John Taylor

Valve adjustment! Or timing

It probably is one of the rely's . It was my problem. I have been running mine wired on the one good rely. I just have to make sure the headlights are off when I cut it off or the way I have it wired cutting off the switch doesn't cut off the headlights also. They stay on and I have to cut them off with the light switch. For safety I put in a toggle switch that kills everything. Before that I had someone turn on the headlights while I had it parked just about killing my battery. I was lucky it turned over just enough to get me started again. I haven't replaced the rely's yet because I don't know what caused them to go bad suddenly. I think I may have a short somewhere in the wiring. Looks Like I had a rat or squirrel or rat chew some of the wiring. Works and runs well on one rely, but know I'm pushing my luck. My charging system seems to be erratic since though. Sometimes my hour meter works and sometimes not. When it is working my battery is charging when it doesn't battery isn't charging. I hook a battery tender on it when parked and I haven't had problems with the battery cranking as long as the headlights aren't used for to long. At my age I don't do much night driving. Best of luck!! Will be watching for the results in your search of a fix!! John Taylor

A battery tender it the ticket with these Mules. I go several weeks at times without using mine and since I have started using a battery tender, my battery is usually ready to go. My Mule is a 2005 model and am on my third battery. Probably could be only two, but I did replace the original battery after I put my winch on, upgrading to a battery with more reserve amps and cranking amps. I felt the original battery didn't have the amperage to operate my 3500 lb. winch in a hard pull. I just bought a cheap 3/4 amp battery tender (not the name brand) at Tractor Supply on their reduced section. Actually bought every one they had once I saw that they did work. I have one on each of my riding mowers, my tractor, 4 wheeler and my Mule. All work great, unfortunately I haven't seen them since at Tractor Supply. These do not charge a dead battery, just keeps your battery topped off and ready to go. They do not harm the battery in over charging like a higher amperage charger left on does.

No, rear end and engine oil fill isn't the same. Pick up the seat and look for a round plastic plug probably 4 inches around. Pop it out and you will see a dipstick, it has a rubber end, pull it out and that is where you put the engine oil in. The drain plug or plugs are under the engine. You can remove either one and drain the engine oil. You will have to jack the mule up. I put mine on jack stands for better viewing. You will see the oil filer in front of the engine and the oil plug is in the general area to the side or below. I cannot remember at the moment. But, no, engine and rear end oil aren't the same on the Mule. Most of the smaller 4 wheelers are, but not the Mule. Hope you didn't get this to late.

Apparenty bottomed out my Mule and pushed the rear brake line out of place causing it to rub on the bottom of the engine and wear a hole in it. I Looked into buying a new line, but thought the asking price from Kawasaki was very expensive so checked with my auto repair shop. I knew there was a place that they had brake lines specially made for older vehicles that the lines were discontinued. I had a big hold and only a small piece of line holding it together on one side. They said they would not attempt this on an automobile line, actually not legal to braze an auto line, but did braze my Mule line, blew it out and pressure tested it to over 100 lbs. of pressure and was good to go. Put it back on, has been over a year and still holding. Make sure the rubber grummits that hold it in the clips that hold the line in position are in place. I had to make new ones for mine since they had been lost. I cut about 4 inch rubber hose, and split it to go around and made sure they were secured in place. I also zip tied the line in place as another precaution to make sure it stays where it is suppose to. It isn't just a Mule issue, a friend has a Ranger and has torn his brake line apart more then once.

Webserf Your main jet is plugged up. Run Sea Foam in it and it may clear up. If not remove the carb bowl and float needle valve and use a needle or straight pin and clear the main jet.

I bought a 610 Mule used about a year ago. Wife and I really enjoy it and so do our grandkids. I have a hard time using it seems like someone is always riding it. It has been good so far. I changed the battery, was in need of a battery with more reserve power to operate my winch. I have had a starting problem in the past couple of weeks. Sometimes all it does is click when I turn the key and acts like I have a dead or weak battery. Upon checking the battery it is not the battery. I had been using boaster cables and boasting it off with my truck. The last time it did it I was out and no vechile near. I gave the started a wack with my hammer and it turned over. Once home I took the starter apart and all looked almost like new so I cleaned up everything, connections and lubed the bendix and installed it back again. Working so far but not sure my problem is solved. Usually it happens when I have trailered it and no where near home. Will update on this later. John