Mikey

Yes it is a lot of heat so it should warm up quickly. The battery draw is quite high at start up at 10 amps to power the glow plug for 1-3 minutes until combustion is established with only the diesel fuel so I want to have a separate battery just for that. This has to be by far the lowest cost and most effective way to heat a UTV. Especially one that is used for short trips. Using the remote control I will fire up the heater 15 minutes before getting in my Mule so it will be all warmed up before I get in it while the engine is still ice cold and will keep the Mule toasty with the engine off say whill gutting a deer or loading up fire wood. Looks like I will need to fabricate bracketry for the heater's battery. No big deal but if somebody had already done it that would probably save me some time. That's why I asked if anybody had already done it. Thanks for all the input!

Hi, Has anybody installed another larger battery under the drivers seat of their 2500/2510? I am installing a diesel fired cab heater and need a 12v deep cycle battery to operate the heater like without affecting the stock charging system. I'm sure I could fabricate something but I have to believe that somebody has already put a battery in this location. I was wondering what the battery support brackets might look like or even if somebody made a kit to put a battery in this location. Thanks, Mike

@Travis Hi Travis, Many thanks but I put it in a big press and finally got it to come apart. The spline connection was really corroded from sitting I think outside in the rain. The split ring is there but on the other side of the spider. i have a lot of cleaning to do but I think it will be a good clutch when I am done. Many thanks for the help once again!

@Travis Many thanks for the quick reply. I am dissassembling a used and "supposedly" good clutch. Mine looks exactly like the exploded view you sent. I did check my manual as you suggested and I don't see the 2 pieces of 92022 split ring in my clutch making me think that maybe they are missing. However my spider (49050) seems frozen to the thin sheave shaft (59302). I sprayed the spline well with penetrating oil and hit it pretty hard with a hammer but the splined shaft will not budge from the spider. I hate to ruin the clutch as they are quite expensive and I was happy to get this "working" clutch on a bad engine I bought last week to rebuild just to have a spare for my mule. Any other ideas? Do you recall removing you split ring and have any advice there. I wonder if the split ring could be jammed inside the spline? Here is a close up pic of the position between my spider and the splined shaft of the thin sheave. They are locked fast together and I see no evidence of a split ring?????

I am trying to dissassemble my primarty clutch. I removed the obvious bolts and separated the main mechanisim cover from the body of the clutch but I cannot see how to separate the thin sheave from the body of the clutch. I am guessing it is threaded to the splined shaft. Not sure if it is a right hand or a left hand thread. Anybody have a source for dissassembly instructions? I already tried Youtube with no results. Many thanks, Mike

Just found this item on line which looks like it will accomplish what I want. It is made by coupersproducts.com http://coupersproducts.com/ice-crusher-maxstat-inline-coolant-bypass-thermostat-for-utv-heaters/ It provides a second inline thermostat that prevents cooling water from flowing anywhere else besides the cab heater until that circuit needs the additional cooling of the radiator. Simular product available on Ebay for less money. https://www.ebay.com/i/162600036184?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=162600036184&targetid=541454199572&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9018805&poi=&campaignid=6470549460&mkgroupid=81274343007&rlsatarget=pla-541454199572&abcId=1139336&merchantid=113792266&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1fOg8Njd5QIVBP_jBx2sJAflEAQYAiABEgJ2ZPD_BwE

I would like to install a water to air cab heater in my 2500 but cannot see how to tap into the cooling system so the heater will have flow from the engine water pump except when the thermostat is open. Does anybody know if the factory heater has some kind of thermostat adapter that lets hot water circulate through the engine and the cab heater core before the thermostat opens? Unless I can solve this water flow problem it seem pointless to install a cab heater if it will just have intermittent water flow when the thermostat is open. I did buy a $66 Mr. Heater MH4GC Golf Cart Propane Heater on Amazon but it is really hard to find a place to install it that will be convenient when two or especially three people are in the seat. Decided it was too much a fire hazard because it would be too close to the riders and if there was a gasoline leak it would likely ignite the fumes. Also it didn't really put out much heat. So I returned it. The only other idea I had was doing something with an exhaust heat air to air system like the Volkswagon Bugs were in the 60's but this has many challenges too. If I could just figure out a suitable water flow path I would be good to go. I do know where there is a Mule 2500 with a factory heater but I won't be back that way to see it 650 miles away until next summer. If anybody has one and could post some photos of the heater water connections to the engine, that would be wonderful. Many thanks, Mike

@Travis Thanks Travis, Yes, all figured out and back on the trail again. I stumbled accross https://www.powersportsnation.com/ while looking at ebay ads and found a good condition $40 master cylinder from them. It arrived in only two days. I disassembled it, cleaned it, reassembled it and installed it. Works like new again. While in there I found my brake pedal return torsion spring was broken so ordered a new one off eBay that arrived today for installation tomorrow. All good. Thanks for the follow up. Mike

@Travis You are correct. I did not notice that. However since it is a pressurized oiling system it probably won't matter. Certainly complicates a proper dipstick set up. These things are always more complicated than it seems they should be. Thanks for your comments.

