cliffyk

View File 2005-2012 Kawasaki Mule 610/600 Service Manual Found this floating about the web today--it's a nice manual... 2005-2012 Kawasaki Mule 610/600 Service Manual Submitter cliffyk Submitted 04/12/2021 Category Kawasaki  

Same thing, though the Kohler might have two coils if it's a V-twin (jut one if it's a "boxer"). Using that same tester on the Mule may reveal something. The resistance tests shown in the manual should be pretty positive. $43 (w/ free shipping) on eBay for a new genuine Kawasaki part.--p/n 21171-7035 is what you want: Interesting little beasts, these earlty mules--only 400 cc, not much HP (10.5 @2400)--but GOBS of torque at low rpm (22 lb·ft @ that same 2400 rpm!!!). Peak torque on my 24.4 HP (@ 7500 rpm) Hisun 400 is only 17.1 lb·ft☹️--also @ 7500 rpm, which in reality is an engine speed the CVT will never allow (except maybe when "pedal-to-metal" on an open road somewhere). I suspect real Hp that actually makes it to te ground is more like 15-18. Rubberband CVT efficiency is just 40 to 80% or so depending on a number of factors (drive ratio, belt stiffness, etc.) In general hihger "gears" (numerically lower input--> output ratios) are the least efficient. Here are some interesting charts from a great study "The analysis of an influence of rubber V-belt physical properties on CVT efficiency" by A Kot W Grzegożek and W Szczypiński-Sala of the Cracow University of Technology: (belt "A" is the most flexible tested, belt "C" the least)

Unless someone decides to push hard on her "naturalborn" citizenship status (both parents were not citizens)--in witch case (not a typo) Pelosi becomes President--and I would not want to be in between her and her potential Presidency...

Leaving the plug heat range aside--your 2007 Mule 610 (be it a model KAF400A7F, KAF400B7F or KAF400C7F) uses a magneto type ignition system in which the power to fire the plug is derived electromechanically by a magnet on the alternator rotor rapidly rotating past a stationary single coil ignition coil--a long winded way of saying it is independent of the vehicle's battery power. You could remove the battery and if you could turn the motor over fast enough (likely just 100 to 200 rpm) it would make a spark. here are those components: Here's a link to the ignition system description and test procedures from the service manual--this will let you adjust and test the magneto to determine the underlying problem. -cliff-

The Forum's hosting service had a fire and was down from 15:00 hours on April 4--but they were back by 09:00 on the 8th--see my post here...

I just reread your original posting where you "spoke" of "...a way to disconnect the "over 10mph gas starving" safety sensor. " The "black box" that performs the limitation is located quite visibly under the hood, on an upper frame crossmember, next to the hydraulic bake fluid reservoir-- it if wired as shown below: Note that it receives - (ground) active input signals from both the belt and reverse gear switches--that is because the 10 mph limiter function is also active when in reverse gear (this a only obliquely mentioned in the owners manual) . Cutting either wire (pin 4 [green/blue - reverse] or pin 5 [black/white - seat belt]) will disable that function.

The various Q-Link Frontrunner models are just re-branded Hisun "HS" models, like all Hisun products they are pretty good. Some of their early (pre-2005 or so) stuff was wanting, but the later (2016+) products are pretty damned good at their price point... "yap, yap. yap" anecdotal stories of "Chinese crap", parts quality and availability are generally meaningless to me. Years back I had a two-month old $101,000 1998 Mercedes SL500 that spent a month in the shop waiting for a convertible top controller to come from Germany--though, after a bunch of bitching, cussing and yelling the dealer did make my payment for that month... Resellers like Q-Link usually buy partially assembled products from manufacturers at a pretty slim discount (typically just 20 to 25% off MSRP) and then to be competitive resell at some lesser discount. This does not leave them much room for profit, let alone parts inventory or sterling customer support--after a few years of dwindling resources even whatever crappy customer support they had offered goes away--that's why they don't last long...

