Mark Popeye

So, I replaced all relays (because I couldn't find info on which one is for 4wd). With UTV on blocks, the driveshaft turns but not the wheels. Ended up buying a brand new snow blower and going to post this for sale. Was hoping to have the 4WD working beforehand.

Yea, the relays I've found (by battery box) all seem the same, except for the directional's. Can't really chase wires from differential back, as they (for some reason) go under the unit. No way to access them from there. Unfortunately, the same colored wires (at differential) don't match any of the relay harnesses, so that makes it more of a challenge. Will try swapping relays around and see what happens. I have a local looking into it and may pay him to figure it out.

So, I have it jacked up but fronts don't spin (no matter whether I push button or not). I had it unplugged at differential and tried to find voltage (volt meter) . Saw nothing (unless I am doing it wrong). Is there a relay for this? If so, do you know which one it is? Looking around battery box and see what appears to be several. Googling it is not productive at the moment.

The button shows on the dash, after pressed. Just what I want, more stuff to check. Not even sure where to look. Any idea where I can see a manual? Maybe there's something I'm missing?

So, got it back from guy working on it. I ended up mounting a deep cycle marine battery, in the center, battery supposed to be for it, doesn't want to start. Runs but won't engage 4WD. No matter which way button is. Looking to sell it asap but would like the 4WD to work first.

The CDI is $32. Still searching for ECM (unless they're one and the same). I was told there are multiple computers on my UTV.

Well, seems to be going from bad to worse. I have an ATV mechanic working on it. He's adjusted the valves, got the compression correct but has no spark. The last time I tried to start it, I got smoke from around ignition area. He's wondering if the ECM is bad? He's advised me that it's at the point where it's crazy to dump more money into it. Heck they won't even take it in trade! He suggests selling it but who would buy a non-running UTV?

If I add jumper cables (at least the last time I did), it fired right up. https://www.walmart.com/ip/UPG-12V-35Ah-AGM-Sealed-Lead-Acid-Battery-UB12350-U1-Group/168009742 This is the battery I recently purchased (This is the one Qlink said went with mine). Wondering if it's not strong enough. Even with disconnect utilized, I still seem to be having starting problems. I guess I could replace the positive cable. Was thinking about taking battery back to WalMart for testing as well. Maybe that's a lemon?

Wondering if my cold cranking amps aren't enough. I did verify that I purchased the correct battery. Battery disconnect is functioning, starting but still sluggish sometimes.

So, pulling the 13.5v as tested and battery tested 13ish. Was dead as a door nail yesterday. Put the kill switch in and currently charging it again. We'll see how it does, with power killed.

I snipped the feed to radio. Still starting up but not the best. How does one check to make sure it's charging battery, when running? Trying not to buy more unnecessary parts again. Seems to fire up, at full charge. That's why I'm installing a kill switch. I want to see if anything's causing battery to drain, while not in use. I need to get more fuel hoses to change out as well.

I also seem to have something draining battery. I ordered a kill switch, just to see. The more I work on it, the less I want it. We'll see how this goes. Wasn't looking for another project, I have enough. LOL

Well, in my quest to check all my grounds, I noticed a large, vacuum line (off carb), with split ends. I must have bumped it because I couldn't keep the UTV running. I realized it was carb/fuel related, so I grabbed some tape and temp fixed the hose ends. It's starting better than before. Gonna see how it is in the morning. I also see that it could use a new fuel filter. Not sure how long it was sitting before but I'm gonna look at all the vacuum/type hoses.

So, I fixed a vacuum hose on carb and it appears to be starting a little better. We'll see in morning if it still does start. The video posted is what it's doing now, which is a lot better than before. video-1604781634.mp4

@kenfain Carbureted.

So, I met someone who says it's not a valve problem, seeing that it runs fine. Said it's a grounding problem. I spent the day checking founds and still nothing. Frustrating. Told the wife if we get it fixed, I'm cutting my losses and dumping it. Stick with a brand name.

Ideas?

Pulled plug and did the test. Spun no problem. Put plug back in and it started right up. Did it a few more times and went back to usual. I watched this video before but I have 3 valves and not sure how or where to get feeler gauge in. Also, trying to find clearances is a PIA.

It doesn't say OHV on the valve cover. Easy enough to remove it. 3 valves. One cylinder. Can I just pull the plug wire off or do I have to remove plug?

How hard is this to repair? As a DIYer, should I even attempt this?

Hi, Just purchased a 2010 Qlink Frontrunner 700. Using it to plow my yard (just moved back to NH). I knew it had starting issues but that was mostly around the starter relay (as shown, when I was looking at it). I rewired (and soldered) the 4 wires that go to relay, replaced the relay, starter and battery. It still starts extremely hard but runs great. I don't know what else to check. On another topic, which way do wheel hub nuts turn to loosen? TIA.