Randy

I also replaced the halogen lights on the bar with HID replacement bulbs from a conversion kit. They work out very well. Way brighter than the halogen bulbs. The only 'install' was the boxes to house the transformers (see picture) all the wiring was just unplug the old and plug in the new. The boxes are just $5 plastic junction boxes from Home Depot.

Since all my riding has become so comfortable and trouble free lately (?) I decided to put tunes in the T-2 for some added entertainment (and my wife made me do it!). This unit from VDP contains speakers and amplifier, just plug in the Ipod and the line to the battery and it is done. Seemed like a good compromise on cost vs quality ($350). Sounds as good as can be expected without a subwoofer and it installed pretty easily. Just thought I would share. Randy

Thanks, Lenny. Now that I now the problem exists, I carry the correct wrench to do that within easy reach!

After several successful days of driving, I noticed that my voltmeter was below 12 when previously it had always been above when engine was running (charging). Of course I was miles away and with a large group. I split away and hi-tailed it back to camp (Love my GPS!) just as I noticed the lights dim out and the tach start to fluctuate wildly. Everything pointed to an alternator/regulator problem. Voltage at battery was 11.8vdc and falling even when engine was running. Voltage was present at the alternator. Starter engaged, engine ran, horn worked, etc., just no charge getting to the battery. Turns out that after I cycled the master cutoff switch many times (!) things returned to normal. Weird! Problem never reappeared and I did not touch the switch again to make sure it stayed doing what it was doing. Two questions - 1) How can the master switch prevent charging but allow all other functions? 2) Do I replace the switch or eliminate it? Randy.

I think your listing includes a fuel management unit (fmu) and a 2nd fuel pump (f/p), if so my set up uses the stock fuell pump but also has a blow off valve that allows for quicker spin up - seems to work well. Not sure what they cost. Otherwise, looks like you have a handle on it!

Are you sure it is not a belt? Mine always made a terrible squeal until I replaced the belt and adjusted it correctly. (I am sure you probably checked this already, but I had to ask!)

I have a turbo and have probably logged as much time at Glamis in the last 3 years with my Trooper as anybody. I can say life is grand in the dunes with a turbo. I run with everyone and go everywhere. In the time before I put the turbo on, the biggest improvement came from lighter tires/wheels. The stock wheels/tires are just way too heavy. Unsprung weight is a killer in the sand. At the same time, I used to unload everything I could to run as light as possible - remove jacks, spare wheel/tire, tools, survival stuff, winch, etc. Always made sure I was with someone in case of trouble. I used 12" ITP lightweight rims with 2" reverse offsets on all 4 wheels together with Dunestar paddles rear and steering tires front. Always in 4 wheel drive, locked rear - open front. Worked quite well. Could not climb the steepest hills, but was able to keep up. Momentum is your friend. Now with the turbo I dont unload anything, even leave the spare wheel on it! I have Maxxis Bighorns front and back w/stock rims and just cruise around. Still have to be careful, but I guess that comes with the territory. Randy

Paul, Check out this on ebay it may be a good place to start. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Joyner-trooper-viper-renegade-alternator-/150688267731?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2315b87dd3 How did you break it? Good luck!

I thought the same thing until I found out that AvGas is LOW lead, not UNleaded. I understand that it is not good for anything but emergency use (except of course for airplanes that are designed for it). I go to a little auto shop on the westside near 51st ave and Bethany Home Rd. I use so little of it (compared to the hundreds of dollars of Diesel I use in the MH!) that I just don't worry about the cost. I try to have 20 gallons on hand all the time. Hardly ever run through more than 10 gal on the average trip.

