Mackc

Yes, I did NOT remove the oil drain plug, and YES, since I didn't remove the drain plug and was going to have a half of a Qt of oil leftover I decided it was prudent to use it as a rinse . (The half of a quart only cost $2.35 ) Well today I buttoned up the Buck 400 after the oil change, The old oil was really black and and a little over a quart was sucked out at about 150 degrees F after warming the engine up for 10 minutes. Then I added the 1/2 Qt of oil for the rinse. the engine was still warm and the pump pumped almost all of the 1/2 rinse Quart out. I did have time for a test ride. I warmed the engine up at an idle for a couple minutes while checking for anything falling off or any leaks, everything is okay, I had a bit of jerking backing out of the shop and then in high gear for a couple of starts and stops then it started smoothing out, well as smooth as can can be expected, as the clutch has to have enough RPMs to spin up and engage the drive. after a half mile ride and a complete stop and start it is doing okay. the odometer showed 207 and I reckon in the area of 20 to 30 hours before this it's first oil change.

This is the oil change pump I have: ATPTOOL12V 60W Oil Change Pump Extractor, Oil/Diesel Fluid Pump Extractor Scavenge Oil Change Pump Transfer Suction Transf Sold by: ATP $17.88

Has any of the members here on the UTV Board ordered parts from Excalibur Motorsports in Calif. on Ebay? I saw that they have a lot of parts, I was looking for a remote switch for the Buck 400 winch.

BTW: The manual says "Don't screw the dipstick in to check the oil level after filling with oil" that would make the maximum oil level the length of the threads on the dipstick bushing maybe about less than a 1/4" Also the owners manual shows that the first oil change should be after 1 month of break in, and then at 500 miles or more often in dirty conditions and cooler weather, so my read was -"more often is better"

I did my prep for an oil change this afternoon. I can see where It is better to not pull the dipstick bushing out. The lower gear shifting cable runs close over the bushing , and there isn't room for a box end, or an deep 7/8 socket (I don't have a 7/8" aircraft sparkplug socket) I did get the shift cable out of the way and pulled the dipstick bushing out with a 10 inch Crescent wrench. I only had to use the wrench to break it loose then unscrewed it by hand. The bushing is course threaded, hard black plastic and after I got it off saw that a 7/8" open end wrench fits exactly. I had an old Snap-On 3/4 by 7/8 really thin low torque open end wrench and cut the 3/4 end off and ground down the rather wide jaws . for a custom fit. After I run the engine and heat the oil up a bit, I will use the 12v oil change suction pump to pull out the old oil, rather than try to pull the drain plug, after I run the engine and heat the oil up a bit. after I get all of the old oil out I will pour a half a Qt. of new oil in, My old long tapered ATF funnel is just the right size, then let it sit for a few minutes then suck it out to carry the residual old oil out, Then pour in a Qt of Valvoline 4 stroke ATV/UTV 10W40 in along with the 1/2 Qt. from the other container, replace the dipstick bushing and check for the oil level. If it isn't at the full mark I will add more oil and if it is way over full I will suck out some with the oil change pump, it's small tube does pass thru the dipstick hole okay.

I got my Buck 400 up to seventy -five MPH yesterday, I slowed down to 55 MPH because I was afraid the top was gonna come off and I was on a Farm to Market road. 🎌 Yeah It was on a trailer behind my old Chevy pickup!

The air filter is in the metal box, with a lid, on top of the engine kind of beside the battery, inside the frame, raise the cargo bed to get to it. I think that that white filler plug is for the transmission. Anyone have a more positive answer? A local Buck 400 owner said you have to unscrew the dipstick bushing and his new 400 from TSC came with a wrench that looks like an old timey open top hex spark plug wrench with a hole in the side to stick a screwdriver thru for a handle.

Owners manual says .34 gallons. There is no oil filter, just a screen that is able to be removed for cleaning after pulling the oil sump plug The next question may be.....Where in hell is the oil filler cap? Isn't one you have to pull the hex head bushing and oil dipstick tube to add oil

Okay, I didn't understand all of what "having it pinned" in this case, I've been pinned in, pinned down,pig penned and several other "pinnings"

Your best bet would to send a Personal Message to strike250, include your want for a Buck 400 service manual and he can email you and include an attachment that can be downloaded, It will have everything included in the $75 hard paper version except the binder and fancy outer cover.

No, but the time it takes to read the thing , may out weigh the useful content, it did for me. The pictures are few and far between and most of the directions apply to components already taken out of the UTV, how to get them out are saddly missing, like the getting to magneto, getting to the drive clutches, and belts, not even any info wrench sizes or anything on the electric winch . I had already ordered a paper one when I received the download from Matt and it took it a couple of weeks to get here (from less than 140 miles) the price is outrageous , By the way. I felt like I had just gave away over $75 plus tax, shipping, and etc.,etc. I am familiar about Service manuals on a great number of old cars. I used to restore vintage Chevrolets from the 1920s 30s and up thru the 1970s so I have a fairly good idea what a "service-manual" should contain, I like exploded diagrams and understand what really informative images of components should look like. (BTY I don't read Chinese, and there seems to be much lost in the translation) Since I have the service manual downloaded on several devices and the hard copy in the shop I have used some of it, the basic stuff is the same as the original owners manual like the service manual does not have the enlightening information that the oil filling amount is .34 gallons.

