M C

Hey guys pulling the tranny right now to fix a bent shift fork and leaking seals. Noticed my driver side rear axle pulling apart when I removed it. CV joint is busted, I have not opened the boot to see whats happened yet but wanted to know if anyone knows if a domestic axle that will work or can we rebuild those CVs?

Kinda. Crank sensor was actually mostly missing, parts in the flywheel area. Replaced, still some hesitation but 90% better.

My seals on the tranny are leaky as it is I may just have to pull the bastard out. Might run without it for now and enjoy it a little before I pull it all back down. edit: the output shaft seals. Whoever did clutch job messed them up it looks like. What a damn mess.

Cps got it! Got the trash out of the transmission bell house etc. we ran 6 hours last night problem free as far as motor is concerned minus I need to increase fuel presssure back up. You can tell it is fuel starving. That said my 5th gear started popping out a few times then it appears I have lost it all together now so here we go again. Appears to go in gear but there is nothing there it seems. Gonna check cable adjustment and if that doesn’t get it then guess I’ll have to pull the bugger out

Ordered one from china but wont be here for 4-6 weeks. Called Joyner and they wanted $110 before shipping for that run 8-14$ from china. Not paying a 90$ premium. Anyone know someplace reasonable or a US part number that cross references with a KR2804?

Ordered one from china but wont be here for 4-6 weeks. Called Joyner and they wanted $110 before shipping for that run 8-14$ from china. Not paying a 90$ premium. Anyone know someplace reasonable or a US part number that cross references with a KR2804?

I think I found it! Completely pulled entire fuel system again tonight and recleaned and rewired pump to a toggle for testing.. no dice. For Shits and giggles I dumped pressure at 100psi and it reved up mostly normal sounded then I heard it retard then drop timing.. while this is all happening I hear that random familiar sound of what I thought may had been detonation then a pop. A bb size hole next to my crank angle sensor appeared. Pulled crank angle sensor out abs the entire damn sensor is completely eaten away. They said it ran great until clutch job.. now I believe it lol. So can I get away with just pulling the tranny apart from housing bolted to engine or do I have to pull the entire damn thing off the motor? I am Just assuming there is no access hole so I can get the remainder of the crank angle sensor out of there without pulling it apart? Makes sense those because my tachometer has been appearing super sluggish and sporadic.

Joyner usa told me they feel it’s fuel. Not sure what else to try as far as fuel is concerned. Filter, pump, fpr and lines all replaced. Tank cleaned and verified via clear filter that it is keeping solid fuel supply. I was running 50psi, they said 60+ recommended so I will try that tonight. Did get a map sensor on the way and a new tps. My current tps when checking resistance was ranging from 2 at close to 7 at open. I believe I had read it was suppose to be no more than 2 at open.

Gotcha. Yea the part numbers I found for the chery is only available in Chinese market it did say it was a Siemens sensor

You reckon any o2 connector with same plug/wires will be fine? I think it’s been running like shit for a while based on how much soot was on both sensors I’ve always pulled o2 sensors in cars that been running right as brown and clean.

Assume there is no way to read the diagnostic codes in this thing? I found the weird 2 wire plug I assume is the diagnostic port next to battery

No I wasn’t able to drive it. It had a bad shaft seal on tranny from a botched clutch job. I have not cleaned maf, will get some cleaner today. Also see if I can find some o2 sensors that will fit since I can’t find part numbers anywhere

Is the firing order in the manual? I didn’t notice it. I ran multiple new grounds tonight, made no difference. I did for shits and giggles swap the o2 sensor and it runs like complete shit after swapping. Both were super sooty so I am wondering if o2 sensors can cause it to go into limp

I aM so f%{%{%{%ing frustrated. Replaced fuel pump, fpr and all lines just to verify it cannot be fuel system. Checked the injectors for flow and they are spraying well. I got 50psi until 3k Rpm when it cuts spark.. still fuel pressure isn’t moving. It’s like hitting rev limit or it dropping cylinders etc. is there any other forums to check? I’ve read through this and I see people talking about limp home mode from sensors but I don’t see how to test said sensors. I don’t want to waste 700$ abs 3 months waiting on them from China.

Replaced the fuel filter. Got a new pump on the way as I have no way to see if it’s dropping pressure when I’m driving it. At idle when I first start it, it revs out fine. After a minute I want to say it breaks up. Basically it gets to 3k and completely stops reving and sounds like it’s dying and bucks. This is in any gear. I did start motor and start disconnecting sensors and I noticed running difference when unplugged on almost all of the engine sensors. I wish there was a way to test these sensors since we have no way to get codes. Feel like I’m just throwing money at it until it runs.