cliffyk

Cool... Pretty much as I expected it to look. That neutral switch could be a culprit too--a simple test would be to jump or connect that light green wire at the neutral switch to ground. That will bypass the switch ruling it out as a bad guy (or proving it to be the bad guy)...

I think we need to establish a taxonomy for this discussion--specifically re: the often misused term "solenoid". Classically a solenoid is an electromagnetic device in which current flowing through a coil attracts an iron armature to create motion--not specifically an electrical switching relay, though all such devices are technically solenoids. Solenoids do mechanical work often without switching contacts. Remote door and trunk locks are activated by solenoids typically with no switching function. Umfortunately in automotive terminology it has come to be the term for the high current relay that switches power to an engine's electrical starting motor--with no other function. However in the instance of the 2001 Mule which has a somewhat "old school" (for a motorcycle type engine) pre-engagement drive starter the solenoid has two functions: 1) to mechanically position the starter's pinion gear into mesh with the engine's flywheel; and 2) to close electrical contacts to supply power to the starter's armature. Here's what that puppy looks like: The big round thingy on top of the starter motor is this starter's solenoid. Battery power is permanently (I.e. not switched) supplied directly to the topmost large terminal--the bottom-most terminal is connected (through brushes) to the armature. The small 1/4" male spade connector is where power is applied to activate the solenoid so that it will push the pinion gear into engagement with the flywheel, and close the main electrical contacts connectin the top and bottom terminals to power the starter motor. Typically is this configuration there is another somewhat high capacity relay that switches power to the starter's solenoid. these other relays are also often called "starter solenoids" which can and often does lead to confusion in trouble-shooting discussions. I do not have a 2001 Mule schematic at hand, however I suspect it might included such a high capacity relay for supplying +12 V to the starter's solenoid. In our discussions we need to make sure we differentiate the two--perhaps "starter relay" and "starter solenoid". Further confusion comes about because with the contemporary constant mesh starters there is typically a remote mounted high current relay often also called (sometimes even in factory parts lists) the starter solenoid where technically it is just a high current relay. Starter mounted solenoids can of course bed replaced ad hoc, but typically they are an included component of a new stater.

AFAIK the "hard coat" is part of a manufacturing process, not some "after-the-fact' application--could be wrong about this though...

Cool... Please let us know how it goes...

Big Brother is always watching out for us! Here's what it actually looks like, "unplugged"--quite unobtrusive when "plugged in", just the red tab shows : I am doing well, thank you for asking... The good part is I have an official document stating I cannot wear a seat belt.

My understanding from scouring parts lists for my 400 is that the base engines (valve timing, lift, etc.) on the carb vs. EFI engines is the same--it's only the fuel system and controls that differ. I would expect the 700 to be the same. I.E. your carburettor, fuel tank, etc. should work on an "EFI" engine...

It will not go over 10 mph unless the driver's seat belt is buckled. Or the "safety" interlock defeated in some manner. Removing the limiter module does not work. You can buckle it behind your back but that's a bit uncomfortable. You'd think they would mention this in the manual--wouldn't you? I 3D printed some tabs that mimic the seat belt male connector.to trick the foolish thing It is 45 mm x 20 mm x 3 mm, just a clone of the seat belt connector. I have made these for my other vehicle's as well. I had open heart surgery a couple years ago and cannot wear a shoulder belt. If you send me a SASE I can mail one to you--I will send you a PM with my address. The normal level of the coolant t reservoir is quite low in the tank--you have to peek in around the framework to see it. The black tubes are exhaust outlets for the generator and CVT air-cooling. My gas gauge works fine, I have seen reviews on he Tractor Supply web site reporting it did not. -cliff-

5288 miles in 628 hours is just 8.4 mph average--so it appears it wasn't beat up too hard. I'm right around 14.5 mph average in 37 hours on my Coleman Outfitter 400--there's a lot of flat open land here--I can hit 40 on the power lines down the road from my house.

Here's a new one from MotorCycle Doctor on eBay. ($3855 w/shipping ain't cheap, but they have a solid reputation).--it's pretty...

^^^Can't beat that!!!

I am not entirely certain what is meant by "all terrain' tires. To me"all terrain" means tires that will get me anywhere I care to go--or are you referring to tire industry "buzzword" "all terrain" tires (i.e. DOT rated pretend off-road tires)? The actual all-terrain Wanda 25x???x12 tires that came on my Outfitter 400 do just that, and are commonly available...

+++100 or so on this--I have never used it, but a very good friend who bought a retired CHP 900 Kawasaki did--with EXCELLENT results--look's like new.--10 years with the CHP is NOT light duty...

