cliffyk

100% FWIW, I found this on a Chinese Manufacturers Parts site--it claimed to be for the 2019+ Odes DominatorX. Looks to have three possible adjustments--one at the caliper end (left), one at he sheath clamping point (middle), and one at what I believe is the handle end (right). -cliff-

An automatic transmission vehicle without an effective parking brake is dangerous as Hell. Tell them the next call will be from your neighbour's lawyer when it rolls down your driveway and kills his 4-year-old...

BE sure to play up your "safety" concerns when you call. that word can often get their attention...

Typically with the single rotor on the axle pinion shaft arrangement there is some provision in the p-brake cable for adjusting the anchor point or length of the cable sheath. On my Hisun 400 with a foot operated parking brake there is an adjustable junction in the cable sheath that allows it's length to be adjusted (longer outer cable = less free play): This is the procedure for the Hisun based MSU800--if we get lucky your Odes based vehicle will be similar: -cliff-

The assemblers (Coleman, Massimo, Bennche, Odes, et al ) of these vehicles change their manufacturing sources more often than most of us change socks--also, for them "assemble" generally means putting on their brand's stickers. Massimo re-sources their models often and has in recent years used at least six manufacturers (per EPA "can't hide" data¹--it's interesting stuff) some have produced only one or two models, others have produced numerous models, changing over the years--predominately Hisun, Linhai and Odes: Chongqing Rato Technology Co., Ltd. [2017-2019] (RATO Carts also branded as Massimo Mini-ATVs); Chongqing Huansong Science and Technology Industrial Co.,Ltd. [2015-2018] (Hisun also branded as: Coleman, Massimo, Bennche) Shandong Liangzi Power Co., Ltd. [2018-2021] (Odes also branded as: Massimo , Lil' Pickup, U-Storm) -- the latter two seem to no longer be with us; Taizhou Nebula Power Co., Ltd. [2017-2020] (REO Carts also branded as: Massimo); Jiangsu Foma High-Tech Power Machinery Co., Ltd. [2020-2021] (branded as: Massimo Jiangsu Linhai Power Machinery Group Co., Ltd. [2017-2021] (Linhai also branded as: Massimo); These last two are "joined at the hip"--it seems "High-Tech Power" is a new subsidiary (or just a marketing arm) of the "Power Machinery" group. Hisun is the Chongqing Huansong Science and Technology Industrial Co.,Ltd. house brand -- Odes is Shandong's house brand: Linhai is of course Linhai. Your MSU800 was made by Shandong according to the EPA's 2021 database (I believe it is the same vehicle as the Odes Dominator X2-ST -- they look the same): Do you know if the parking brake (they stopped being "emergency brakes" in 1947) a single rotor on the rear axle input shaft, or mechanically implemented at each rear wheel? And to what adjustment do you refer, handle position or pad clearance at the caliper? They are of course related, but often adjusted separately. -cliff- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ¹ - I need to get their spreadsheet into a database so I can make a "Who Makes What?" listing by model name.

Welcome, Looks great! Don't let it sit for months between use--worst thing you can do to any machine...

The CKP is a magnetic pickup coil mounted alongside the alternator stator--it reads the interrupted tooth pattern on the rotor's rim to generate a 5 V square wave signal for the ECU: The missing tooth creates a missing pulse to indicate Top-Dead-Center (TDC).To properly test it you need an oscilloscope to monitor the output waveform, but check its connector (a smallish 4-termial plug w/only two wires (black and blue) that should be close to the alternator output connector (a largish round connector w/ three wires).

