cliffyk

You're gonna need baling wire too--and it goes without saying, beer...

They are like most wild animals. more afraid of you than you are of them--just two rules: 1) Don't get one cornered, especially a bull; 2) Don't get between a cow and her hacthlings;

I'm sure it is, then again they tell me riding motorcycles is "dangerous" too--I've been doing that for over 60 years. Danger and I are old friends, ny uncle taught me all about it when I was 19. It was my Uncle Sam, he gave me a new fangled barely tested lightweight aluminum and plastic thing called an m16 and sent me to a place called Vietnam. I was there for 13 months and when I got back I found that regular run-of-the-mill danger did not bother me a whole lot. I have found that I am at times--such as when people are almost literally pissing their pants over a particularly bad strain of the flu--oddly pleased I had that experience as I do not have to shake in my boots (which I am not ashamed to say I have literally done) each time someone tries to convince me the sky is falling. "The whole aim of practical politics is to keep the populace alarmed (and hence clamorous to be led to safety) by menacing it with an endless series of hobgoblins, all of them imaginary." -H. L. Mencken- ^^^This^^^ is as true a thing as has ever been said. It and my experiences as a 19-year-old kid are and parcel part of the reason the Government and I don't get along well--they trained me to smell bullshit from 14,000 miles away... See, you got me "going" again... ----------------------------------------------------- H.L. Mencken was a brilliant man (more quotes here). I wish I could have known him.

it's Florida--my wife is a native and when asked by visitors as to whether a particular body of fresh water "has alligators?" she says "Only if it's wet." There's no place to fish for bass here that doesn't have gators. Disney World is crawling with them...

Run like Hell...

Drill bits for acrylic (and other plastic) sheets have a "pointier" tip anlge than a typical twist drill (60° vs. 120° to 135°) to minimise the drill chipping out a mess when it "breaks through" t'other side and chipping in general. Standard twist drills cal b e easily ground to make them into "plasic bits"... Commercial plastic bits often have a rough, sand-blasted like finish on the steep exposed flutes.

In the cylinder head...

Before it started I was trying to catch bass, they el-legato decided to play

Sometimes just jiggling things about will clear up llightly loose or corroded connections...

It would appear to be a front "Rollway Assy" (a magnetic clutch of some sort) ) as used in a Strike800 and other similarly sized models. $235 from alpha-sports.com. (I'm a retired mechanical engineer, research is a big chunk of engineering)... y

What year/model Hisun?

View File 2017/2018 Hisun HS400 Service Manual As the the filename indicates, service manual for the2017/2018 Hisun HS400 and Coleman Outfitter 400/UT400... Submitter cliffyk Submitted 03/03/2021 Category Hisun  

It has to read something--while cranking it should detect at least 0.0 to 0.5 V (0.0 is not likely as that would indicate no resistance in the path--not possib;le in the real world). Are you 100% certain? One lead (red or black, doesn't matter) to the + battery post and the other to the + terminal on the starter motor. NO ground or -battery connection... Crank long enough for the meter to stabilse (3 to 5) seconds.

Is it one of those damned auto-function /auto-ranging meters? They often react too slowly and get confused--can it be locked into reading volts? Preferably in a 0-5 V or so range...

The gators... I once was fishing from the shore and a 5 or 6 footer followed the lure in to 25 feet or so offshore, than turned and swam off. I did this a few more times and on the 4th or 5th cast he followed it in and dived instead of swimming off--I made a hasty retreat; those guys can move pretty fast for a bit even out of the water...

Both are while cranking to place a load on the wiring-- no current flow = no voltage drop and it's the drop under load we care about.

Or vice versa. with a digital meter it doesn't matter--one way you'll get positive value--tother way a negative reading. It's the magnitude that's important...

You can do similarly with the ground path, black lead to the negative battery post, red lead to the starter body. This indirectly tests the integrity of the ground path--again 0.0 V would be perfect, 0.2 to 0.5 acceptable, more than 0.8 bad...

Please make the measurement I described last: "between the + battery post and the + post on the stater? In a perfect world that measurement should be 0.0 V--I.e. no voltage loss between the battery and the starter. Note: there is no connection to "ground" or the negative battery terminal in this test. Red lead to the + battery post, the black lead to the +starter terminal. This is somewhat counter-intuitive, however we want to measure the voltage difference between those points--it is an indicator of the circuit resistance.

[quote] Also, what is he voltage between the +battery post and the +terminal on the starter while cranking/trying to crank it over? (this tests the voltage drop, an indicator of the resistance of all wiring, solenoid contacts, etc between in battery and starter.. 11.90 while cranking [/quote] 11.90 v would be very odd. Are you sure you measured between the + battery post and the + post on the stater? In a perfect world that measurement should be 0.0 V--I.e. no voltage loss between the battery and the starter. Note: there is no connection to "ground" or the negative battery terminal in this test. Red lead to the + battery post, the black lead to the +starter terminal. This is somewhat counter-intuitive, however we want to measure the voltage difference between those points--it is an indicator of the circuit resistance. In the real world 0.2 to 0.5 V would not be unusual, much more than 0.6 to 0.8 V means a bad wire, connection and/or contacts.

All batteries have an quite low internal resistance. A typical lead acid battery in good condition will have a resistance of 3 to 5 mΩ (0.003 to 0.005 Ω). The "under load" voltage drop tests I described are much better at identifying poor wiring and connections than any (low current/low voltage) ohmmeter tests. Faulty connections can often measure 0 Ω with a multi-meter but actually have significant resistance under load at high currents like those drawn by a starter motor.

They're fun to play with--I have rather large top-water spinner they like to chase...

Travis, What is the battery voltage, measured at the; 1) battery posts, not cable terminals); and 2) cable terminals (not the battery posts) when cranking or attempting to crank the engine? Also, what is he voltage between the +battery post and the +terminal on the starter while cranking/trying to crank it over? (this tests the voltage drop, an indicator of the resistance of all wiring, solenoid contacts, etc between in battery and starter.. In the last, what is the voltage between the − battery post and starter body? (this tests the voltage drop in the ground circuit). These four simple tests (preferably conducted when the engine does mot want to crank) will assess the condition of the battery terminals, all positive wiring and controls of the starter circuit, and all of the return (ground) path. Post what you observe and we can begin to identify (or rule out) any and all potential electrical issues. -cliff-

Is it as inaccurate as the one I got with my Outfitter 400--which among other things placed the spark plug under the seat (it's not, it's under the cargo bed); and the air filter under the bed (It's not, it's under the seat). Apparently on earlier 400s the cylinder slanted forward, on my 2020 it slants rearward--don't know when that was changed but the OM has yet to catch up with it. The manual supplied with the vehicle also referenced using the choke when starting the engine; it even had an illustration of the nonexistent "choke"--my 2020 is EFI, no choke--it made no mention of the steering column mounted ignition switch/steering lock or horn, light switch/turn signals. The "jump starting" instructions began with "Opening the hood" to access the battery--the battery is under the seat... I complained to Coleman and they sent me an "updated"manual which corrected the switch issues but continues to misplace the spark plug ans air filter; and still says "open he hood" to access the battery. Tire pressures provided in the manual(10/10 F/R) are in conflict with the "warning" sticker on the vehicle (12/14 F/R). The maintenance schedule charts have miles and km change interval labels reversed--I sent them a 30-point correction list 6 weeks ago, have received no response. Other than that...