Mackc

AMEN!

You need to download a service manual for your model UTV, since you have access to the internet. There is a page on this forum where you can get one downloaded and IT IS FREEEE! , as Joe Natmath says on TV. You may need to use a computer or maybe even a smart cell phone, I used my desktop computer.

I would think that the part that blew up would be all that is bad, looks like it showed you where the problem is

this is just the nature of the beast "gears grinding when shifting " make sure it is idleing BELOW 2000 RPM' OR STOP , kill the engine , shift Gear, put your foot on brake and start the engine"

Sorry , Scott but you seem to be searching for answers rather than being helpful for us that don't have Mule SUVs, I did have a 3010 water cooled Mule, and likemost asian SUvs it was an electronic nightmare.

I also had a 3010 Mule and sound wasn't a problem, this problem was concerning a Massimo Buck 400.

Get some heat but mostly noise.

I want the sound of the engine to be dulled in the cabin and the heat from the engine reduced in the cabin in summer.

What type and brands of insulation do you use in the cabin, floor and engine compartment of your Massimo and related 4 by 4 UtVs specially Massimo Buck 400s?

I do have a couple of suggestions, first always allow the engine to idle below 2000RPM, if it won't do that adjust the idle down to around 1800 RPMS, If that still don't work keep your foot on the brake peddle and kill the engine, then with your foot still on the brake shift into the gear you need and hit the starter, my 400 Buck will then start.

I have a Massimo 2019 Buck 400 and the wet clutch uses the engine oil . The transmission and final drive both use gear oil

I worked in Lafayette, New Iberia and Houma for Big Red my Job as Auditor for Hazardous materials from 1982 to when I retired in 1997 and didn't let them gators bother me either Did a lot of fishing. several times I had to swing around some of the big ones when they decided to warm themselves on the road or just slowly walk across the road.

My Buck 400 holds 1.4 Qts. and I figure it was prudent to use the other half Qt to mix with the small residual anount the vacuum would not pick up. since I buy 2 Qts for an oil change, I didn't want to contaminate the sump with other oil than what should be put into the engine, , I figure on the third oil change I wil go under and pull the drain plug and clean the screen.

This is what you have. To do an oil change without trying to pull the drain plug and it's attached oil screen, pull the dipstick and use a short handle 7/8" open end wrench to unscrew the dipstick bushing from the aluminum engine sump casting, yes the shifting cable is in the way, be careful not to break the shifting cable housing. I used an oil change suction pump (12 volt) to suck out the used oil, added a half Qt of new oil to mix with the residual old oil in the sump and then use the suction pump to suck out the half Qt of new oil and the residual old oi,. Since you will only need a Quart and half to fill the sump. You will need the remaining qt. and 1/2 of oil. I used an old automatic transmission oil funnel to fill the sump with new oil. Screw the dipstick bushing back in the engine and check the oil level with the dipstick back and be ready to go.

Is this with the old solenoid? I

A good strong fully charged battery that is tested with this type of tester should read around 13.6 volts with no load and hold 12 volts under load, and return to 12.8 volta or more unless it has a bad cell or a bad terminal. $37.xx on Amazon

Okay, Maybe it ain't the STARTER! Maybe you havent checked all the possibilities; Battery dead cell Batteries are cheaper than starters, and often go bad. Bad connectioin to solinoid, start switch Poor ground? Did you ever switch batteries? or boost the battery, or bypass the battery cable with a booster cable, or maybe your flywheel is bad. Kawasakies have way too many electronic safety things, some of them could be intermittened

From what I am seeing the 4 wd switch engages and disengages the front wheel drive, and maybe it don't work when the transmission is in REVERSE?

Massimo Tech? could that be an oxymoron term for a person that bolts wheels onto a Chinese crate job?

Sorry to disappoint you about the rear "differential" There is NO DIFFERENTIAL in the rear! The rear end is just a ring gear and pinion, If you doubt what I am saying jack up both rear wheels and with the shifter in neutral and the parking brake off, spin one wheel, if the opposite wheel turns the same direction as the one you are spinning there is no differential when you turn, the wheels slide around the corner, both at the same speed

Actually a full battery should show 13.6 +or- VDC so you are ok, just need to use a load battery checker to see if your battery puts out the volts and amps it is supposed to.

About whether there is a "locking differential" on their UTV?????? There is so much misinformation appearing here from folks that don't have any idea what they are posting, check it out for yourself rather than jumping on the smart phone or computer and asking questions.

After starting in neutral let the engine RPMs drop below 2000 before shifting into gear.

Clutch shares the engine oil.

Does it ever turn the engine over at all ? If not pull the sparkplug out to relieve the compression and try the starter, I bet it may be the battery, cable or solinoid . Hey, I am over 80 years old been working on cars and trucks ever since I was a pup. I rebuilt the engine on my 1930 Ford model A when I was 12, and I still got stymied with a 12 volt battery with some bad cells. and a leaking carb float valve that filled my single cylinder engine's cylinder with gasoline (guess what....gasoline don't compress) while it was parked for a month. I have been learning new stuff forever. I am not a big fan of Japanese and Chinese 4 cycle Internal Combustion engine designs. 😒