Cougsfan

My dealer gave me an electronic version of the service manual and I have sent it to Kingfish. I will see if it will upload here for others to use. I'm not sure if there is a more appropriate way to do this, let me know if there is.. 2015-2017 Service Manual - Sector E1.pdf

Everything you are saying doesn't make total sense. If your battery level indicator shows full charge then the batteries probably aren't dead, you have some other issue. A simple one that can happen is the emergency brake switch breaks (they are very prone to breaking. I have broken two.) and you are trying to drive it with the emergency brake on, or possibly the emergency brake is misadjusted or not fully released and dragging. Normally the motor won't run if the emergency brake light is showing. But if the switch is broken the motor can't tell that the brake is on. The electric motor has more than enough grunt to overpower the brake and drive the unit so well you may not know that the emergency brake is engaged, but it overloads the motor and can show a 45C3 error. Not saying that's it but it's worth checking. I would also suggest that you check the voltage yourself across all of the batteries with a multimeter. I think you connect from the positive pole on the first battery to the negative pole on the last battery. If I remember right the first battery is the rear row, center left and the last one is on the rear row, center right. Check it when it is fully charged versus when it is "dead". I am not totally sure but I would guess there should be about a 5 volt difference between the two readings if the batteries are truly dead. At full charge it should be above 48 volts. Your charger has to be set to matched to your particular style of battery. If it set to the wrong battery type it may undercharge or overcharge the batteries. Hopefully your dealer understands this. From what you have said so far I am not impressed with your dealer. Sometimes an independent golf cart shop may be a better choice for help. The technology of golf carts is fairly identical to the E1. I realize they may not cover warranty items, but they might be good people talk to if your dealer is incompetent. If you find that your dealer is incompetent or unresponsive go a step higher to the Aussie Hisun distributor for help. Hope this helps

Ok, Lets start with the obvious. Do you really have power? You may have tripped a CB or GFI. Plug an electrical device (drill motor, etc) into the cord and see if it works.

I just replaced the OEM Discovery batteries in my 2017 E1 with Trojan T-105's. The dealer reprogrammed the charger for these batteries. I use the E1 almost constantly around my farm, but seldom put more than a a few miles a day on the rig. As I don't need long range, it was recommended I stay with lead acid batteries as the cost became a significant factor. My question is it is better for the batteries to charge my E1 every night or to run it a week or so and take the charge down a ways before recharging.

That sucks to know a dealer is that unsupportive. They are in an ICE frame of mind. I would consider your problem to be part of the power train on an EV. I'd try to get a hold of Hisun directly and seek their help. It could be the rocker switch. It should be easy to check out with a ohmmeter. It wouldn't seem that a charger fuse would affect the rocker switch, but you never know.

My 2017 E1 has the original batteries. They have a lot of hours on them. Now that winter is upon us they have started giving the 4C53 error on up hills not too long after charging. I am suspecting I need new batteries and am not disappointed of the life this set of Discovery batteries gave me. I may see if they will make it through the summer. I am not at all dissatisfied with my E1, Next to zero maintenance, never have to worry about filling it with gas, changing the oil, or figuring out why the engine doesn't run right. It has never left me stranded except when I high centered it in a snow bank with nothing around to attach the winch to pull myself out, It is especially nice in the winter when you never worry about it not starting. Just get in it and go, any time, any where. It is true it isn't very fast, but I am not in a hurry. The range is probably nowhere near advertised, but I just use mine around the farm and seldom do more than 10 or 15 miles per day. It is also true that it has more torque than any gas unit of the same class, which comes in handy at times. The E1 gets used more frequently than any vehicle I own. I will probably replace the batteries with lead acid golf cart batteries as I am not worried about range, but am worried about the price of upscale, higher performance batteries.

Recently my E1 has some sort of failure with the parking brake light system. The light no longer comes on when the parking brake is engaged. It used to be that the motor wouldn't run if the parking brake was engaged at all. Now it will. The problem with that is that in low range the e-drive has more than enough torque to propel the vehicle despite the parking brake being on. I first noticed the problem when I smelled the parking brake overheating while driving. The bulb on the parking brake light is good because it comes on when I first turn the key on. I have been unable to locate the switch that activates the parking brake light. I called the dealer. He would not give advice over the phone and insisted I bring it in. They are too far away and it would likely tie up a couple of my days to do that. I adjusted the park brake as Gorj showed. So it holds stronger now, but unless you really press hard when you set it, low range will still override the parking brake. Anyone know where the parking brake light switch is?

I agree the parking brake is not all that great of design. Mine holds fine on a very steep slope, but doesn't always fully release. I frequently leave mine setting for long periods of time with the parking brake on and have never noticed any ill effects from doing that.

I have a 2017 Hisun Sector e. It is the most frequently used vehicle (including cars) on our property. I love the fact it is relatively maintenance free, and you can just get in it and go.... any time, any weather. Looking at your picture I can see they haven't changed much in the last 4 years (tires and decals looks to be it). I don't think I would like my rig for going exploring out in the woods because of it's limited range, but it is perfect for around home. My batteries are getting worn and don't provide the miles that they used too, but I plug it in every night and it will still easily last a full day for whatever I may choose to do. I only have a couple of minor complaints; 1) the long delay between turning on the key and the time you can put it in forward or reverse to go. If you put it in forward or reverse too soon it just sets there until you put it in neutral for several seconds the go into forward or reverse. Whenever someone new drives it for the first time they can't make it go because of this quirk. No one will ever steal it because of this 😊 2) the emergency brake doesn't always release fully and I sometimes have to pull it up a little further with my toe before it will go. Hopefully they have corrected those minor issues on the new ones

So what exactly will this "Delta-Q" software do for you?

