Bret4207

Since I last posted I figured out the O2 sensor seemed to be bad, but the decompression system on the camshaft let go and shot pieces out through the cover! Waiting for space in the garage so I can fish all the metal trash out and put in a new cam and parts.

No, 2019 model. Spent most of 2020 in a shop, that's why it has so few hours on it. Coleman is worthless as far as warranty work goes. Might as well just shorten it to Coleman is worthless!

Someone mention unhooking the O2 sensor on my Hisun/Coleman 550 to see if it affected the no start when warm (even slightly warm) condition. Sure enough, once it cleared the crap out of the cylinder it started repeatedly with no issue! So I figured I'd run some dog food out to the LGD's with the sheep. On the way back I, not doing more than 4-5 mph because the stupid retarder still kicks in regardless of the seatbelt being buckeled, I hear "KAZING!!!" and the engine noise changes and I start getting smoke. Turns out a piece of what I think is the decompression system on the top gear on the timing chain let go and punched a hole in the timing cover. I also discovered, as I suspected, the timing chain is loose as a goose with a good 1" of play inside the case. The tensioner doesn't seem to be doing anything at all. I'm not sure where all the pieces ended up, so I'm going to do some exploratory surgery. What a hunk of crap. We're still paying for this thing, it's got only 176 hours on it. Screwed doesn't begin to describe our condition!

Still trying to figure out my Coleman 550 start issues. I was looking at injectors and I see some with the same applications listed (Coleman Hisun 550) that have 2 holes and other have 4. I don't know which I have now, but does anyone know why this variation exists? At times it seems like I'm not getting enough fuel and I wonder if I'm supposed to have a 4 hole and have 2 hole or maybe the 2 hole has larger orifices to equal the same amount of fuel spray, something like that. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

No fuel sprays out the injector while you crank it? When you have the injector off the furl line and turn the key on you should get a whole bunch of fuel flowing. When the injector hitched up, it shouldn't pass any fuel unless you are cranking it over or if it's running, which obviously it can't do without the injector putting fuel in the engine. I had an inline filter on my 550, but the shop that eventually got it running said the pump didn't have enough guts to push fuel through the restriction of the filter. I dunno, they removed it and it ran. I question the quality of both the fuel pump and the hose they use and I want to replace the hose, and maybe the pump, with better quality stuff.

An update- I pulled the box off so I could access stuff. Checked the valves, both appeared to be at the recommended clearance, forget what that was. Then pulled the injector and checked for fuel spray, got it. Then pulled injector off the fuel line and checked the flow, got lotsa gas fast, no idea on fuel pressure though. Checked spark again and with another new plug- good blue spark. I tried giving it a sniff of ether through the injector hole and she fired. did that a couple times and she certainly seemed to want to run. So I put everything back and gave it a try. She spun and spun and suddenly sounded like she wanted to start, so I kept going and it did! I ran it around for 15-20 minutes and got her well warmed up. I still had that thing where it would get to about 5 or 5500 rpm unload and it would die. It would run up to the 6-7K area with no load (in neutral). I was thinking the fuel pump may be weak or the filter on the pump might be clogged a bit. Got looking around and found "The Motorcycle Doctor"s website. There I found the instructions on how to reset the ECU and injection system. That was "Clean the O2 sensor first and then warm it up good, run the engine up to full throttle for 5 seconds and shut it off at full throttle, wait 15 seconds and restart and drive it around at varying speeds and loads" according to the instructions. I did that and after some spitting and sputtering I was able to run down the road in excess of 40 mph at about 6500 rpm, which I haven't been able to do since it was new! I still get the bogging, like it's either triggering the retarder in the seatbelt system or maybe running out of fuel. I still wonder about the fuel pump. I don't the gauge and fittings to check it. At this point I'm further ahead than I have been for some time. I'll update as I work on it.

