Bret4207

Since I last posted I figured out the O2 sensor seemed to be bad, but the decompression system on the camshaft let go and shot pieces out through the cover! Waiting for space in the garage so I can fish all the metal trash out and put in a new cam and parts.

No, 2019 model. Spent most of 2020 in a shop, that's why it has so few hours on it. Coleman is worthless as far as warranty work goes. Might as well just shorten it to Coleman is worthless!

Someone mention unhooking the O2 sensor on my Hisun/Coleman 550 to see if it affected the no start when warm (even slightly warm) condition. Sure enough, once it cleared the crap out of the cylinder it started repeatedly with no issue! So I figured I'd run some dog food out to the LGD's with the sheep. On the way back I, not doing more than 4-5 mph because the stupid retarder still kicks in regardless of the seatbelt being buckeled, I hear "KAZING!!!" and the engine noise changes and I start getting smoke. Turns out a piece of what I think is the decompression system on the top gear on the timing chain let go and punched a hole in the timing cover. I also discovered, as I suspected, the timing chain is loose as a goose with a good 1" of play inside the case. The tensioner doesn't seem to be doing anything at all. I'm not sure where all the pieces ended up, so I'm going to do some exploratory surgery. What a hunk of crap. We're still paying for this thing, it's got only 176 hours on it. Screwed doesn't begin to describe our condition!

Still trying to figure out my Coleman 550 start issues. I was looking at injectors and I see some with the same applications listed (Coleman Hisun 550) that have 2 holes and other have 4. I don't know which I have now, but does anyone know why this variation exists? At times it seems like I'm not getting enough fuel and I wonder if I'm supposed to have a 4 hole and have 2 hole or maybe the 2 hole has larger orifices to equal the same amount of fuel spray, something like that. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

No fuel sprays out the injector while you crank it? When you have the injector off the furl line and turn the key on you should get a whole bunch of fuel flowing. When the injector hitched up, it shouldn't pass any fuel unless you are cranking it over or if it's running, which obviously it can't do without the injector putting fuel in the engine. I had an inline filter on my 550, but the shop that eventually got it running said the pump didn't have enough guts to push fuel through the restriction of the filter. I dunno, they removed it and it ran. I question the quality of both the fuel pump and the hose they use and I want to replace the hose, and maybe the pump, with better quality stuff.

An update- I pulled the box off so I could access stuff. Checked the valves, both appeared to be at the recommended clearance, forget what that was. Then pulled the injector and checked for fuel spray, got it. Then pulled injector off the fuel line and checked the flow, got lotsa gas fast, no idea on fuel pressure though. Checked spark again and with another new plug- good blue spark. I tried giving it a sniff of ether through the injector hole and she fired. did that a couple times and she certainly seemed to want to run. So I put everything back and gave it a try. She spun and spun and suddenly sounded like she wanted to start, so I kept going and it did! I ran it around for 15-20 minutes and got her well warmed up. I still had that thing where it would get to about 5 or 5500 rpm unload and it would die. It would run up to the 6-7K area with no load (in neutral). I was thinking the fuel pump may be weak or the filter on the pump might be clogged a bit. Got looking around and found "The Motorcycle Doctor"s website. There I found the instructions on how to reset the ECU and injection system. That was "Clean the O2 sensor first and then warm it up good, run the engine up to full throttle for 5 seconds and shut it off at full throttle, wait 15 seconds and restart and drive it around at varying speeds and loads" according to the instructions. I did that and after some spitting and sputtering I was able to run down the road in excess of 40 mph at about 6500 rpm, which I haven't been able to do since it was new! I still get the bogging, like it's either triggering the retarder in the seatbelt system or maybe running out of fuel. I still wonder about the fuel pump. I don't the gauge and fittings to check it. At this point I'm further ahead than I have been for some time. I'll update as I work on it.

An update- I pulled the box off so I could access stuff. Checked the valves, both appeared to be at the recommended clearance, forget what that was. Then pulled the injector and checked for fuel spray, got it. Then pulled injector off the fuel line and checked the flow, got lotsa gas fast, no idea on fuel pressure though. Checked spark again and with another new plug- good blue spark. I tried giving it a sniff of ether through the injector hole and she fired. did that a couple times and she certainly seemed to want to run. So I put everything back and gave it a try. She spun and spun and suddenly sounded like she wanted to start, so I kept going and it did! I ran it around for 15-20 minutes and got her well warmed up. I still had that thing where it would get to about 5 or 5500 rpm unload and it would die. It would run up to the 6-7K area with no load (in neutral). I was thinking the fuel pump may be weak or the filter on the pump might be clogged a bit. Got looking around and found "The Motorcycle Doctor"s website. There I found the instructions on how to reset the ECU and injection system. That was "Clean the O2 sensor first and then warm it up good, run the engine up to full throttle for 5 seconds and shut it off at full throttle, wait 15 seconds and restart and drive it around at varying speeds and loads" according to the instructions. I did that and after some spitting and sputtering I was able to run down the road in excess of 40 mph at about 6500 rpm, which I haven't been able to do since it was new! I still get the bogging, like it's either triggering the retarder in the seatbelt system or maybe running out of fuel. I still wonder about the fuel pump. I don't the gauge and fittings to check it. At this point I'm further ahead than I have been for some time. I'll update as I work on it.