Does anybody know if a kawasaki FD440V engine will interchange with an FD620D? It looks like the same engine from the outside but has an internal governer which you would not need to connect and a different crank output side so maybe you could swap cranks or have the FD440V splined at a machine shop. It is 15HP instead of 20 HP which isn't great but is probably plenty of power for most applications, so I am assuming it has a different bore size but you can pick them up for cheap. I don't need an engine now but would like to have a spare on the shelf. The FD440V is used in John Deere rider mowers model LX178. Here is an example of one on Ebay with decent pics: https://www.ebay.com/itm/JOHN-DEERE-LX178-KAWASAKI-FD440V-LIQUID-COOLED-VTWIN-ENGINE-block-for-parts/173956050466?hash=item288096ae22:g:CLkAAOSwTaxdIJ3g

@Travis Thanks. Yes it is a Nissin master cylinder (MC) with an 11/16" bore. I decided to buy a used MC from an later model Mule. It is diferent than mine in that the push rod is detached from the piston in the MC. On my MC the push rod is one with the piston in the MC which is a bad design as it will tend to cock the piston in its bore during brake application. I am hoping the newer designed MC will fit my 2500 or that I can modify the push rod to work while keeping it detached from the piston. $40 on ebay. I did find some Nissin rebuild kids but these were $40 or more and did not seem to match the components inside my MC. Wish me luck.

My master cylinder is leaking from the rod that goes to brake pedal. I had planed on replacing it with a new one as I had routinely seen them on eBay for $109 but now that I need one the cheapest used cykinder is $134. Does anybody know where I might find a seal kit for the cylinder? Are all Mule cylinder's 11/16" diameter?

@Travis Funny you should ask. Just fired her up today. Runs great. Over boring the one cylinder cured the oil buring problem. The only real problem I had was the place that overbored the one cylinder quoted me $110 over the phone, then when I got there after driving 1.5 hours, they said it would be $227 but gave no explanation why. Then when my neighbor picked it up for me when he was up that way, they charged my credit card $457 to bore an hone one lousey cylinder. I tried contacting them twice and they do not return my calls so I am disputing the charge on my credit card which should turn out alright for me. So its all good. I used the time to paint her up, convert my electric fuel pump to a vacuum one, install a digital water temp guage and wire what was the hi temp light to now be a low oil pressure light. I found a windshield and roof on FB Marketplace for $50 so will install those itmes too along with new tires and LED lighting. Will be good as new for hunting this November in PA.

1. What does the pressure switch (see pic) with one wire going to it do? I don't see an oil pressure idiot light so it must supply ground when seeing no oil pressure to either the fuel pump or the ignition. Does anyone know which system it interrupts? My fuel pump is bad so I am converting to a vacuum fuel pump but don't want to loose the no oil pressure warning feature. I could wire this pressure switch to the over temp light on the dash since I replaced this with a digital temp guage so the over temp dash light is unused at the moment. 2. Inside the crankcase, under the oil pump cover, sits a spring over a steel ball. See pics. This must regulate oil pump pressure. It seems odd to me that there is a gap between the spring and the oil pump cover. Does this gap seem correct? I guess that it could be to insure some zero pressure flow before it gets reduced by the spring???? I don't recall ever seeing another set up with a gap though. Many thanks, Mike

@Travis Thanks for all the effort. I think maybe you are right that it was an option becuase it sure looks like a factory installation. I thought that all the water cooled Mules came with an over temp warning light as standard though???? Anyhow another member directed me to a great website bulbtown.com and I was able to identify two possibilites and ordered them both. If you are willing and your dealer can add any info I would love to have it but if not I think it's likely that I have a solution coming in the mail soon. I fished in Canada this June with a guy from Conroe. I lived in Houston for a year in 1993. Thanks again.

@tfisher15 Many thanks. That particular bulb is too big in diameter but that is a teriffic website for bulbs. I hunted around it and ordered two possibilities that I'm almost certain one of them will work. Thanks for your help!!! Mike

@Travis Yes, in the top right corner. Close up pic shows the housing that these two of the same bulb, are located in.

Does anybody know where to get one of these bulbs? It is the one that lights up when the park brake is applied. Same as the one that lights up when the engine is over temperature. I have checked several places locally without success. Thanks, Mike

@Travis Thanks. What a great feature. Thanks for showing it to me. I'm a little slow.

@Travis Thanks but when I click on the link I don't see any models listed I just see what is in the screenshot below.

My steering column bushings are worn out. I can't find replacement bushings but I can find used columns on Ebay. I would like to buy a newer one so I do not just buy another worn out one. Does anybody know what other year columns will fit a 1999 Mule 2500? Or, perhaps if the bushings on other year columns will fit my column then I could swap out the newer bushings? Thanks, Mike

@Travis Well yes. The usual machine shop experience. Lots of big ego people that pretend to know everything but do not know why they say what they do. First he told me I had coated aluminum cylinder walls and he had to strip them before boring until I proved to him with a magnet that I did not. Then he said I would ruin the engine by only boring only one and not both cylinders but of course could not explain why. He finally agreed to do what I wanted then decided the price for boring one cylinder would be $227 instead of the $116 I was told over the phone. Like I said, the usual machine shop experience. Next I will be bugging them to get it done in the two weeks he promised which I am certain he will run late on. Lots of other things to work on in the mean time.

@Travis Thanks. The piston comes with the bore info per pic. Looks like bore needs to be 76.50mm or .050mm larger than piston diameter.

Finished the cracked hood / cowl repair. I roughed up the plastic surface with a wire wheel, cut a piece of metal much larger than the crack, roughed up the metal surfase with a cut off wheel then bonded the two together with Bondo's Bumper Repair Kit from Amazon. Looks good but only time will tell if it will hold up.

No I do not have any specs. I ordered the manuals and they are due tomorrow.