It does indirectly, this (below) is from the EPA website--it's from their certification data worksheet: It shows the engine was made by: Chongqing Huansong Science and Technology Industrial Co., Ltd. -- I.e. Hisun I'll see what I can find for a valid wiring diagram... -cliff-

View File Hisun HS400 Wiring Diagram Here is a REALLY great, high quality HS400 rev 5 wiring diagram I got from Hisun--I knew they had to have decent documents somewhere. Submitter cliffyk Submitted 03/24/2021 Category Hisun  

As the title suggests, today marks 120 days and 520 miles since I bought my 2020 UT400 from Tractor Supply. I like it, here;s a synopsis of my experience so far: Delivery on 10/29/2020 was uneventful, BUT my first ride was interrupted by the damned undocumented seat belt safety "feature", the staff at TS knew nothing about it, but somewhat accidentally I found the driver's belt was wired and "bugged"--problem #1 solved;; Next I had to screw around with the State of Florida to get it registered and titled--that took a month and my trailering it 150 miles round trip to have it "inspected' and documented as a 'low speed vehicle'"; Got it titled on 11/25/2020; At 13-15 miles or so it decided it did not like shifting into reverse--the shift cable adjustment is finicky, with examination and trial and error I developed an adjustment procedure around the neutral position; At 15 hours I changed the fluids as recommended; Next, nothing major for the next 400 miles when I changed the front and rear gearbox juice just to make me happy; Today I drove it to the beach (2.5 miles East, including 1.2 miles at 45+ mph (50 on the "Clock", 45 on the GPS)--the dog and I had a great time. This was the 4th or5th time I've had it "on the road" at 40+--it seems to like or at least tolerate it. Beach, dunes, deep sand no problems. 26 mpg overall since new--not too bad. It's a well engineered and built machine however Coleman and Hisun are shooting themselves in the foot with their crappy documentation--I've contacted both but they don't seem to care. I like it!!!

Again you are very welcome--I believe to my core we are here (in the grandest sense) to help one another--if not, then what's the point?

They are indeed "dampers" intended to absorb (dampen) shock loading of the steering gear to prevent damage. The fellows that engineered it probably knew what they were doing, there is likely a service spec somewhere defining a range of acceptable movement. The rubber can become compressed in use, allowing too much motion. If in doubt replace it, I see it's $25.71 from Kawasaki. You can test the steering wheel free play to indirectly determine the damper's condition (after ruling out other potential causes of too much play): from the 2004 shop manual:

Apparently at some time it was the speed sensor--I found this part on AliExpress (who I wouldn't buy from if they were the last vendor on earth): However on newer models like my 2020 and apparently the OP's 2012 the active speed sensor is on the rear reducer and there's that crappy plastic cover on the crankcase. I think on the 2012 the reducer mounts with the "flat" side on the right and the sensor is on the left--don't know when or why it was "flipped", but it seems to coincide with the engine being changed to the rear slanting cylinder. a 2020 model from Coleman's site: yup--an undated, I think pre-2018 HS400: I'd pull the plug out, make sure it's intact, clean it well and put it back together with a good dose of Permatex's Ultra-Grey gasket maker (best I've ever used--the crankcae on my 2003 Suzi Burgman 400 was reassembled with that 5 years and 26k miles ago) --if it is cracked use some of JB Weld' high temp stuff to fix it:

You are quite welcome--let out a yell if you have any questions, or just want to bounce around some ideas. I don't believe the O₂ sensor issue would prevent the engine from starting. Try unplugging it, if it's heater is drawing too much power and dragging that circuit down disconnecting it "might" allow the engine to start--worth a try, if it starts you know which part to buy... -cliff-

I agree, I tore some filters apart in a Bob is the oil Guy project back in 2000; the Frams had cardboard end plates, crappy valves and were generally built like crap: cardboard end plate lousy bypass (this is a "Tough Guard" BTW : overall crap construction: in contrast this is a Purolator Pure one: Advance Auto house brand (made by Purolator)

Watch for the thread configuration--some have threads that are 'outies" instead of "innies" like the OEM filter. On those with the projecting thread the thread can bottom out on the filter flange central tube collar or lock nut before the seal is seated tightly. Many Fram filters are made that way leading to the classic "I bought an oil filter at Auto-Pats 'R Us from their cross reference list and it leaks" threads. I have had this happen on bikes. One particularly offensive, in this regard, Fram filter (the projecting thread is almost flush with the gasket): If you tried to mount that filter on a flange like this ↓↓↓ there would be a problem--the thread will bottom out on the lock nut before it's sealed--been therre and done it.