More issues with the 2019 Coleman 550. It stopped running again. Long story/short, I checked valves, injector (replaced) plug (replaced 2x with new NGK) checked fuel flow , it eventually started. Ran great for a while, 10 minutes or so. Then it started the spitting and sputtering and not wanting to rev up. When first started it would rev freely (no load) to 6-7K, which was as high as I felt comfortable. Wouldn't go past 4500-5k under load on the road. It gets going and then it cuts out. The drivers seat belt is buckled. The previous time I still had it under warranty, I eventually got it to a shop that removed the in-line fuel filter that had been added and then it ran good. My thought is that the fuel pump may be weak. The other possibility that occurs to me is the cut out/retarder for the seatbelt is malfunctioning. I purchased a CD of the shop manual, but it appears to be for an older model with a carb and not the EFI. Open to hearing thoughts and opinions and which way to proceed. I'm planning on replacing fuel pump and fuel line and getting a (hopefully) better quality injector. I would appreciate any sources (Motorcycle Dr???) for better quality components. I have also been told by a person claiming to be a Hisun tech in a southwestern state that the way to "set" the machines CPU/Brain/whatever you call it, is to hold the gas pedal to floor let it get to it's highest RPM and then shut off ignition. I'm assuming one does this ASAP. Does this sound even remotely correct? I picture a blown engine myself, but I'm an old guy, so...

2019 Coleman Outfitter 550, 160-ish hours. Was driving it slowly and it just slowed down and died. Won't start. Pops once as soon as I start cranking and that's it. I have great blue white spark on the spark tester, jumps 1/2". Changed injector, no joy. Changed plugs to new several times, no joy. Pulled injector power wire and tried ether through air intake after removing air filters- nothing! I do notice if I put my hand over the air intake where the filter goes, I get pressure pushing back at me. Jumped time? Stuck valve? Is there a decompressor on this that could be malfunc? This is the one I've had that was inop for months and months while Coleman tried to find someone to fix it. Warranty is long expired now. I'll never have anything good to say about this thing.

This one indicates red line at 9K. 4k is about 30MPH in hi range. This isn't how it used to perform at all. I've never had it over 40 or maybe 6500 rpm myself, but something is definitely wrong.

Yup, but using a relay with a diode to prevent juice flowing back to the coils is fairly new, and when the relay or diode gets messed up they can back feed juice to the coils and that fries the coils- or so I'm told. A plain old kill switch out of the factory loop seems to be working, just as it did back int he day.

Put in the new plug for the Coleman/Hisun. Got it started. It's still sputtering even at idle and going down the road I get to about 5500 RPM and it's like a rev limiter kicks in. I thought maybe it wasn't getting warm enough so set the pedal to a high idle around 3K for 1/2 a hour. The temp gauge came up one bar, but it didn't change the sputtering. I did get a 30 second video I'll try to pass along later. Got to take a kid Christmas shopping. I hate shopping!

Cliffy, that set up is on a Briggs Vanguard, not the Hisun/Coleman. We just got off on a tangent. The Briggs had the same set up only they used a relay where I use a toggle. Thanks for the thoughts though!

Got the new injector into the Coleman. Fouled the plug out right off. Seems to be putting a crap load of fuel in the cylinder. These things have a choke? The shop manual refers to it, but it's so hard to get to everything I' haven't investigated yet. Picked up 2 new plugs yesterday PM, we'll try it later. Everything seems clear in air intake for those that suggested looking there.

At this point the 2 coils are not connected to anything but a ho'made kill wire run to a toggle switch and to ground on the engine block. Pulling the shrouding to access the coils involves diassembling both sides of the drive train. I should have cut the shroud horizontally last time I had to do this!

Gotcha. The issue is with determining whether or not, and just where, the diode is and if it's "leaky" as one tech told me. I don't know how a diode can leak, it's all magic to me, but he says it can happen. I initially thought the kill wire was leaky back through the diode, even though it tested good, but now you've given me other places the fault can occur. For me it's figuring out which little solid state, molded doo-hicky is the offending culprit. Why they need multiple relays, and then some of relay numbers don't appear on anyones parts list, is beyond me.

Thank Ben, a lot to think on and digest there!