Cool... The shift drum in the tranny has detents and a spring-loaded ball that "snap" it into the selected gear--loosening and re-tightening the linkage in neutral allows it to re-align itself with the drum's neutral position.

The 400 does have a wet clutch, but a completely different 1-speed + reverse transmission.

Your Cadet Challenger 500 is a re-branded Hisun HS500--also sold as the Coleman UT500 and Outfitter 500--what model year is it? There is a Service manual dated September, 2009 available in the Forum's download section (click here). It has a section with detailed instructions for adjusting shifter (curiously titled "The Reverse Mechanism"), see page 265... -cliff-

I would first suspect the parking brake pedal position sensor--it signals the ECU to "beep" if any gear other than neutral is selected with the p-brake engaged...

Great to hear it worked out! -cliff-

Rode 5 miles or so on the beach today, it tracks better in the deep soft sand ruts, but the back-end still wants to squirm about in the worst of it. No traction issues, it just likes to shake it's booty a bit... I wanted to add that while re-torquing the spacers I found the OEM "acorn" style lug nuts were very nearly "bottoming out" on the spacer studs--so I cut 1/4" off eaxh. I started with a SawzAll and a Starrett bi-metal 18 pt. blade--but only got about 1.3rd way through one stud before the blade was history (I.e. these studs are HARD alloy steel)--finished them up with a 4-1/2" right-anglegrinder and cut-off wheel. I was surprised they were that hard...

I think the connector you refer to is the taillight plug--does it look like this? The harness from the lights plugs into it. The rubber hose is a "breather" tube for the rear axle gearbox. Re: the seat belt interlock, I have devised a "thingy" that plugs into the seat belt socket and tricks the computer into believing the seat belt is connected: I'll send you a PM with my address, send me a SASE and I mail a couple out to you. I have a suicide knob--wouldn't be without it: -cliff-

That is correct--it's nice to be in direct control...

I have been using DirectNIC hosting for my site (www.paladinmicro.com) for over 20 years without a hitch. They were in New Orleans during Katrina and were humping 55 gallon druns of diesel up 9 flights of stairs to keep their generators running--not down for even a millisecond--good guys. I haven't done much with my site since I retried in late 2015 but I get my email service from them and use it for file hoisting.

On Sunday the 4th @ 3:00 pm or so their hosting service lost power and a generator caught fire triggering sprinklers. (Read more here...) Poor design, "sprinklers" and "data center" do not belong in the same sentence. They did get it back up in pretty good time all things considered...

Unfortunately due to the rather crude shifting mechanisms in these things (sliding cogged collars) stiff shifting when cold is normal--'cold" being not hot, not cold as in "Brrrr". My Hs400 does it going into reverse on each day's first ride regardless of how I adjust the linkage. You can try synthetic oil--it might help. I'm going to use 5W40 synthetic at my next change. -cliff-

You never know how much you'll miss something 'til it's gone... Advise your hosting service to install a dry (argon/halon) fire suppression system. 99.44% of the time with wet systems the water does more damage than the fire--this is true in almost every industry, but more so in server rooms. -cliff-

Are you referring to buttons on the instrument cluster?

Could be shift linkage adjustment, or a problem with the shift drum/forks/cogs in the transmission. The idle speeed is controlled by the engine managemeny computer--it should be 1400-1500 rpm. What idle speed are you seeing? How many miles/hours on the beast? Does letting the engine warm just a bit (30-60 seconds) help? What grade of engine oil are you running (synthetic or conventional--the ttansmission is in the engine crankcase, lubricated by engine oil)? When was it last changed? Sorry for all the questions...

Cool...

Not familiar with the "MODE/SET" functions on your beast--what exactly are they intended to do?

Rode 10-12 miles today (off road, and straddling the right-of-way on a "main drag'"), a very different ride--it appears the +8% or so increase in the rear swing arms' effective length due to the spacers has softened the ride quite a bit ( in a positive direction). I had not expected such a dramatic and noticeable change--haven't been on the beach yet, hope that's better too...