I bought this one from Amazon $10 with free shipping for Prime¹ members (I have seen some for $8 but w/o free shipping)---it is identical to the OEM filter I took off. Tractor supply actually does have one, but they don't know it 'cause it's labeled as being for a Cub Cadet lawn tractor or something. I think it's $11 or $12 though. No sensible, cost-conscious manufacturer (which the Asians certainly are) would develop and commission a proprietary oil filter when they can just grab one off a shelf somewhere--only Apple would do something like that--Oh, wait a minute I said "cost-conscious"...Apple doesn't give a crap about cost because their customers will pay whatever they ask. As far as I can tell most Asian made ATVs and UTVs use this same filter. FWIW, my Ariens 20 HP tractor with a B&S Instek motor uses a variant of the same filter (same base, but 3/8" or so shorter). Here are the dimensions of the OEM filter: Harbor Freight sells vacuum pumps, but not vacuum pump oil... ----------------------------------------------------------------- ¹ - Neat thing about Prime is that if you get the item and it sucks, or you just don't like it, you can just send it back--w/ free shipping; and usually a full refund within 3-4 hours of UPS logging in the package.

At the risk of sounding facetious, Find another mechanic!

Do you know if it was made by Hisun? I'm trying to find a valid wiring diagram to help out... There should be an EPA certification sticker someplace on the machine (typically under the "hood") that indicates who actually made it. THis is that sticker from my 2020 "Coleman" UT400 (showing it to be a "Hisun" brand actually made by the Vietnam New Century Industrial Company:

It in a way it was "vapour lock"; I didn't think modern vehicles did that. Curious as to what "DNR" might be? When you say that to someone my age it means "Do Not Resuscitate" (I know,I have one)...

That makes it a bit better I guess, there aren't actually "7 deadly" downsides--I missed one...

What a wonderful service manual--I need to send it to Hisun and Coleman so they can see what one is supposed to look like! In reviewing the wiring diagrams I see that he injectors, Lambda (O₂) sensor and ignition coils share a common power feed from terminal C6 on the main harness (this is good news as it links directly to the DTCs): On the wiring harness it looks like this--with SP1 (SP=splice???) being a common connection point: They also provide this splendid illustration of where all this stuff is located (though the O₂ sensor does not seem to be shown) Before hauling it 100 miles check that main harness connector, and the connectors at he injectors and coils to make certain they're not corroded or otherwise fouled. Check all ground connections as well--check the O₂ senor connector as well as it is quite possibly located is a place that can collect all sorts of crap. Also, the usual suspects, battery connections, voltage While cranking [at the terminals, not he battery posts], , etc. It may be coincidence that all three reported "low voltage" at the same time but I'd look for a common wiring problem. -cliff-

Sounds like the P.O. was a textbook example of what we used to call "Fast & Furious Magazine Mechanics"(FnFMM)--more money than engineering, or even common, sense. Bigger wheels an d tires do nothing but: Reduce power to the ground due to their larger diameter; Reduce braking power due to 1); Reduce acceleration due to 1) and increased weight = increased rotational inertia; Increase wear of drive train components (CV-joints, U-joints, transmission and final drive gears and bearing, etc) due to 3);. Worsen "ride" quality due to increased unsprung weight; Overload suspension components (spring struts, A-arms, ball joints, tie-rod ends, steering gear, etc.) due to increased mass/altered geometry; Mess up the speedometer and odometer¹ by making them "read" slow; Huh, seven sins--I really did not set out to do that. But they "look cool" and will make your fellow FnFMMs envious--all while making your wallet lighter, We have already seen (literally) what a "lift kit" can accomplish so I won;t get into that... Contrary to what the average FnFMM thinks, the emgineers that design these things do generally know what the are doing,,, ---------------------------------------------------------------------- ¹ - the odometer thing mat be "good" if you are planning on screwing over a buyer down the road (no pun intended). Let's suppose you put 27" tires on a vehicle designed for 25" tires--that's an 8% increase in circumference. So, the 5,000 miles you put on the vehicle will be recorded as only 4630 miles.

How old is it, how many hours/miles? Have the fluids been changed on schedule? I have not been able to locate much info about it--is the transmission in the crankcase, lubricated by engine oil, or separate/