OT, I know, but the Vanguard problem is rectified. I cleaned up some electrical connectors and I tested the plugs. Had decent fire with a white spark every now and then but I could see the spark on one plug jump to the side pretty often instead of arcing at the tip on the rear side plug. Went to town and picked up the next heat range hotter NGKs. Started right up and ran fine. I'm not sure why a fouled plug(s?) would cause a backfire situation mimicking an out of time/coil issue, but there you have it. I'm counting my blessings as tearing that thing out of the machine is a pain! I'm slowly getting into the Coleman. Figured out how to disconnect the injector and then it started snowing. More today I hope.

Yup, I bypassed that kill wire diode, ran a line direct to ground through a simple toggle switch for a kill. I stupidly used a spade end connector and it came off a couple times. That might have done some coil damage. I should get more than 2-3 hours run time out of a set of coils!

Thanks Ben and others! I'll see what I can do and get back to you. Ben, interesting you mention the larger B+S engines. I have a 23hp Vanguard in a skid steer that eats coils. Have to pull the engine to change them. Traced to a (likely) feed back of power to coils through kill switch system. Bypassed that and went with a simple toggle kill switch and it WAS working fine. But my 18 year old was using it and now it's a no start as in the past. This might be a "Dad only" machine!

Thanks Neil, I have a new injector on the way. I will run the test as suggested before changing anything. One question you all may be willing to comment on- I've heard good things about products from "Motorcylce Doctor" as regards this machine. I see he has injectors at near $70.00 and other places they are down in the $10.00 each category. Does anyone know if the more expensive ones are actually better? Motorcycle Doctor" states his are "Hisun factory" in his ad, but that they've used these in Rhinos or Mules or something and had good luck. I know nothing about them, thoughts?

Thanks for the thoughts Ben. Some of that is well beyond my comfort and knowledge zone, but it gives me a place to start. I did put a new plug in it but that's the one that fouled so bad, it was an NGK number specified in the manual and was the same as the one in it. I'll check the intake side. Getting beyond that and into the sensor testing is a bit beyond my experience level with modern electronics (face it, I'm old) and I would sort of need to see how it's done. If you know of any tutorials, I'd sure appreciate a link. Thanks again for your in depth post!

Thanks for the replies. Yes, I've done the oil change, quite a trick that first time, I got a different style filter wrench that works good at an auto parts store. Found a great deal of RTV type trash floating in the drain oil the first change! QA doesn't seem to be a big thing with the Chinese builders. We keep the drivers seat belt connected all the time. It's worth a check, though it doesn't act the same as when I used to forget to buckle it. FWIW, I was just contacted by Coleman offering to send the machine to another shop 2 hours away. They are trying I guess.

Hi, I have a 2019 Coleman Outfitter 550, purchased from Tractor Supply. I'm told this is a Hisun Sector 550? Is this correct? I've just gotten mine back from a 5 month visit to the warranty shop for a no start condition. After numerous emails with Coleman and calls to the shop, I finally picked it up Saturday before last. It ran, but ran rough. I was assured by the shop owner, who obviously wanted it out of his yard, that "It'll smooth out as you use it." He tells me it had a bad fuse and dirty fuel. I believe he has replaced 3 or 4 injectors on this and we did add an inline fuel filter. We got about 45 minutes of easy run time on it. I'm 60, use it on the farm and don't race it. Now I can barely get it to start. I changed the plug for a brand new NGK same as was in it- no change. In fact when I checked it I found it fairly well fouled and not arcing across the tip, but off the side of the center of the plug to inner plug wall of the threaded portion. The old plug sparked at the gap correctly and it will run. It spits and sputters and won't idle. Acts like a dirty injector to me and I've contacted Coleman again, but I'm looking at probably a 75 mile trip to get it to a better shop. I've read of people cleaning the injectors, but don't know if it's effective. I have good fuel flow from the pump and no water in the gas, which is 91 non-ethanol. I can't understand why the injector would get dirty unless the interior of the factory fuel line is deteriorating at this point. 4 grand is about the max RPM it will turn at this point. It's either fuel or an ignition issue I'd say, and I'm thinking fuel. I've got 45 years of small engine, 2 and 4 cycle, and all sorts of farm/auto engine experience under my belt, but this computer controlled, gas injection stuff is outside my comfort zone. I got this into the warranty place a couple weeks shy of the 1 year warranty expiring 5 months back and don't have much faith in Coleman/Hisun taking much more action. So, where would you all start looking if you were me? New Ebay injector to start or what? I've read you reset the ignition control by holding the gas at max for 3 seconds and shutting the machine off with your foot to the floor. I have a Sector 550 shop manual CD but I'm not seeing that or much else yet. Doesn't matter since it won't wind up that high anyway. ?????