An engine is not going to be cheap; probably $3000 to $3500 unless you get real lucky--that's close to what an entire used rig might cost if you find a motivated seller that's not a divorced airline stewardess who wants to sell it via eBay Motors for a pile of Walmart gift cards ( I know why her husband divorced her). There are a few outfits on the web that rebuild ATV/UTV engines--I wonder what the special tools cost? How is the compression? I have read that bleeding the coolant systems on some of these engines can be a bear--have you thought of borrowing from the AC industry and pulling a vacuum on it via the bleed plug? I did that years ago on a 1988 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 that did not want to cooperate. HF has a $90 2.5 CFM vacuum pump that works well, I've had mine for 7 or 8 years.--in fact on 12/31/2017 (Yes, New Year's Eve¹) we had our home AC replaced, the techs that did it had two vacuum pumps, neither would work. I asked if they'd like to use mine and after their initial shock it dd the job quite well. --------------------------------------------------- ¹ - We got a heck of a deal on the system as it was the last day they could sell it due to it's SEER rating not meeting standards going into effect on 1/1/2018.

Joe, have you personally experienced this? I've heard the story over and over again for years now, but have never had the problem, nor known ay one who has. However I do not generally use synthetic oil in my bikes--as I said earlier I change it rather often (1000-1200 miles usually) to keep it as clean as possible for the ball bearings.

Those are typical of the stuff the "lift kit" people churn out--as I stated earlier engineering is not something in which they excel. .

I was out riding today and did some experimentation re: engine braking. if I release the throttle, when in gear and at speed, it appears that as long as the vehicle is moving faster than 10 mph or so the ECU will hold engine speed above idle keeping the centrifugal clutch engaged and thus providing compression braking. I knew there was an element of engine braking provided however I had not previously realized the ECUs role in providing it.

Does it currently run? If so what problems does it exhibit indicating a new engine is in order?

I want to add that because the transmission an d output shaft are lubricated by engine oil (like most motorcycles) there is no such thing as changing the engine oil too often. Ball-bearings like clean oil. i change the engine oil on my bikes twice as often as "recommended" and the filter every other change¹--cheap insurance... --------------------------------------------------------------- ¹- Perhaps counter-intuitive, and not at all what those who sell oil filters want you to hear--a slightly used oil filter actually filters better than a new one. As it "clogs" it becomes better at filtering out particulate matter--there is of course a time at which it clogs to the point of not providing sufficient volumetric flow. But any normal spin-on filter is easily good for two "half-the-recommened-cycle" change.. Been doing this for 40+ years with never an oil related failure.. My '89 MIata had 385k miles(200k supercharged) on it when i sold it--the buyer and his son drove it from Tampa to Deal's Gap for a two-week spree the very next day...

That is a different beast with a stand-alone transmission; bearing no relation to the Hisun 400 on which both the centrifugal clutch, transmission, and longitudinal middle (output) shaft are in the crankcase, lubricated as one would expect by engine oil. The front differential and rear reducer are individually lubricated by gear oil in their respective housings.

I am surprised the starter uses an automotive style solenoid operated pre-engagement type drive. Most modern bikes and such have constant mesh starter drives with one-way clutches somewhere between the starter and the crankshaft--the starter can turn the engine but the engine cannot turn the starter. Nonetheless, from what you describe it's obvious there is some connection/component in the starter switching circuit that is not delivering sufficient power to pull in the starter solenoid and engage the drive pinion or electrical contacts to power the motor--that's progress. Now completely disassemble the starter switching circuity wiring, clean all connections, and examine all components and wiring. If the starter itself is not the problem than it has to be a problem in either the high current feed to the starter or the control circuit. It's a "ground up" restoration of the starter wiring...

Actually you can, the real differences between GL-4 and GL-5 are nearly negligible. GL-5 is claimed to handle shock loading better than GL-4; and be slightly more "slippery" making the EPA happy.. If I had an axle with dirty oil that really needed to be changed, and had nothing but a bottle of GL-4 on the shelf, I use it and not lose a moment's sleep...

Welcome aboard! I also have a Coleman 400--got it last October, 505 miles on it as of earlier today. I like it...

I just changed the gear oils in my 2020 Outfitter 400 a couple days ago--used Supertech (Walmart's house brand) 75W-90 GL-5 gear oil, which is made by Valvoline--Its what i used it in my 2003 515 HP 2003 Mustan g Cobra, thatr's why there was a nearly full bottle on the shelf in the barn..--use it in my 2009 Honda Silver Wing too. Heck, I'd use it in anything without hesitation...

In reviewing what I wrote earlier re: full dissaasembly of everything, it occurred to me that i am normally a "don't fix it if it ain't broke" guy. However given the age of your vehicle and the persistent nature of your problem--I believe assuming it is all broken and proactively "fixing" it all is called for...

That looks great! 40 A should be entirely sufficient--proabably fed by a 30 A fuse max anyway.