Jarrad

I am going to step in here and put the truth out there. This fuel tuner was worked on by a member here, Dedub, out of Indiana, this was all his effort, as was the Dyno testing he had done. The travesty of all this is that you were trying to sell something that retails for $250 to the members here for $400, and then claiming it as yours when it is in fact not. People concerened with customers and especially the good members of this board would not be trying to charge them $150 more than the listed retail of the item. The honorable thing to do would be to give credit where credit is due. Jarrad

http://www.electronicjetkit.com/UTV/viewproduct.asp?partnumber=9340001

Call back talk to Chris gordon. I just talked him to where they are and he has one in his hands. I told him you would be calling him.

I used to use some ujoints by Rockford. I don't remember the number but they have a few at no limits.

No limits has the valves and seals in stock

Jeff that really does suck, But when you do get it back togeter at least you won't have to worry about it again for awhile. A good quality air filter is the Key to a happy Joyner experience.

Soon* *this statement is based on speculation, and has no factual basis

Nice setup for crank holder. And the torque all I could find is about same as you. But that is not enough. I cannot say off the top of my head what the "proper" torque is. I never got an update after you started putting it back together. How did the ring endgap look with the new rings?

Awesome was that clutch and pressure plate? Or just the disk? I was speaking of just the disk being 70

Retail is 70 on the disk, there were 16 there at no limits a week ago. I know I laid my hands on them myself. I have seen stock clutches last thousands of miles. There is something went wrong with yours to do that in 150 miles.

Yes. You could pick up a stock disk for $70

The job is not that bad, just time consuming and a little frustrating depending on what approach you take. All in all should take about 5 hours worth of work to get the clutch in and out. I would not think of replacing it with such low mileage unless it is already burned up. When you get the tranny out check for the packed in mud in the bell housing and pressure plate, disassemble it and wash in brakeclean, it evaporates fast and leaves no residue. If the mud is the issue, then find a way to seal it up as best you can when going back together if you insist on playing in the mud. Also go ahead and drain the tranny and diff fluids and change those with a synthetic, I reccomend Royal Purple 75W-90, and find your vent lines for the diffs and tranny and extend them up if there is water in them. something as high or higher than your deepest water you plan on being in. I usually extend them up the cage to the top of the buggy. If you get it that deep then you have real issues that no amount of extending lines and snorkleing will help. Jarrad

I do not know of a automotive cross for the tie rod ends, but the stock ones are fairly inexpensive.

I have seen mud packed into the pressure plate causing an issue like that, also check the linkage where the slave cyl is. Make sure that's not too tight

I used the g-force belts in my buggy and mustang, hey run 70 a set also. Good quality belts IMHO

Garth why don't you give us a little of yours and kris's background in Joyner

You will... Oh yes you will

Yes, welcome Garth, it is a pleasure to have you and Kris with us here at UTVboard.

That's not half bad either. You taking notes rOcmoc?

TR1100 XPLR That's what I am talking about

All the while some projects never end. Let's hear the plans for the new trooper

Awesome. Sounds like a winner to me

Ever thought about a delorean style gull wing door on some gas shocks? Can't wait for pictures of your new doors

Thats what I am talking about

Mike I am also greatfull everything turned out good on your end, you have been a great friend and very helpful to me. Jarrad