An update- I pulled the box off so I could access stuff. Checked the valves, both appeared to be at the recommended clearance, forget what that was. Then pulled the injector and checked for fuel spray, got it. Then pulled injector off the fuel line and checked the flow, got lotsa gas fast, no idea on fuel pressure though. Checked spark again and with another new plug- good blue spark. I tried giving it a sniff of ether through the injector hole and she fired. did that a couple times and she certainly seemed to want to run. So I put everything back and gave it a try. She spun and spun and suddenly sounded like she wanted to start, so I kept going and it did! I ran it around for 15-20 minutes and got her well warmed up. I still had that thing where it would get to about 5 or 5500 rpm unload and it would die. It would run up to the 6-7K area with no load (in neutral). I was thinking the fuel pump may be weak or the filter on the pump might be clogged a bit. Got looking around and found "The Motorcycle Doctor"s website. There I found the instructions on how to reset the ECU and injection system. That was "Clean the O2 sensor first and then warm it up good, run the engine up to full throttle for 5 seconds and shut it off at full throttle, wait 15 seconds and restart and drive it around at varying speeds and loads" according to the instructions. I did that and after some spitting and sputtering I was able to run down the road in excess of 40 mph at about 6500 rpm, which I haven't been able to do since it was new! I still get the bogging, like it's either triggering the retarder in the seatbelt system or maybe running out of fuel. I still wonder about the fuel pump. I don't the gauge and fittings to check it. At this point I'm further ahead than I have been for some time. I'll update as I work on it.

More issues with the 2019 Coleman 550. It stopped running again. Long story/short, I checked valves, injector (replaced) plug (replaced 2x with new NGK) checked fuel flow , it eventually started. Ran great for a while, 10 minutes or so. Then it started the spitting and sputtering and not wanting to rev up. When first started it would rev freely (no load) to 6-7K, which was as high as I felt comfortable. Wouldn't go past 4500-5k under load on the road. It gets going and then it cuts out. The drivers seat belt is buckled. The previous time I still had it under warranty, I eventually got it to a shop that removed the in-line fuel filter that had been added and then it ran good. My thought is that the fuel pump may be weak. The other possibility that occurs to me is the cut out/retarder for the seatbelt is malfunctioning. I purchased a CD of the shop manual, but it appears to be for an older model with a carb and not the EFI. Open to hearing thoughts and opinions and which way to proceed. I'm planning on replacing fuel pump and fuel line and getting a (hopefully) better quality injector. I would appreciate any sources (Motorcycle Dr???) for better quality components. I have also been told by a person claiming to be a Hisun tech in a southwestern state that the way to "set" the machines CPU/Brain/whatever you call it, is to hold the gas pedal to floor let it get to it's highest RPM and then shut off ignition. I'm assuming one does this ASAP. Does this sound even remotely correct? I picture a blown engine myself, but I'm an old guy, so...

2019 Coleman Outfitter 550, 160-ish hours. Was driving it slowly and it just slowed down and died. Won't start. Pops once as soon as I start cranking and that's it. I have great blue white spark on the spark tester, jumps 1/2". Changed injector, no joy. Changed plugs to new several times, no joy. Pulled injector power wire and tried ether through air intake after removing air filters- nothing! I do notice if I put my hand over the air intake where the filter goes, I get pressure pushing back at me. Jumped time? Stuck valve? Is there a decompressor on this that could be malfunc? This is the one I've had that was inop for months and months while Coleman tried to find someone to fix it. Warranty is long expired now. I'll never have anything good to say about this thing.

This one indicates red line at 9K. 4k is about 30MPH in hi range. This isn't how it used to perform at all. I've never had it over 40 or maybe 6500 rpm myself, but something is definitely wrong.

Yup, but using a relay with a diode to prevent juice flowing back to the coils is fairly new, and when the relay or diode gets messed up they can back feed juice to the coils and that fries the coils- or so I'm told. A plain old kill switch out of the factory loop seems to be working, just as it did back int he day.

Put in the new plug for the Coleman/Hisun. Got it started. It's still sputtering even at idle and going down the road I get to about 5500 RPM and it's like a rev limiter kicks in. I thought maybe it wasn't getting warm enough so set the pedal to a high idle around 3K for 1/2 a hour. The temp gauge came up one bar, but it didn't change the sputtering. I did get a 30 second video I'll try to pass along later. Got to take a kid Christmas shopping. I hate shopping!

Cliffy, that set up is on a Briggs Vanguard, not the Hisun/Coleman. We just got off on a tangent. The Briggs had the same set up only they used a relay where I use a toggle. Thanks for the thoughts though!

Got the new injector into the Coleman. Fouled the plug out right off. Seems to be putting a crap load of fuel in the cylinder. These things have a choke? The shop manual refers to it, but it's so hard to get to everything I' haven't investigated yet. Picked up 2 new plugs yesterday PM, we'll try it later. Everything seems clear in air intake for those that suggested looking there.