Thanks, from one Texas old codger to another Texan, good idea, I ordered an 12 volt oil scavenger suction oil changer pump yesterday for $18 plus change from Amazon. I also have a set of 1/2" metric deep sockets to pull the dipstick/oil filler bushing out with, I didn't get the original Spark plug wrench looking tool from the P.O. I think the dipstick tube will pass thru the 1/2" square opening in the deep socket if not I will drill it out and weld another 1/2"socket on top of it. I have an old automatic tranny filler extended funnel to refill the oil sump with. I saw in the owner's manual that the engine holds 0,34 gallons, what a figure for an oil change! I also got a six pack of quarts of Valvoline Motorcycle/ ATV, etc., etc. conventional 10W - 40W oil ordered from Walmart.com ($18 plus change), since I live over 40 miles from a Walmart store. The $5.99 shipping for a purchase under $35 is a bargain for me. I want to extend my thanks to all that have posted about this subject which is hardly worth reading in the manual

Kind of fantasizing here, (bought a Buck 400 with 208 miles less than a year old runs fine so far, been reading on this forum. Since I can't lie down on the ground (Had a broken hip and being old and lame) withthe oil pump with drain is at the rear of the sump, would it be okay to use the winch and pull the front of the UTV up at a 45 degree uphill angle drain the oil ,replace the plug, let it down with the winch and fill it with motor oil? Also where could one of the Fumoto valves be purchased online?

I don't know if we need permission to copy and store this information. . . .but if it is legal and with Forum Administrators Joe's permission , it may be possible to Copy and Paste this posting into a word processing program like Word, Wordperfect, or Office text document, I think each pictorial image would need to be copied and pasted separately from the excellent text portion of the posting. Does anyone know if it would be legal to copy and paste and save on your computer, and then print the posting for private use as long as it isn't published on a other place or website?

I noticed in the manual that 10 W40 motor oil is recommended, but having a wet clutch isn't a special oil like for motorcycles needed what oil should be used also with no spin on oil filter. I have Quaker State 30wt that I use in my riding mowers. Is it okay for the Massimo Buck 400 S?

Thanks for the condolences! BTW I worked in New Iberia as a Resource Manager Analyst for Halliburton back in the 1980s and 1990s

Good news about the cold start being jerky, I had seen the buck 400 here at a distant neighbors place when he bought it at TSC, also in a few months his twin sister next door also bought one after they moved here from out of state. Both of the Buck 400 have been used daily without problems, I I bought the one from the guy (distant neighbor) for what I saw as a good price, I didn't have to drive 100 miles to pick it up or wait until TSC got a any available nor have to pay sales tax on it. It has 200 miles on it and is only 1 year old, his wife didn't like the noise, they used the money to buy a, older used gas powered Club Car One thing is for sure, Websites on Dot com always look really great......Then we check out the real world on UTVBoard forums.

Many thanks to strike250! Great to have response from the good guy here

I would be glad to donate toward your choice place for a downloadable copy of a Massimo Buck 400 service manual. Newbie to Massimo 400 Mackc email: [email protected] Thanks everyone that replied, I did get a download manual From Matt, thanks I'm in good shape for now on this kind of strange creature that Buck 400 is to me.

being a new Buck 400 owner, It would be nice to know how to by-pass the fan thermostatic switch. I have a don't have a service manual just the poor excuse for a owner's manual, I'm judging because I at one time had a job that required me to write manuals for new engineer recruits, so I do know how detailed manuals need to be, which is hardly what we get now a days, every thing just points us to You Tube GAG GAG!

Does the manufacturer of the engine recommend flushing the cooling system when replacing hoses ,water pump or coolant? FIW; yes the velocity of the coolant thru the area of the radiator is a big factor in cooling. The velocity of the coolant fluid thru the radiator (more may not be better) is a big factor in the coolant's heat loss, as is the volume of air passing thru the radiator (more is better) so keep the radiator air ways clean,. also the chemical makeup of the coolant is a factor. I use 50% distilled water and 50% good Ethylene-glycol concentrated coolant( Peak, Zerex, Prestone, store brand, I get mine at Tractor Supply, Company) which is also the dealer for my Buck 400 , premixed coolant, is fine if you want to pay extra for diluted coolant. I doubt that having an extra electric pump in line with the original working pump would be a problem. be careful if the original pump us locked up or burned out , it may be better to just replace the original pump.

Hello, I'm back from Kawasaki 2004 3110 Mule land and now am struggling thru the Massimo Buck 400 swamp. I bought a 2019 Buck 400 with 200 hours on it and am going thru the owner's manual. I have noticed a couple of things needing addressed after driving it home. I t is rough starting off, like maybe the drive clutches and or belt are not exactly right. also the parking brake is a question mark. The manual shows (seems to me) that pulling the handle down should disengage the parking brake, not this one, pulling up disengages the parking brake, also the handle is really hard to move while holding the super strong button. The handle will only go down a smidgining past half way. Do I need to work on this? This old man will ask for help in a NY minute! please stand at ease, I' will be in the area. Actually that was 200 MILES and only 22 Hours.