats can easily hold 3.5 psi.

Coil has been replaced then the fuel pump goes out. I replaced it with a Mr Gasket fuel pump. Its running great now but I do have a question. I modified the governor by drilling the holes and set the RPM's at 3000 full throttle in neutral. But when I took it out for a spin it ran the same speed of 22 mph. The motor has about 2000 hours but runs great and doesn't smoke. I'll do a compression test today and see where that's at. Could it be the motor is too weak to run up faster under load?

The rear coil is bad. I hope to pick one up tomorrow. Then it died altogether turned out to be the fuel relay. I’m not sure what it’s suppose to be doing. I jump it out for the moment

I have just purchased a 07 3010 Mule. It has high hours at 1900 but has been well taken care of. It seems to run well but just a bit weak. Every now and then I hear a clinging sound that may be a ignition spark to ground but I can't seem to find it. It will not do it when I'm looking. Also the back plug is showing its rich. It is black in no time where the front is a lite brown. I did find it had the wrong plugs so I changed them, but no help. As I have just got this I was wondering what do I need to look at as far as simple mods or weak points. Thanks for your help

I pulled the calipers off took them apart polished the inside and reassembled the parts. After bleeding the brakes all seem to be working well. But I don't know of any disk brakes that uses springs. they rely on the pressure being remove pulls them back.

I have a Brush Hog TH420 side by side and having trouble with spinning one tire. The other tire will kick in but only after you spin like hell and dig a hole. The final drive /gearbox is a Comer Industries out of Italy. The part number is 9.485.003.00, SN 0082, Date is E04. I can find a parts breakdown. When you bring up the transaxle it shows the internal differential but no breakdown. It does say see diff assembly but there is no diff assembly. I'm not sure if this type is no some other side by side.

I need some help with my side x side I just picked up. There are two areas 1, the brakes are sticking. They are not stuck but do not release completely and cause drag. I have pulled the pistons out cleaned them and carefully put them back, but no help. I opened the bleeders to see if they would loosen but they did not. I can take a screw driver and open them but the next push of the pedal and I right back. They are twin piston. I can get seals and pads but they would be about 140 a set. 2. Limited slip, At first I didn't think it worked at all but I got into some mud and after spinning one wheel for 10 seconds or so the other wheel grab and off I went. I tried a couple of more times and the same. I'm guessing it should engage a little sooner but I could be wrong. I changed the fluid and put moble1 75W-90 LS back in but still the same. I will get some pics of the calibers but any help would be greatly appreciated

Good Morning all I have just picked up a Bush Hog TH420. Overall it is in good shape but does need a little work. Being these are not made anymore the parts are very expensive. I hope that I can find some help crossing parts to a different brand. I just replaced the rear cv axle and had to order it out of Florida for 325.00. Now comes the brakes. They are sticking and causing drag. I can get parts but a set o rings and pads would be 140 each. I'm sure this is not the place to post repairs so I will end this for now.