Paul, I have the stock fuel pump. The fuel controller should help with the turbo requirements I would think. I ride regularly with RZR's, RZR 4's, Ranger's, Rhino's etc. I am the 'old fart' of the group (the others are my son's and their friends) and I got the turbo so I could keep up. The t-2 w/turbo will out accelerate any of them if you can handle the gear box. I have never been out climbed. The main limiting factor is from my neck up, I am a conservative driver and I am sure someone else could get more performance out of my rig, but I like it and it works for me! (I am more often at the pulling end of the tow strap than the other way around). I find that on anything but the most difficult or fastest rides, the turbo just smoothes out the edges to give that extra margin. I used to get into scary situations before the turbo ie - down into a bowl or needing to crest a hill too fast to maintain momentum. Now I have confidence that when push comes to shove, I can power out of it. And I still get 25 mpg! (I do have to run 100 octane unleaded, $8 gal, ouch!)

2scoops, My turbo was installed 2 years ago by Scott at Unleashed Motorsports in Prescott (he is now in Mesa, I think?). I have about 1500 miles on the turbo and 2500 miles overall on the Trooper. I have had to 'PB Blaster' the waste gate linkage which got a little sticky and allowed overboost, but other than that, no issues. I dialed up the pressure on the fuel regulator, but I think it still leans out when you are in full boost for a long period of time. I just back out of it and then get back on and it is fine. No intercooler. I can hear and feel the turbo at around 2k and boost guage shows activity above about 2.5k. It really does deliver good midrange pull when I call on it. If I get in trouble at low speeds (often!) it responds quickly to a downshift, but can be too much if not careful. Hill climbing is where it really works..... If I take the right line I can take Oldsmobile (if you are familiar with Glamis) in 4th gear 5k+ rpm (10# of boost) almost all the way up. I have downshifted on hills and been able to maintain boost, but if you miss the shift....its over. It is also very easy to get into the rpm limiter which kills momentum bigtime! I don't use paddles anymore, I found they did not add much if anything and were a pain to switch back and forth. I use Maxxis Bighorn's for everything and they do a good job. From a theoritical point of view, the supercharger would be more effective at lower rpm, but I like the idea of not pushing the HP through the drive train unless I call on it. I don't do a lot of rock crawling so I cannot really speak to pros an cons. Overall, installing the turbo is the best single thing I have done to improve the drivability of my T-2. My wife even likes it!

Just returned from a week at Rocky Point. It was fantastic, no problems of any kind. Felt as safe as I could be (I am always a little 'careful' in Mexico). The border crossing at Lukeville was uneventful both directions (except the US side entry gates are still too narrow for my Motorhome!). I would have to say Puerto Penasco is 'A - Okay' and just the same as it always was. There was not as much traffic or crowds because of the economy or the cartel stuff or both. Sun sand and cerveza was as good as ever. I am now planning a trip to San Felipe for the BAJA 250 in March.

Very disappointing! There are quite enough uncertainties about travelling south without adding that as well. I will keep an eye on it, but I am a little nervous about committing time and money to put together a trip for the 3 or 4 groups (family and friends) that want to go down there........ Maybe things will get clearer soon. I really want to poke around out in the desert of Baja. As you know, it is a special environment. I compare the feeling of solitude and 'connectedness' (?) to the feeling I get at Glamis, way out away from it all in the dunes. Thank goodness you made me aware! I would hate to have been blindsided. Randy

You scared me with the permit stuff, I think for the type of trip I would make there is no permit/import fee required. I copied this from a Mexican Insurance site: Article Summary Banjercito - Mexico's Banco Nacional del Ejército Fuerza Aérea y Armada - is the government authority who issues vehicle permits. NO VEHICLE IMPORT PERMIT IS NECESSARY TO DRIVE IN THE ENTIRE BAJA PENINSULA OR ROCKY POINT. Vehicle import permits are needed if you travel outside of Baja or outside the border zones (generally further than 16 miles from the border) or outside the permit-free zones of Sonora. Looking for a Sonora Only permit? Read our article: Sonora Only Vehicle Permits Vehicle permits may be obtained thru Banjercito's online process, at a Banjercito office at the border or at certain Mexican Consulates (listed below). Don't forget your Mexican insurance policy. Quick quote and buy online instantly. I am 'tentatively' planning on attending the BAJA 250 in San Felipe this coming March (as a spectator this time). I have my fingers crossed that everthing goes smoothly. Randy