My dealer gave me a complete and thorough service manual loaded on a thumb drive with the purchase of my E1. A dealer shouldn't have a problem with sharing one with you. As I would expect, there isn't a section on suspension squeaks. The unit is quite quiet. If the rig made any engine noise, you probably wouldn't even notice those squeaks. If you have greased all the fittings I would spray down where the shock springs rub against the shock body with silicone spray. My guess is that is where the noise might be coming from..

That is absurd you had to go through all that hassle , Cliff I bought my Hisun used so who ever owned it before never thought to provide the adapter. Sounds like it may not have worked anyhow. So I will keep on my list of things to make, and will do it as soon as I get done with the dozen or so items of higher priority for me to make.

I dunno. It is kind of weird they would put on an odd non-standard receiver size like that. I am thinking of fabricating one but have never gotten around to buying the material (if I can find it) to do that.

I have looked all over Amazon. Didn't see a single 1-1/2" receiver. Do you have a link?

I was going to buy a trailer hitch set up to go into my Hisun E1's receiver. All I can find for sale are hitches with 1-1/4" and/or 2" square shafts. The hole on the receiver on my E1 measures roughly 1-5/8" square. I'm guessing it takes a 1-1/2" hitch. Where on earth do you get a hitch that size?

The advice you are giving, Kenfain, is pretty much the same as what I have got as I called various people in the know to gain an education on batteries. I have also found that you can buy Lead-acid batteries for considerably less than half the cost as the Discover batteries. You can find various Lead-acid batteries have the same ratings, size and pole configuration as the Discover battery and will drop right in. The downside is that Lead acid batteries require maintenance (keeping them filled with water and keeping them clean) where as the Discover dry cell batteries are fairly care free. The life of each type is probably similar. The distance per charge is comparable. Seems like extra maintenance associated with lead-acid replacements would make sense considering the cost of the superior, but extremely expensive dry cell batteries. There are other type of batteries available too (AGM, lithium, gel batteries,) but all are more expensive than lead acid, and you may have trouble finding a direct replacement to fit the E1.. If recycling batteries are a consideration, Lead acid batteries are usually recycled whereas dry cells are not. One of the things I wondered about is what happen if you happen to roll your E1. Might that spill sulfuric acid all over the UTV occupants? I was told these golf cart batteries can be tipped upside down without spilling anything. Common sense dictates replace all the batteries if one goes bad when the battery pack is past half its life, but can replace only one if the batteries are newer. If you change battery type you must change the settings on the E1's charger (takes things to do that that the typical owner doesn't have , most golf cart shops can do it). I have been told by a couple of people that the particular brand of charger used in the E1 is the highest quality charger in the business.

I just looked up the price for a Discover EVGT6A-A-AM battery on the internet. The cheapest I found was $476.95 ea.!! That would mean it would cost $3,800 plus shipping and tax to replace all 8! There has to be more affordable options!

I too am anything but an expert on this subject (seems like there aren't many people who are🙂). Thanks for the link to the battery. A little history on my E1. It is a 2016 model that I bought used from a dealer about a month ago. The rig had right at 100 hrs on it total and was stored inside, and looked like new. The price was right, and it seemed it might fit my need of getting around my 46 acres perfectly (and it does). However, the range is very limited (like 15-20 miles). Actually I can live with that in my way of usage, but do intend on checking out the batteries and doing what it takes to make it right, if I knew what was really right. I will check the batteries as I get time. I have watched several Utubes after searching on "Golf cart battery check". They give some good tips on how to load test your individual batteries on a series of batteries. Again, they are mixed in whether you can replace one battery or must replace the lot, Seeming the shops that SELL batteries suggest replacing them all where as ones done by individuals only replace the bad battery. I would think it would be OK to replace one battery, as long as a identical twin of the others. But I don't know. I know of a guy who has a diesel truck with two batteries. It wouldn't start, so he took the batteries out and had them checked at a parts house. One battery checked out OK and the other checked out bad. He bought a new battery and installed it with the old good one, and it still wouldn't start. After a bunch of head scratching, a mechanic told him to replace the second battery too. He did, and the truck started fine. Could be the parts house screwed up the check, or it could be the mechanic was right, I don't know. My dealer (who is primarily a golf cart dealer, and is not nearby) also suggests replacing them all rather than individual ones, and says the batteries they sell (Trojans)are better than the Discover battery . For some reason, I am hesitant to fully trust a salesman, and this particular salesman didn't impress me as being truly knowledgable. Also you get polar opposite suggestions on whether to charge it every night or run the batteries down prior to charging. Would be good to know the correct answer. So I too am hoping we can get some good input on this thread.

This was being discussed as a side topic in another thread. Thought I'd start one specific to the point. The E1 owners and service manuals don't discuss the batteries in detail nearly as much as one would expect. I can't even find an exact spec for the battery to buy as a replacement. What are you guys buying for batteries? Any advice on what to look for? Where do you get them? I have read people saying you should replace them all at the same time if you replace any (gasp!) Are those people anal as well as rich, or is that good advice? I have saw some good Utube videos on how to check batteries on golf carts that should apply to the E1.

The Hisun (and other electric UTV's ) really just use golf cart technology. Lead acids are stone age compared to some of the newer technologies, but the newer technologies haven't made their way into UTV's yet. And the new technologies will all probably be outdated in a couple of years too.

I have an E1 and love it for how I use it. I'd be worried to use it for hunting as the range on a charge is limited. Seems to me the 45 miles per charge is optomistic. When the batteries get low it does have troubles on hills.

I too have the same problem. I just sprayed the linkage down with lubricant and it helps a lot. Still happens occasionally and I just pull up on the pedal with my foot.