I have never had any heating issue of any kind. When I thought I had heating issues when I first got the Trooper, it turned out to be the guage calibration. Since that was resolved, it stays right in line. I live in Phoenix and spend a lot of time in the desert so I would think I would push the heating issue as much as anyone. I replaced 1 CV Axle (not sure it really needed it, but rebuilt left rear bearing and wanted to be conservative) and upgraded to the CV driveshaft. I always use 4wd to balance the load on the output shaft which I was told is a weak spot. But other than that, just normal upkeep and adjustment. I have over 2500 km on the buggy and probably more than 1500 km of that was after the Turbo install. I am a pretty conservative driver, (my wife is usually with me to keep me in line), but I still get into situations where I use every bit of power/suspension that I have. Randy

No dyno info. I can tell you that because of the close gearing of the transmission, there never seems to be a situation where boost is unavailable. I can feel and hear the turbo at lower RPM's, but the boost guage is around 0, so it does not seem to measure any output until around 2200 - 2500 rpm. In fact, I dialed it down from the 10lbs I was getting to around 7lbs so that on long grades/hills (like Oldsmobile at Glamis) I could stay in the throttle. I was haveing to feather it at 10lbs because it would try to spin through the rev limiter (6000rpm) too quickly. The best part is I do not have to concern myself so much with weight. I can carry the spare, use Maxxis Bighorn tires in all conditions, even deep sand at Glamis, bring my wife and dog, etc, etc. Just more enjoyable all the way around. But I am not a racer, I am in it for the long haul. I use the power to get where I am going, not to see how fast I can go. Randy

I can't help you on the tech specs but I can say that putting a turbo on my Trooper 2 yrs ago was the best single modification I have done. The improvement in drivability is staggering. My system was installed by Scott at Unleashed Motorsports in Cottonwood, AZ. I don't know if he is still up there or not. The catalytic converter and O2 sensors are all stock. Randy

Beautiful country. Wonderful video. Thanks for that. I really miss the Sonora and Baja trips we used to make - San Felipe, Ensenada. Even Rocky Point has some offroad adventure (Rocky Point to El Golfo, started a few times, never finished!). Been going that way regularly for 35 years, but have not ventured that way for 18 months or so. I hope the problems south of the border diminish to a tolerable level soon......... Randy

Lenny, I have been curious about the cause of my bearing failure. I had supposed that the stress of the wobble with loose lugnuts over the several miles of difficult terrain before the wheel came off either caused or contributed substantially to the failure. Are you saying that it is unrelated? I also run 3" offset (2-5) wheels with my paddle tires - do you think that had more of an effect over time? Randy

Mine was easy. The lug nuts wobbled loose and the wheel fell off! Not sure which came first, the bearing failure or the loose lugnuts. Now when I have the wheels in the air to change from paddles to bighorns or back, I try to wobble it. If it shows up as more than just a teeny wobble, then probably a bearing. Randy

I must have one of the 'originals', purchased January, 2008 from the factory in Tempe. I have just over 2600 km, all basically trouble-free! Replaced wheel bearing (loose lugnuts), upgraded driveshaft to CV's last week, Turbo installed August, 2009. Always carry a full load (me, wife, dog) and can go anywhere.........mostly desert trails and sand dune riding. Knock on wood..... Randy

FYI, Autozone stocks a direct replacement, 51-DLG. Exact fit, low maintenance, 3 year replacement - $95.00. Randy.

Thanks to both of you, but I have already gotten the rim and I am good to go.

I got the Hub from Buggy World in Santee, CA (Alyssha at parts - she was terrific). The Axle was from No Limits in Texas (Justin. They were very good, also). The bearing was from Silverbullet in Yuma - (Rich was a life saver!) In backward analysis - I believe that the whole issue spiraled out from using the 'Tuner' lug nuts from my sand wheels instead of the beefier lugnuts made for that wheel, they loosened up on very demanding terrain and took out the other parts. Oh well, live and learn.